Baltic Sea 2019 Part 5

Mon 29.07.19 Glücksburg -> Horup Hav

Time/Distance traveled: 5h 48m / 24 nm

The morning begins with calm winds and hazy-hot weather at 23°. But soon it clears up and a light east wind sets in. Time to set sail.

At 08:42 it is fresh and sunny and I cast off the lines. Departure towards Denmark! If the marina in Horuphav is full, the marina guide offers good anchoring spots in the Horup Hav Bay, an elongated sea arm between the Kegnaes Peninsula and the main island of Als, where Sonderborg is also located. At the end of the bay, at a depth of 6m, an anchorage is marked on the map. It is probably well protected, only from the NW direction towards the open side of the bay, there could be rough waves with a NW wind. So why not spend a night in a peaceful anchorage? That's what I thought. Well, things turned out differently...

At 11:48 am, we round the green buoy at the northern tip of Kegnaes and slowly enter the nearly 3 nm long bay. A light wind from ESE blows against us. Ideal conditions for anchoring. Everything looks peaceful and idyllic-rural. At 12:30 pm, the anchor drops at a depth of about 5m and at a safe distance from the shallow areas near the shore. The anchor ball is set, the water is blue and crystal clear, inviting for a swim. But before I can put on my swimming trunks, I get a visit: A harbor porpoise appears and circles the boat. A quite large fellow, almost two meters long. He comes very close to me, dives under the boat, and I quickly jump to the other side to photograph him as he resurfaces. But no luck! He resurfaces somewhere completely different than I expect. This game repeats several times: every time he gets closer to the boat, I lie in wait with the mobile camera. And then he appears, blows air, and disappears again, diving underwater. Still no photo. Finally, I try with video, point the camera in his direction, and let it run. Most of the time in vain, several times I have to stop again, it just takes too long. But once it works, I capture him on video, albeit from a distance. And suddenly, you won't believe it, he shoots out of the water almost vertically behind the boat, almost standing in the air with his whole body length, and then splashes back into the water, like in a dolphin show in Florida. Of course, the camera is off at that moment. Anyway, it all happened too fast. Some boating friends said it was probably a dolphin rather than a porpoise. Whatever it was: It was definitely an amazing experience!

I didn't swim anymore. I didn't want to make a too close acquaintance with such a 'sea monster'. ;-)

In the late afternoon, there is a sudden change in the weather: The wind turns to NW and picks up. Quickly, a rough sea forms and the boat starts to pitch. I have to extend the anchor line so that the anchor still holds. Eventually, it becomes too much for me: I can't stay here overnight like this. So I lift anchor and move over to the marina in Horuphav. At 8:36 pm, we are lying peacefully and securely at the dock. There is no harbor master in sight, but signs in three languages urge you to pay the 'harbor fee' immediately upon arrival at the parking meter. And so we dutifully do. By the way, the cost is equivalent to 28 euros, a record on this trip.

Tue 30.07.19 Horuphav -> Maasholm

Time/Distance traveled: 3h 30m / 20 nm

So, after this short visit to Denmark, it is now time to head back. We should make good progress on the way home in good daily stages. It's a pity, but Denmark won't go anywhere; I'll definitely come back next year. Horuphav was already a small taste. The place doesn't have any special sights, but it is a cute little spot: everything clean and tidy; you get the impression that the residents are competing to have the most beautiful and well-kept front yard. ;-)

Under overcast skies and occasional light rain showers, we leave the harbor, and we set out to cross the Flensburg Fjord. For a small boat like the Marex, it's already a proper 'sea voyage'! The wind blows moderately from the west, no problem for us, even with the motorboat at a slight angle from astern, it still rides well. At 1:10 pm, we pass the LT Schleimünde (for the third time on this trip) and shortly after, we are safely and securely moored again at dock D7 in Maasholm.

The following stages are without any special incidents:

Wed 31.07.19 Maasholm -> Strande

Time/Distance traveled: 3h 30m / 20 nm

Thu 01.08.19 Strande -> NOK Liegestelle Schleuse Gieselau

Time/Distance traveled: 6 nm and 59 km

We pass through the Holtenau lock with several pleasure boats - for me without any waiting time - just briefly moored at the waiting pier on the canal side to pay the canal fees at the parking meter. 12 euros for my boat. After 6.6 hours (according to the engine hour meter), we moor in front of the Gieselau lock.

Fri 02.08.19 Gieselau -> Brunsbüttel -> Cuxhaven

Time/Distance traveled: 6h 12m (according to the hour meter) / 40 km and 17 nm

In typical North German drizzly weather, we depart at 9:00 am from Gieselau and continue the canal journey that has started to feel a bit monotonous. But even the longest canal route eventually comes to an end, and so at 12:40 pm, we dock with some relief at the marina in front of the Brunsbüttel lock. Outside, the tide is still rising, so there is no point in trying to fight against it. We prefer to wait until the ebb current sets in. At 4:00 pm, we pass the lock together with many other pleasure boats, and the 'wild chase' to Cuxhaven begins. It seems like everyone wants to be the first. But soon, the situation has sorted itself out, the big, fast yachts have overtaken me, and I leisurely cruise down the Elbe, always leaving the red buoys to port. Occasionally, I hear on the radio how the watch officer from the control center kindly but firmly instructs other yachts to clear the fairway for the large ships. Well, that's what happens when they navigate with active AIS, they get a warning right away if they think they can sail in the fairway. Just before Cuxhaven, I cross the fairway and drive the rest close to the shore, past the harbor and the Alte Liebe to the marina. At the pier in the current, two ships are 'double banked', I pass close to the outer ship and there I see with what force the ebb current rushes past its side. So I'm warned: be prepared when entering the marina. But it's not a problem. At 7:00 pm, everything is secured in the Cuxhaven Yacht Harbor. Here too, there is a parking meter; no need to wait for the harbor master.

Sat 03.08.19 Cuxhaven -> Bremerhaven

Time/Distance traveled: 7h 42m (according to the hour meter) / 56 nm

Weather: partly cloudy, good visibility, wind northwest 3 to 4

I already know the route from the outward journey. Still, a little shock for me the night before when preparing the chart plotter. I had updated the nv-charts app on my tablet while on the go. Now I wanted to download the new charts for the North Sea, and suddenly all my charts were 'gone'! Disappeared. Directory 'My Charts' was empty. No chance to download them again, the marina Wi-Fi is too weak. I do have the charts on paper, and as a backup, I still have Navionics Europe on an old tablet. Nevertheless, it's a bit silly to sail without a functioning chart plotter. Fortunately, I got into a conversation with a sailor from Nordenham who had already helped me moor in Brunsbüttel. I told him about my mishap and we agreed to sail together in the morning and for me to always follow him. He also wanted to go to the Weser River, to Nordenham. - So we set sail at 7:00 am with the outgoing tide and I always stayed within sight behind him until I could navigate the familiar area of the Outer Weser visually by buoys and overtake him.

After a short wait at the Neuer Hafen lock, I always need some time to clear lines and fenders after passing the lock. During that time, all the other boats were already far away, so I could enjoy my journey relaxed and completely on my own. It's always nice to sail up the Weser with beautiful weather and a light wind from the side. The journey was uneventful, apart from the Greenpeace action at Müller/Brake. 'Activists' had 'decorated' a bulk carrier's side with stupid slogans: 'Climate Crime' was written in huge letters on the hull, and a banner hung from a crane on land, stating that soy imports are killing the climate - or something like that. Well. The water police were on duty with two speedboats, driving back and forth, I don't know what that was supposed to achieve, and on land there were plenty of emergency vehicles with flashing blue lights. I took a photo and continued on.

At the Lesum River, I refueled the diesel tank at the boat fuel station, and at 4:30 pm, Miss Marple was securely back in her home port. The journey was over.

Conclusion:

Even with a relatively small boat like the Marex, it is definitely possible to make such trips to the Baltic Sea. You just have to consider the wind and weather conditions and, if necessary, take one or more days in harbor if the weather doesn't cooperate. And the best part: No locks! (Except for the Kiel Canal and Elbe Lateral Canal, of course!) But otherwise: Smooth sailing!