Rain Pie

No nightly ghosts in the grand villa, just the grumpy landlord in the morning with black and white pudding. Our breakfast table is right in front of the large window with a view of the ancient giant beech tree and the bay. Unfortunately, there’s not much more to see, as the fog hangs thick over the bay and it’s drizzling incessantly.
We really find it hard to motivate ourselves to head out. The beds are mega comfortable and cozy, and the house ghosts seem to want to keep us trapped in them.
We don’t know yet how far we can get today. The goal is to get off the island of Valentia first. For that, we’ll take the ferry to Renard Point. Before that, we discover a small village shop in Knightstown, and we absolutely need a rain comfort band-aid, which we find in a freshly baked apple pie. We stuff it in Anja’s frame bag. Well, it won’t stay there long anyway...
The ferry usually costs 3 euros per person for bicycles and pedestrians. We get the pity bonus: free ferry for the-two-in-rain-gear-and-also-with-the-bike-out-in-the-storm bonus.
Since the start of our tour, we have rarely encountered cyclists (the ...ers are for Peter... two ladies with long red nails and chain grease on their legs, including huge uncomfortable backpacks. They were probably only out for nice weather Instagram shots and not as bikepackers).
Also, the Irish are hardly cycling, but there are at least two cars in front of every house. The thought of a warm car in the drizzle is quite tempting.
Now it’s time for the apple pie, or else we might start looking online for a rental car.
We are on Eurovelo 1, heading towards Caherciveen. It runs beside the main N70 through quiet villages and huge pastures for cows and sheep. We take a cue from them and bravely ride through the wind and the sporadic rain. However, we don’t want any grass; instead, (finally in Anja’s thoughts) the apple pie comes out of the bag. Actually, we wanted to make coffee with the stove, but no chance in this storm. Juicy apple pie in the parking lot of the N70 - what could be better... well, quite a lot actually, but the pie comes at just the right time, is juicy and mega delicious, and fulfills exactly what it needs to in our brain: sweet satisfaction. The coffee will come later in Glenbeigh at a small bakery. There we will decide how to proceed. The wind hasn’t eased, but at least it’s not raining anymore. We want to look for a place to stay in Killorglin. There are still about 20 kilometers to go. The Eurovelo runs close to the coast, and the view would be beautiful. We discover the Cromane Peninsula - beautiful coastline, where the sea crashes against it and sandy beaches. Maybe we will find somewhere to sleep there. Other than chic houses and Maseratis, nothing to be found. On the return ride in the worst sea headwind with cross gusts, the question arises. Why did we even come here to the island? Anja! You simply liked the roaring sea. Well, now she has to make it back herself. We manage well into the town of Killorglin and find accommodation above Kingston's Pub, which also rents rooms. It’s warm and cozy. We get pasta salads and cheese, along with cider from the supermarket, eat in bed, and are completely satisfied; everything is just as it is.
Route: Valentia Island - Killorglin
Distance: 62 km
Elevation: 630