Published: 22.04.2023
Thursday 13.04.
Today is one of those days where we are very undecided on how to proceed, whether to stay or continue. We decide to take the middle path, which means getting everything ready to leave for the next town with a laundromat, but coming back later. We also need some cash and the fridge is looking rather empty. So, we go and get some money to feed the laundromat, put the smelly laundry in the machine, and 40 minutes later we are already in front of the supermarket to satisfy our cravings. On the way back, we realize that our gas supply is running dangerously low and we urgently need to find a refill. Unfortunately, we have no luck at the first few gas stations. They refuse to fill our gas bottle due to hefty fines. In Italy, it is strictly forbidden to refill camping gas bottles at gas stations for tax reasons. Penalties of up to 5000€ can be imposed. Unfortunately, our Italian connections are not strong enough to convince a gas station attendant to do it anyway. So, we will have to drive on a low flame until we find a place to refill the bottles.
Back at the parking spot, we hang the laundry to dry in 100km/h wind speed, only to fold dry and fresh laundry into the closets after just 30 minutes. As a reward, we have a delicious coffee at our favorite place and the day is almost over.
Friday 14.04.
We have been parking right in front of a giant facility with Pozzelle for more than 4 days and we still haven't managed to take a closer look at them. Today, on our departure day, we finally manage to do so. Pozzelle is a rainwater storage system that was widely used in many places to ensure water supply during the hot summer months. Through the filtration process, it was possible to use it as drinking water. It is a very interesting system that still theoretically works today.
As we are about to leave, we are approached by an elderly man who has worked in Germany for many years, including in Pirna, where Mathennsi comes from. Within seconds, the two find common ground and begin reminiscing about various places around Pirna that they both know. But eventually, even the most pleasant conversation about home comes to an end, and we finally have to leave to complete today's stage.
On the way to Locorotondo, we fill up the motorhome with water and try our luck at various gas stations to solve the gas problem. Even a company that refills household gas bottles and exchanges camping gas bottles cannot or does not want to help us. Apparently, they don't even know where their bottles are refilled. However, an Italian camping gas bottle is of no use to us, as we have a completely different connection. Well, then forget it. We'll find something eventually. Hope dies last, as they say.
Arriving in Locorotondo, we park at the local sports field next to two other campers. The weather looks a bit rainy at the moment, but we dare to go out and explore the old town. After just 15 minutes, we return at a brisk pace and only get slightly wet. It rains heavily for the next few hours and we make ourselves comfortable in the motorhome and enjoy the rainbow.
In the evening, the weather clears up again and we set off again to implement the plan from the afternoon. The old town is really worth seeing with its narrow streets and beautiful buildings. We are a little bit in love with the old town. Back in the motorhome, we have a small game session and then it's time for bed.
Saturday 15.04.
Sunshine and blue skies. Hundi has had enough of lounging around and wants to go out into the green. So, we head out for a nice walk that we have planned using mapsME. Part of the route takes us past small parks and many small plantations with all kinds of trees and plants. We encounter a small sports trail that we partially master very well, but also fail miserably at certain exercises (e.g. pull-ups).
Layla really likes it here and she hops and runs around. Along the way, we also come across Trullis, which are houses with cone-shaped roofs. They were common in this area for a long time and the next town on our list has become a UNESCO World Heritage Site. However, since they are heavily used for tourism there, we decide to crawl under a fence here and take a look at a vacant original Trullo. So, we can save a stop in Alberobello. On the way back, we stop at a model car race track to capture it in pictures for our dear friend Mirko. We then continue to the Agricultural Institute, where a lot of money was invested many years ago. Unfortunately, nothing has happened here for years and at least the botanical garden is just barely holding on. It's a shame. Behind a gate, we discover a beautiful park, the gate is open, so we go in. Uh, sorry... we just crashed a photo shoot... :-) The only ones who find it funny are the two of us though.
Back at the motorhome, we make a plan for the next steps and the washing machine is also running. We drive through the town with Trullis to Acquaviva della Fonti. When we arrive there we are lucky to park right next to an Olympic training center where national competitions are taking place. Unfortunately, it's raining again and we can only guess from the motorhome what's happening in the facilities. In the evening, the weather calms down a bit and Ani takes Hundi out for another little walk. This ends with Mathennsi in a state of great worry and Ani with Hundi relaxed at the competitions. After about 1.5 hours, they both return and Mathennsi is waiting outside the motorhome with a knife in his hand, already extremely worried and imagining the worst stories. When a "I'm just going out with Hundi for a short walk" turns into an almost 2-hour tour...
Sunday 16.04.
Rain, rain, rain
In a small break in the rain, we go to the old town to take a look around. However, it doesn't offer much except for the fact that on Sunday noon, the whole population is out on the streets again. While in Germany everyone is waiting at home for lunch, it's prime time in Italy. Everyone meets to chat, drink coffee, and the children play on the streets. Every inch is explored in a short time, and we make our way back. We briefly visited the stadium where the last competitions are taking place. It starts to rain again. The motorhome will be the focal point of all further activities today. Playing games, reading, crafting, painting, Hundi, movies, coffee, chocolate, wine, and chips - and eventually going to bed. But before that, we check the weather forecast, which doesn't look good for next week.
Monday 17.04.
During our morning coffee, we decide that we've had enough of Apulia and will head to Albania. We book the ferry between breakfast and departure, and off we go to Bari, where our ferry is scheduled to depart at 22:00 today. On the way, we grab some supplies for the crossing and park ourselves in the harbor. There is still plenty of time to explore Bari, and that's exactly what we do. It is a nice city, although a bit too hectic for our taste. We make one last visit to the cafe and then head back to the harbor. We board the ferry around 19:00 and settle into our cabin. It surprises us positively. We were honestly expecting worse. There is even a shower in the room and everything is tip-top. We are thrilled. Eventually, we set sail and we are in bed, listening to the sound of the ship's engines. There is a slight sea swell, but everything is fine.
Hundi is lying in bed with Mathennsi, and Ani has secured the upper bunk.
Tuesday 18.04.
According to the plan, we should arrive in Durres, Albania at 8:00 am. We set our alarm for 7:00 am to enjoy the entrance into the harbor and take some pictures. When the alarm goes off, we are almost already in the harbor and there are the first announcements in languages that none of us understand. One thing is certain, there will be no leisurely morning. A bit sleepy, we pack everything together and have to go straight to the motorhome.
Everything goes smoothly at the border and after a short time, we find ourselves on Albanian soil.
We drive through Durres, a coastal town on the rise, and then through the capital city Tirana, where construction is taking place everywhere and one giant building after another is being built. As we move further inland, the growing disparity becomes apparent. Here, there is no sign of all that. You can understand why everyone here is trying to earn money somehow. Many people are out on the streets, waiting and hoping. At least that's our impression.
The original plan to drive through Albania in one day is quickly thrown overboard. We decide to make a first stop in Lin on Lake Ohrid. During our walk, we meet a couple from Zwickau who are on vacation in Albania and exploring the area with a rental car.
We plan to spend the night in Pogradec. Here too, there is a sense of big changes happening and construction is taking place everywhere. We find a nice quiet parking spot in front of a hotel. Before we can even look, the hotel owner puts a bottle of wine on our table. Delicious Albanian wine.
Wednesday 19.04.
We say goodbye to our kind hosts and make our way to North Macedonia. Border number one turns out to be quite intensive. The Albanian border guards are very thorough with their checks today, and it takes a while before we are allowed to pass. On the way to the North Macedonian border, we pick up two hitchhikers. It turns out that they are from Germany and are on vacation in Albania, wanting to cross the border by rental car. However, this is not possible, so they decide to continue on foot. Now they are sitting with us in the motorhome and we have a lot to talk about and exchange. Alexandra and Philipp initially wanted to go to Ohrid, but then they change their minds and join us.
Our first stop in the new country is Sveti Naum. It is a monastery complex where dogs are naturally not allowed. But we ignore this and hope that there won't be any trouble. It is a great complex that is visited by many, many tourists.
We say goodbye to our short-term travel companions and take a smaller path around the complex. There are a few little treasures to discover here and we are completely alone.
Then we continue to the Bay of Bones. Obviously, there is an admission fee again, but Ani uses all her persuasive skills and we are allowed in for free. So far, we haven't been able to exchange money in Albania or here either. We'll make do for now. It is a mini museum about the former way of life here on the lake, with houses on stilts over the water. However, the rest of the complex is much more attractive, beautifully designed, and in the remains of a Roman fortress, there are seating areas from where you have a fantastic view over the lake.
With sunny travel weather and the best mood, we continue to Ohrid. Here, we park on the outskirts right by Lake Ohrid. An idyllic and beautiful spot. As soon as we park, we head straight to the city. We wander through the old town for a while and Ani, who was here a few years ago, notes that there are now a lot more restaurants and souvenir shops. There will probably be even more, considering that Lake Ohrid and Lake Prespa are already tourist gems for North Macedonia. But for now, there are still enough locals in the old town and it creates a pleasant balance.
We are pretty tired after this exciting day and we soon return to the motorhome and all fall into bed.
Thursday 20.04.
Accompanied by the singing of frogs, we had a peaceful night and when we look out the window, we are greeted by a stray dog with a joyful bark. Ani goes down to the lake with Layla for a moment and comes back with a little pack. It seems to have spread that dog lovers are parking here. While we have coffee, the dogs play outside together, and even when we take a walk through the village, three of them come along. We look up and see that the announced rain is still hanging in the mountains at the moment, but it will probably come at some point. But our plan for today is not affected by that. Back in the motorhome, we have breakfast and then it's time for crafts, reading, and writing the blog. Later, we want to go back to the restaurant for coffee with waffles and internet to upload the blog post. At this point, our new post ends, and Ani, Layla, and Mathennsi say thank you again to everyone who has read this far and who is participating in our adventures.