By Ways and Detours
According to the weather forecast, today is supposed to be the most beautiful day of the week, sunny and rain-free. We no longer believe in the Irish weather app. We just trust...


Published: 25.07.2025
















Weather as usual, curtains open in the morning...ohhhh what's that, blue sky? Eyes closed and open again - still there. Pure joy and at the same time fear that it might not last. Quick breakfast, packing up, and off we go along the EuroVelo route towards the north. It just feels wonderful when the sun is shining. First stop in Doolin. The village is the starting point for the ferries to the 3 Aran Islands. At first, we also wanted to go there, but in summer, no bicycles are transported, and the rest of the year, the crew decides whether they can come along or not. Well, when we see the huge parking lots filled with cars and buses in the small village, we decide to just sit here on the stones and look at the Atlantic - once again in the sunshine. Heading north, the EuroVelo route suddenly veers right and doesn't go along the coastal road. But surely not! We take the coastal road and are rewarded with great views. Lunch break by the sea at 'Burren' mountain with cheese and Doolin bread, which tasted a bit special. It couldn't decide whether it wanted to be a cake or a bread, but also somehow tasted like fish. Regardless, we eat it.
The whole area consists of limestone formations shaped and eroded by wind and water. A few kilometers further in the small village of Fanore, we treat ourselves to an ice cream from the village shop. Here we find everything, between fishing equipment lie potatoes and chocolate. Our ice cream in the sunshine is simply delicious. Yes, the sun is still there - although there are more clouds and wind, but it is still there. Anja jumps once more into the cold Atlantic, perhaps for the last time. Ballyvaughan is today’s final stop at a great B&B with a huge room. The sun has disappeared; we cook ourselves dinner at the picnic area by the sea, noodles, cheese, cheese focaccia. A delight, along with some tea. Here in Ballyvaughn we have to decide how we want to continue. Next Monday we need to be in Cork in the south. It’s 200 kilometers to Cork through the interior of the country. At first, we considered going to Galway and then to Cork by train. Unfortunately, most trains are already booked up, bicycle spots and only a few individual seats, with multiple transfers. Somehow, we have a right trauma from Norway and bicycles on trains, and it’s a weekend and everything is not so simple. We spend several hours in the evening weighing options and searching for trains. Buses don’t take bikes. At least we have tea and homemade cookies from the owner. Frustration sets in, and it nearly overwhelms the thoughts of the beautiful sunny day, but luckily only nearly. Tomorrow we’ll look further, or we just continue through the mountains to Cork....
Route: Cliffs of Moher - Doolin - Ballyvaughan
Kilometers: 48
Elevation: 475
