The Flight of the Vulture

On black wings, the large birds circled above the canyon. The mountain savannah was the home of the turkey vulture, one of seven New World vulture species. The bird had been accompanying me for a few days, as part of the landscape.

On Thursday, I set out on a recommended hike along the Rio Suarez gorge. The small town of Barichara didn't have much to offer besides its picturesque appearance. The Camino Real, an old path to the neighboring village of Guane, promised entertainment. The rocky route led through a landscape straight out of a Wild West movie. The heat shimmered around me, insects chirped, lizards darted, and vultures soared across the hazy blue sky.

After about two hours, I reached Guane, another town perfect for postcards. There, a excursion restaurant offered a particularly beautiful view of the canyon. Absolute silence, only the flight of the black birds provided movement. Despite the peaceful atmosphere, my thoughts kept wandering ... war in Europe.

I couldn't help but think of Franz Kafka's famous diary entry from 1914: "August 2nd. Germany has declared war on Russia. - Swimming lesson in the afternoon."

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On the way back to Barichara, I met another traveler who strongly advised against my plan to take the bus towards the coast. In the run-up to the Colombian parliamentary elections in March, the left-wing guerrilla organization ELN called for protests such as road blockades in the region. I was unsure. A brief research on the website of the Foreign Office confirmed the assessment that bus travel was strongly discouraged. My thoughts were racing. Based on my experiences in Bogota, I avoided unnecessary risks, and I was currently traveling alone.

So, my travel plan needed a major revision. Luckily, domestic flights were very affordable. Therefore, I decided to spend the weekend in Medellin, the country's second largest city. 60 euros for the flight. After four days in the province, I was looking forward to city air.

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When it came to bird identification, I could rely on expertise from the Hebelei.

A somewhat whimsical description of the flight behavior of the turkey vulture can be found on Wikipedia:

"Due to its rather short and wide wings, the turkey vulture flies less majestically than other New World vultures. Fluttering flight alternates with short gliding phases. The turkey vulture is sociable and predominantly feeds on carrion, but occasionally also hunts for prey. As a scavenger, it is often valued as a beneficial creature, but is also seen as a pest by livestock farmers, as it sometimes preys on newborn livestock."