Secretgarden and Secretschoggi
The night in Allihies wasn't very long, actually it was, but there was a little sleep. The next stage today should be Kenmare, around 70 kilometers. That means a good and hearty...


Published: 13.07.2025















The morning holds exactly what the weather app from the Irish weather service promised: gray skies and a high likelihood of rain. After a week of perfect weather, it is naturally very hard to set off, even though we know we are in Ireland. We leave before nine o'clock, hoping that the forecast is right and it won't rain until the afternoon. We follow the Wild Atlantic Way. It rolls wonderfully, the wind is being quite favorable to us. The dark rain clouds can already be seen over the mountains. The EuroVelo route leads through the mountains, but we ride along the Atlantic, so we are not as exposed if it suddenly pours down. We want to at least reach Waterville, about 50 kilometers away, and then see how it goes. The road rises every now and then, but it is manageable. The view over the Atlantic is great. Unfortunately, the colors have changed a bit. The green remains, but blue and sunny yellow seem to be on vacation.
You can tell it is getting more touristy, cars with German license plates are increasing, and there are also more tour buses on the move. Just in time for the start of the rain, we have made it to Waterville. At
PETERSPLACE, a rustic one-man bakery, we find a table and are treated to coffee and scones by Peter. Heavenly. Then we discover rhubarb crumble with whipped cream, and the second round begins. Peter (the baker) asks skeptically if it’s just for Peter or also for Anja. But yes, she can eat just as much as Peter (not the one from the bakery). The bikes get wet for the first time, but we do not. Not far from the bakery is a B&B. Luxury accommodation is advertised. Well, it might sound a bit much for us, but we take it. Wow... we get the best room on the second floor with a view of the sea, which is currently shrouded in fog. A huge room with a small extra room with a porthole like on a ship and two sofas in front to relax. That's exactly what we do. It rains lightly every now and then, but it’s not too bad. Hunger drives us out and curiosity about the village of Waterville with its great beach. The village once surely experienced better times, many houses are for sale, and even the tourist office is closed, and not just since this year. The village advertises that many celebrities have spent vacations here. Well, some of them a long time ago, like Charlie Chaplin, or some not so long ago, like Michael Douglas or Tiger Woods. We eat pizza on the beach in light rain, and the celebrities are currently quite irrelevant to us. The rain increases again, and beautiful sounds come from the pub 'The Lobster': fiddles, accordions... let's go in. The atmosphere is great, and we don’t have to think long about it, a Murphys and an Orchard Thieves Apple Cider. The wonderful Irish music chases away the rain, and around nine in the evening, the sky offers one last spectacle as the sun breaks through.
A wonderful conclusion to a great day with plenty of time to lounge and pause.
Route taken: Templenoe - Waterville
Kilometers: 55
Elevation: 565