Published: 09.09.2017
On Tuesday morning (22.08.2017), I start in front of a small hut where I could buy some fresh milk the night before. For 2 euros, I get coffee and two langos for breakfast. Then I treat myself to a warm shower and prepare my luggage for departure. By noon, we are ready to continue our journey south. In Oradea, I met two Germans who recommended a visit to the Scărișoara Ice Cave. Due to my unplanned detour to Padiș, the cave is not too far away anymore. The opportunity for a visit seems favorable. After about 2 hours of hiking, in the familiarly beautiful landscape, we take a half-hour break for lunch. We continue along the Gârdișoara River until Casa de Piatră. In the idyllic village, we have a coffee and some cookies before tackling the last kilometers of the day. I set up the camp about 5 km before Gârda de Sus for the night.
Due to the valley location where I positioned my tent the night before, it only makes sense to continue walking on Wednesday around noon. After an hour and a half, we reach Gârda de Sus at around half past one. I park Rango and my luggage in the town center and take a little stroll around the village. Besides two churches, a few bars and pensions, and several small shops, there isn't much to see. So, after replenishing our food supplies and having a small lunch, we set off for the Peștera Ghețarul de la Scărișoara around half past two. According to the signs, we have a two-and-a-half to three-hour hike ahead of us. The marked trail leads us partly uphill before we reach the ice cave shortly after half past four. On the way to the attraction, I am given a cheesy langos that I share with Rango. The chubby one has once again been equipped with his bags for the ascent and has earned a little reward. Right in front of the cave, I have a conversation with the noble donors and am invited to take a cave tour - resistance is futile. Ramona and André are currently taking a small tour of Romania with their tent and enjoying a few days in the area without their daughter. The ice cave is impressive due to its location and sheer size. The entrance to the cave acts as a cold trap for the approximately 75,000 cubic meter ice block, making it the largest of its kind in Europe. The oldest part of the up to 26-meter thick ice has been trapped in the cave for about 3,500 years. After the tour, I buy a paper map - according to unanimous opinion, indispensable in the mountains! I have to decline the invitation for dinner in Scărișoara and the attempt to give me 250RON for the journey. In the evening, I want to go a little further into the mountains (in the opposite direction of Scărișoara) and I can't really get along with money gifts. Nevertheless, we exchange contact information and say goodbye very warmly. We walk a few more kilometers north, passing several small settlements, before setting up the tent and ending the day with the sunset.
Thursday (24th of August 2017) starts relatively early, but very comfortably. The sun doesn't reach the tent until well past eleven, and we continue our journey around half past one. In beautiful weather, we hike for about 4 hours through beautiful nature and cultural landscape until we reach Poiana Horea in the afternoon. There was no shopping opportunity in the nest, nor could I find a coffee. I sweeten my short break with the last chocolate and some cookies before we continue a little further. Not far from the village, at the turnoff to Giurcuța de Sus, I find a promising camping spot. If I estimate the cardinal directions correctly, the first rays of sunshine should tickle the tent fabric a little earlier tomorrow morning...