Machu Picchu - the arduous path of the Incas

Approximately six months after booking with Alpaca Expeditions, we embark on the historic trail of the Incas to Machu Picchu. The adventure begins the evening before with the Get Together of our tour provider in Cusco. We meet our group (16 tourists) and our two guides, Russell and Angel. We receive a brief introduction to our planned route and are equipped with a duffle bag that we can fill with 4kg of equipment of our choice. After packing, we look forward to the first shower in several days.

At 4:30 am, we are picked up at the hostel and head towards Ollantaytambo, where we have breakfast around 7 am. Here we see the entire crew that is with us for the first time. In addition to the 16 tourists and the two guides, there are 22 men in green uniforms. The 'Green Machine' has a chef, a sous-chef, a leader who organizes the porters, a toilet man, and 18 other porters. After a delicious breakfast, we pack up and start the trek from KM 82. First, of course, there is a mandatory group photo, followed by passport control at the first of three checkpoints. Smaller groups form, exchanging and getting to know each other. Many smaller stops give us the necessary breaks at altitude, and the first day passes by faster than expected with great impressions. We arrive at our first campsite in the early afternoon (because we are SuperHikers). Our porters have overtaken us shortly before and quickly set up the camp. The guys are definitely experienced and easily carry 25 kg uphill and downhill (without shortcuts, without llamas!). Before dinner, we have a brief introduction with Allemann. After dinner, we go straight to our tent as we are plagued by stomachaches and the second day is supposed to be the most challenging.

The next morning, we have the certainty that we have caught something. Bad timing for stomach upset! In the group, there are two Australian doctors who stuff Stephan with a bunch of tablets. We consistently walk as the last group on day 2 (except for Team USA) and just hope to get through the day somehow. Fortunately, there are countless Inca 'toilets' (nature) along the way. ;-) Of course, it is a bit difficult for us to enjoy the views and ruins on day 2. Fortunately, it is cloudy and foggy at altitude (over 4000m), so we don't miss much anyway. After dinner, we have a tea with plenty of rum. That should help!

The third day of hiking is shorter and mostly downhill. Nevertheless, we get up very early so that we can be at the last campsite by lunchtime. We feel a bit better again, but the third German in the group has a relapse. He is found later curled up at an Inca ruin and escorted to the campsite. On day three, we pass great ruins and have incredibly beautiful views of the valleys. When the somewhat cumbersome part of Team USA finally reaches the campsite, there is extra applause and a few tears. Respect! In the dining tent, the secret plan for the last day and the storming of the Sun Gate is revealed. There are about 500 tourists at the campsite in total, and one has to pass one last checkpoint. In the end, our guide Russell holds up a napkin with the time 2:45 am meaningfully.

We have just laid down, and the alarm clock rings, and off we go to the checkpoint. Victory, we are the first group there. Now we have to wait because the checkpoint opens at 5:30 am. Shortly after 3 am, a huge line has formed behind us. When the checkpoint opens for us, we hike/sprint towards the Sun Gate, about 1 hour away. Despite the very high pace, we are overtaken by a more ambitious group. Before reaching the Sun Gate, we have to climb a steep stone staircase, lovingly called Gringokiller Stairs by the locals. Out of breath, we finally arrive at the Sun Gate and ... nothing! An impenetrable wall of fog blocks any view. Don't they have a weather forecast? As we stare into the fog, the other groups gradually join us. After some waiting time, we continue, and even when we reach the first ruins of Machu Picchu, we still cannot make out the overall picture. No wonder even the Spaniards couldn't find Machu Picchu! The sight, when the fog slowly dissipates and reveals the view of the sacred city of the Incas, is priceless. After countless photos and selfies, we descend into the city. On the way, we get a stamp for our passport (can you actually do that officially?). We save the Huayna Picchu (mountain) and stroll through the ruins a bit.

Then we take the bus down to Aguas Calientes and meet the whole group there for our last lunch together. The main food of choice is beer. On the train back to Cusco, our group gets a little reprimand from the staff. Doesn't matter, we celebrate ourselves the whole way back to Cusco and then part ways, slightly intoxicated.

For most people on the trek, Machu Picchu is the ultimate goal, but the journey is definitely the destination. Beautiful landscapes, great views, well-preserved ruins, and an exciting story make the entire trek an experience. Compared to the Lost City Trek (Colombia), the Inca Trail is still the easier and safer hiking trail despite the altitude.