diegretchenfragen
diegretchenfragen
vakantio.de/diegretchenfragen
Zuletzt in Norwegen

Tag 60 & 61 - Ommmm.

Publié: 16.11.2018

Meteora. Hard to believe,that we are really here when we think back to how we -before we even bought Gretchen - looked at pictures ofthis mystical place and knew that one day our journey wouldlead us here.

Often you run the riskof being disappointed in a place after sucha long anticipation and half-knowledge nourishedonly by Google Images. However, the opposite happened inMeteora, because our expectations of what we would seeand also of what we wanted to do here were far exceeded.


Anni in front of the rock backdrop


Meteora offersa backdrop that is second to none. Rock towers upon rock towersin various shapes and heights point skyward close to each other.No wonder it is one of the most visitedplaces in Greece. The massive pillars exert astrange fascination on people and have done so forcenturies. Already in the 11th century, the spiritual atmosphereattracted hermits and monks who sought answers toto life's big questions on the mountain peaks. In the 14th centurythey erected 24 impregnable monasteries on variousrock peaks, despite great sacrifices. Until 1925, steps were carvedinto the rock, and they could only be reachedeither by lowered ladders or rope pulls. Today, the sixstill inhabited monasteries can be reached quite comfortablyon foot.

The monasteries, whichseem to hang almost in the air on the mountain peaks,owe their name to the place: the Greek word "meteoros"means "floating in the air".


View of Agia Triada Monastery


Of the six monasterieswe only visited two and inspected the rest from a "safe"distance.

The Agias Triada Monasteryis the most remote and the most difficult to reach. Someteep steps lead into the interior, even if the ascent isquite limited to about 15 minutes. Film fans may know thebuilding from the James Bond film "For Your Eyes Only".

Since we also wanted to visit one of the twowomen's monasteries, we also went to the Agias Varvaras Rousanou Monastery, where 16 nuns now live. In addition to the beautiful frescoes, the visit was especially worth it because of theunforgettable image of a nun with a smartphone in her hand.Despite some innovations like this, we were able to discover somepower and water cables- here some somewhat outdated rules still apply.As a member of the sinful sex, I was not allowed to enter themonasteries in pants, a ankle-length skirt is required here.Jan had it easier, because for men only shortsare prohibited.



Jan peering into the abyss.


Impressed by the rock formations, we spontaneously decided to stay one more day because we absolutely wanted to climb at least one of the towers ourselves. The fact that Meteora is one of the oldest and most important climbing areas in Greece is evident at first sight, because the massive pillars probably awaken in everyone the irrational desire to be on the summit.

Even before sport climbing was even thought of,hermits and monks, as well as hunters and shepherds withtheir herds, who were pulled up with ropes, climbed the pillars. Theyused simple tools such as ropes and ladders, but the riskwas of course much higher back then (and we complain about the distance between bolts). It is all the moreimpressive that probably as early as 1348a climber ascended the tower "Holy Ghost", which is a full300 meters high. The Serbian emperor at that time wanted a 1.80 meterhigh metal cross on the summit, and this cross actually stood thereuntil the 20th century. Since no traces could be found on the rock anymore, it can be assumed that a brave climber climbed to the summit without any aids and pulled the cross up on a rope. Remarkable, especially since the walls have a continuous difficulty of about 5c!


Several monasteries at a glance


In 1975, modern climbing arrived in Meteora with German climbers, who bolted diligently in a very minimalist style. Within 10 years, over 200 routes were established. From 1990, the Greeks also developed routes - fortunately with more bolts - and the area gained more and more local importance. Greek climbers come here for the weekend like we drive to Franconia.

Today, there are almost 800 sport routes and multi-pitch routes in Meteora, with the latter being more numerous due to the tall towers.


Asenthusiastic sport climbers, we chose Doupiani Rock for our first attempts, one of the smaller rocks with beginner-friendly routes and exceptional protection for multi-pitch routes. We made it to the highestpoint of the pillar via the route "Daedalus" (5c+) with threepitches on 95 meters, and we also climbed "Ostria" (5c).

The Doupiani Tower


Nevertheless,the undertaking was very exciting for us. These were our first multi-pitch routes together, for me even the first onesever. Luckily, everything went well and there could havehardly been a better place for this great new experiencethan this fascinating environment. Not only the unusual lengthand the peculiarities of belaying were something new, but alsogneiss is rarely found elsewhere in Greece.A mixture of pebbles and larger stones is encased in aconcrete-like surface, which leads to a very special way of climbing.

Although in the future we will mainly stick to sport climbing, the feeling of reaching a "real" summit was an exciting change. Besides, since we are climbing at very different levels in sport climbing, it is a nice experience to really achieve a route together and to be more dependent on each other than usual.

Climbing one of the towers in Meteora and enjoying the view is highly recommended to any climber, regardless of whether they are experienced in multi-pitch climbing or not - the view alone and the fact that every route ends on a summit provide an almost meditative climbing feeling. The closer you get to the sky, the more you can empathize with the monks who chose to settle here.


The Varlaam Monastery perched on the cliffs.


Our stay in Meteora was precious because it amazed us and made us try something completely new - something that was further outside our comfort zone than taking cold showers in Gretchen. When you have been on the road for as long as we have now (two months already), the enthusiasm for travel and climbing occasionally wanes. And that's okay, no one can be cheerful and curious for 60 days straight. Everyday life also starts to catch up with you, even in the van.

But when we aimlessly stumbled through the rocks towering towards the sky and finally even climbed one of the peaks, we could feel once again exactly why we embarked on this journey. Of course, it is also about being free and having time for ourselves, for climbing and to see beautiful places. But above all, we want to be present and learn as much as possible, about the countries we travel through, but also about ourselves.

There may be places where this is easier than others. If that is the case, then Meteora and its floating monasteries are among them.


We seek our inner balance.



diegretchenfragenComme une newsletter : chaque nouvel article arrive par e-mail.
Following along?Give “diegretchenfragen” a travel voucherFor a photo book of this trip, real postcards from the road or a year of Premium – with a photo from this post, by email on the day you choose.Give a voucher
Répondre