Sinalunga – where time has fallen asleep

Pienza is known as the pearl of Val d’Orcia. Rightly so. While Montalcino and Montepulciano promote their world-famous wines, Pienza has 'only' the Pecorino – a type of cheese that tastes particularly good because it is made from milk of sheep grazing in Val d’Orcia. The grass there must be exceptionally good.

Good. But if I had to choose a showcase, and had to decide between a world-famous wine and a good cheese, I wouldn't have to think long for once. I believe Pienza does not need to hide behind its neighboring towns. I am in good company with this opinion: the makers of the hit films The English Patient and Gladiator chose Pienza as the location for some key scenes.

This, in turn, seems to act like a magnet for many people. In no other town on our Tuscan tour were there as many tourists as in Pienza. Maneuvering through the narrow streets was nearly impossible. With so much commotion, it was difficult to capture any of that enchanting atmosphere that many visitors – including my father – had raved about.

We took a different route. This morning we had set out for Siena, but wanted to stop at a Lidl to replenish our supplies. The closest one was in Sinalunga – where coincidentally, there is also a free parking spot with all services. So we decided on the spot to stay here overnight and take a closer look at this town with almost 13,000 inhabitants.

What I didn’t know: The place is divided into two parts. Pieve di Sinalunga is located on a small hill, but Sinalunga Paese with its historic old town is perched almost 200 meters higher. Under the blazing sun and 24 degrees, this was no leisurely stroll!

We took it slowly. Very slowly. And in doing so, we discovered amazing things: artistically decorated doors hidden behind ancient walls, delicate clay figures in small flower pots – or just this heavenly, miles-wide view of the countless fields, gardens, and villages of Tuscany.

The untamed power of nature, which has blessed its inhabitants with rich harvests for centuries, can be felt in every corner of this town. Similarly – in stark contrast – the quiet decay of small places off the beaten tourist paths: abandoned houses collapsing, overflowing mailboxes that no one empties anymore, and car wrecks rusting away in some corner. In the cafés or on the large square, one sees almost only elderly people sitting together, probably reminiscing about the good old days – the ones that peacefully fell asleep in their town many years ago.