Bogota on two wheels - History, art, and an explosive national sport

The air in Bogotá is fresh, almost cool, as we leave our Airbnb in the Santa Fe neighborhood early in the morning. The jet lag has pulled us out of bed early, and we are on our way to find a place for our first breakfast in Colombia. The neighborhood is considered very safe, and we enjoy strolling through the still-empty streets. Not far away, we find Café Mundano, a cute café with only two small tables, a display of small Colombian pastries, and deliciously fragrant coffee. We squeeze onto the bench behind the table and enjoy our first breakfast in Bogota. The capital lies at an altitude of 2,640 meters, and the thin Andean air mingles with the bustling atmosphere of the ten million metropolis. As we drink our first Colombian coffee, anticipation for the day rises.
Today, a very special adventure awaits us: a bike tour through Bogotá. A gift from friends for Susi's birthday. We are curious whether our fitness is enough to explore the hilly city on bicycles on our first day at this altitude. Challenge accepted :-)

We take an Uber to 'La Candeleria' to the provider 'Bogota Biketours'. In a beautiful old building, adorned with countless pictures of Colombian artists, we are warmly welcomed, and a suitable mountain bike is quickly found. Our group is initially quite large, but after a brief introduction, it is divided into two smaller groups. Then we are off. Our guide Juan, an energetic little Colombian with seemingly boundless knowledge about his beloved city, leads us through the streets.

We roll through La Candelaria, the historic center of Bogotá. The cobblestone streets are lined with colorful houses adorned with intricate graffiti. The murals are not random scribbles – they tell stories. Stories of social protest, political resistance, and hope. Juan stops repeatedly to explain the significance of the works. Some are portraits of notable figures; others depict symbolic animals or abstract patterns referring to Colombia's indigenous culture.
“Here in Bogotá,” Juan tells us, “graffiti was strictly forbidden in the past. But after a tragic incident in 2011, when a young graffiti artist was shot by the police, everything changed. The city began to see street art as part of its identity. Today, artists from all over the world come to Bogotá to leave their mark here.”

The city has developed into a center for street art, supported by relatively liberal laws and a tolerant attitude toward urban art. The works are expressions of political messages, social critique, and a desire for freedom. Well-known artists like Toxicómano Callejero, Guache, and DJ Lu, whose works often convey powerful messages about justice, identity, and social issues, can be found on the walls here. We are big fans of this art form and could spend much more time marveling at the countless works on the city’s walls. It’s as if the city speaks through its walls.

After a stop at the fruit and vegetable market, where we get to taste local fruits and the fantastic giant avocados, and several stops at famous buildings, monuments, and squares, where we dive deeper into Colombia's history, we head to another stop: a traditional coffee roastery. Colombia is famous for its coffee, but what lies behind the world-renowned export product? We enter a small, fragrant roastery. The intense smell of freshly roasted beans fills the room. A barista greets us with a broad smile and begins to introduce us to the secrets of Colombian coffee. “Colombian coffee is so special because it grows at altitudes between 1,200 and 2,000 meters,” he explains. “The cool climate of the Andes causes the beans to mature more slowly, thus developing their complex aroma.” We learn that each region has its own character – from nutty, chocolatey notes to fruity and floral aromas. Particularly impressive is the traditional processing method: the beans are hand-picked, washed, dried, and finally roasted.
We taste different varieties, learn how to properly perceive the aromas, and let the coffee slowly dissolve on our tongues.

With caffeine in our blood and a new appreciation for Colombia's coffee culture, we continue our tour. We pass impressive buildings and squares that breathe history. We pass the Palacio de Justicia, the modern courthouse at Plaza de Bolívar, a symbol of the Colombian legal system – a place with a tumultuous past where a dramatic attack by the guerrilla group M-19 took place in 1985. Just a few meters further, the imposing Congreso de la República, the Colombian parliament, stands with its classical columns, a stony testament to the democratic development of the country. The Catedral Primada de Colombia, the largest and one of the oldest churches in the country, also rises at the square. Amidst pigeons, flying street vendors, and groups of students, we feel how alive the Colombian capital is. Then we turn back into quieter alleys where city life appears a bit more leisurely. We return to the starting point and return our bikes. But before we say goodbye to our group, something entirely different is on the agenda: a round of 'Tejo' together. Our guide laughs as he explains what it’s about. “This is our national sport – and it’s explosive!” he tells us. Tejo is a mix of bocce and shooting. The aim is to throw a metal projectile, the “Tejo,” at a target filled with gunpowder. If you hit one of the markers filled with explosives, there’s a loud bang – and of course, points. We give it a try. The first throw misses, the second too. But then – a hit! A bang echoes through the room, accompanied by applause and laughter. It’s a game that requires skill but, above all, is a lot of fun.

As the sun sets slowly, our first day in Colombia comes to an end. Full of new impressions, colors, and stories, we settle into a small bar and toast with a cold Club Colombia-Dorada to our first day of the journey. What a great start to our six-month adventure!