Serpentine race on a scooter

Porto Santo Stefano is the most significant place on the Monte Argentario peninsula. Everything here is bigger than in Porto Ercole: The harbor has more ships – including ferries to the surrounding islands – numerous restaurants and shops vie for the favor of passersby, and most importantly: The weekly market has twice as many stalls as the one in our neighboring town.

You guessed it! Today was market day in Porto Santo Stefano. There was no question that we had to go there. However, there was one question: How do we get there? Porto Santo Stefano is about 14 kilometers from our campsite – and our campsite manager had warned us about a bike tour. Many hills!

Well, hills are relative. But I know the quality of the rental bikes here – absolutely terrible – and I'm aware of Icke's fitness level, who is almost still ... oh, let's not go there!

So we rented a scooter, a zippy little thing with 125 cc, automatic transmission, and foolproof technology. I can't remember the last time I was on such a vehicle – probably about 40 years ago. Accordingly, I had a lot of respect.

However, Icke's respect was even greater. I had suggested right when we arrived to rent a scooter and explore the island. There was no discussion:

“Way too dangerous. I'm not getting on that. Not a chance!”

It would have been interesting to see what would have happened if I had stood my ground and not ridden. I believe she would have simply taken off alone – and I really didn't want to risk that.

Good thing, too, because the route was challenging. In addition to the announced hills and valleys, there were countless curves – tight, unclear, and not for the faint of heart. On top of that, the traffic: trucks thundered towards us, and even on these roads, we were overtaken and pushed to the side. Thankfully, there were guardrails – behind them were only cliffs, and a hundred meters lower, the shimmering blue of the sea.

How fast the scooter could have actually gone, I don't know. I didn't dare exceed 50 km/h. It was simply too dangerous. And I certainly didn't want to risk an accident – Icke would have never forgiven me if she had missed the market ...

Suggestion for the

closing sentence

(two versions):

1. Factual, guidebook-style:

In the end, we reached the market unharmed – and with an espresso in hand, decided that this island remains an adventure even on two wheels.

2. Poetic, personal:

When we finally parked the scooter at the harbor, the smell of the sea, fish, and fried garlic filled the air – and I knew: This was not just an outing; it was a little piece of freedom on two wheels.