Huchuy Qosqo

Upon arriving in Cusco, we wanted to acclimatize ourselves before our multi-day trek in the mountains, so we decided to do a lesser-known day hike to Huchuy Qosqo. After extensive research, we booked a guided tour through 'Get your guide' and were surprised when we received a call the night before, asking to meet us for a briefing at our hotel. We were amazed when our guide introduced us to a man in traditional attire, explaining that he was a shaman who would bless us according to ancient customs for our hike the next day. In Andean belief, the mountains are considered sacred, so he began to recite prayers in Quechua and thank Pachamama (Mother Earth) for allowing us to traverse the paths in the Andes. He gave each of us three coca leaves, which we were to return as an offering to Pachamama at the highest point of our hike. It was quite an experience, and we couldn't go wrong with our first major trek.

The next morning, we were picked up at 6:30 am and drove for about an hour and a half, catching glimpses of snow-covered mountains through valleys and villages, until we reached the small village of Tauca (at an altitude of approximately 3800m), where our hike was to begin just beyond a large lake. Slowly, we trekked uphill, going higher and surrounded by sparse vegetation and breathtaking mountain peaks. At the first major pass, we took a moment to catch our breath and admired the small lagoons and wild horses grazing in the distance. We got along very well with our guide Renato (find him on Facebook under Renato Paz Gonzales), who provided us with various information about history and culture, and had an answer for every question I had about the local plant and animal life.

A bit further, and we reached the highest point of the hike at 4230m. Proud of ourselves, we were glad that we had hardly experienced any health problems such as dizziness or headaches at this unfamiliar altitude. We had successfully tackled the first challenge on our multi-day trek in the Andes. We took a break for a snack at this pass to replenish our energy, as hiking at this altitude is more demanding and makes you breathe faster. We agreed to offer our coca leaves to Pachamama at this pass and express gratitude to nature for our journey through the mountains. With thanks and a wish on our lips, we blew our three coca leaves into the fresh Andean air. With a view of our destination, the distant valley, we continued through rugged rocks and endless grasslands. Suddenly, a herd of llamas appeared before us, leisurely grazing on the highland grass. What a picturesque sight, we were immediately captivated by these animals, who also seemed to have several adorable babies. It couldn't get any more Peruvian for our first hike.

Finally, we tore ourselves away from the llamas and began descending slowly towards the valley. We immediately noticed a change in vegetation, and colorful wildflowers, like the vibrant purple lupine, dotted the roadside. After a while, we had a breathtaking view of our actual destination: the Inca ruins of Huchuy Qosqo. They may not be able to compete with Machu Picchu, but we thoroughly enjoyed the untouched nature and the stunning path leading to this impressive structure. Although there are multiple routes to get here, we expected the solitude to end, but apart from the Peruvian selling entrance tickets, there was no human soul in sight. It was truly a very private tour, more than we had hoped for! With a view of the ancient buildings, we hungrily devoured our packed lunch and watched the new residents of Huchuy Qosqo graze: llamas and alpacas. Afterwards, we received some historical information and had a brief tour of the Inca ruins, which were masterfully crafted. The stones were meticulously carved to fit together, eliminating the need for any mortar.

As we continued downhill, we came across a few houses belonging to local people, giving us a glimpse into rural life here, with their llamas, alpacas, sheep, and agriculture.

Now it became challenging again, as we faced a steep one-and-a-half-hour descent of 700m into the lush green valley ahead. Thankfully, Chris had been given hiking poles to protect his knees, but it was still a somewhat slippery journey downhill with all the loose rocks. Along the way, we saw some parrots flying overhead, a large stick insect crossing our path, and even caught a glimpse of a hummingbird. Exhausted yet happy, we arrived at the village of Lamay at 2941m. What a beautiful hike, but we knew we would have muscle soreness the next day!