05/02/23

After waking up, we make a fire for a quick breakfast of oatmeal and black tea. The “Colchonetas” (mattresses; cushions) in the refuge resemble more gymnastics mats, not only in terms of appearance, but also in terms of hardness. I do some Stabis on the bathing platform by the lake with a magnificent view.

At 10 o'clock we set off to the most secluded of the three refuges, Refugio Quetrus. There, up to 8 people can spend the night privately, without the presence of rangers. I pack my camera and dictionary. Mati rushes ahead over roots and stones and I struggle to keep up. The infection seems to be not completely gone yet. The path avoids fallen trees or uses them to cross swamps. After about one kilometer, consisting exclusively of steep wooden ladders and stairs leading uphill, I am drenched in sweat. Arriving at the high moor with the helicopter landing platform, the loud croaking of the frogs drowns out the bird chirping. Over the low vegetation of the moor, there is a rewarding view of the peaks of the surrounding mountains, which now appear much closer than down at Laguna Alerces.

On closer inspection, I discover unfamiliar plants everywhere. Mati knows them all and can tell something about each of them (And I even understand most of it) He is studying forestry in Valdivia. Park ranger is his summer job.

Arriving at Refugio Quetrus, we check if everything is relatively clean, if there is enough firewood and if the water is running. The refuge is also located by a lake, which is significantly larger than the one at Refugio Alerces. Instead of dead Alerces tree trunks, this moor lake is dotted with many closely spaced, densely overgrown stone islands.

Here in the higher part of the park, the oldest trees grow. Alerces, about 3000 years old. When standing in front of the thick, red-rust-colored trunk and looking up, you can understand why the Mapuche (indigenous people of this region) consider these trees sacred.

On the way back, we pass by two waterfalls, one very narrow and high (Cascada Flaca) and the other running in many small streams over a wide rock wall (Cascada Grande). My camera battery just lasts long enough to capture it all.

Back at Refugio Alerces, I cook rice and Mati makes a soy-based meat sauce with cream and corn. I shovel a mountain of it into me and feel lethargic. The rest of the day consists of smaller maintenance jobs and reading.