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Zuletzt in Portugal

To where the rocks cry

Published: 30.07.2026

Drive
Miradouro da Caldeira Negra e da Caldeira Comprida → … → Cana Roca
Fajã Grande, Portugal
Attraction
Cascata da Ribeira do Ferreiro
Fajã Grande, Portugal
Attraction
Miradouro da Caldeira Negra e da Caldeira Comprida
Fajã Grande, Portugal
Attraction
Miradouro Lagoas Rasa e Funda
Fajã Grande, Portugal
Eat
Cana Roca
Pizza · $ · Dinner

Lovingly, a separator wakes us at 8:45 - okay, that's not entirely accurate - Schahaatz has been awake for 5 minutes before the nasty noise.

The night went like this - I've had better ones on this vacation.

Finally, it stopped raining and the sun is coming out. We're taking it easy today. And even though there's no rain forecasted for today - it rains from time to time. Apparently, nothing works here without a rain jacket. But it wouldn't have stayed dry for long with the rain yesterday either. When we rode down the mountain for lunch, a group of hikers was walking down the street, water was running in and out of them; I really felt sorry for them.

Around noon, the clouds break and we set off. Inland, there are some crater lakes to see. The way there is adventurous. A 10% incline pushes our Opel Corsa to its limits. In first gear, at 4000 RPM, we climb the hill at 15 km/h. I was worried we might tip over backward, so I leaned forward just in case. Schahaatz had tried to drive in second gear, but he couldn't even pull a dead fish from the plate - so we went back to first.

From the Miradouro da Caldeira Negra e da Caldeira Comprida, you can look into both crater lakes. The clouds have cleared.

Caldeira Negra e Caldeira Comprida
A short detour to Miradouro Lagoas Rasa e Funda,

then we go to the westernmost point of Europe in Fajã Grande. Those narrow streets make the drive there not easy.

We have to drive through the narrowest street
Cafe at the westernmost point of Europe

Today, the Atlantic is anything but calm.

We had already seen them from afar on the way to Fajã Grande - the Cascata da Ribeira do Ferreiro.

From the parking lot, there’s a path paved with stones leading uphill. Since it poured yesterday like crazy, the path is quite slippery in places. Going up is not that bad, but I'm dreading the return trip. But for now, let's focus on going up.

Because of the rain and now shining sun, it feels like the subtropics here.

The exhausting effort is rewarded with a fantastic spot.

I could sit here for hours watching the waterfalls - it's so meditative.

I don't want to move away from this place at all, but we have to brave the descent at some point. On the way up, I was sweating down my face from effort; now it's from fear. I'm just glad we have the sticks. I find it remarkable how some people can walk the path in flip-flops. Well, I'm no benchmark (🧐 is that spelled with 3 s's?) I can't even walk straight with those things.

Today we are smart; we plan to stop at a restaurant on the way back to the apartment because we don't want a repeat of yesterday's drama. And if you're already out and about, it just makes sense.

We choose a pizzeria, Cana Roca.

We actually wanted to go there yesterday, but after not finding an open (4 total) and available (0 without reservation) restaurant in the island's capital, the rain forced us to turn back.

At 6:00 PM today, we are the only guests here. The pizza is super delicious.


At a glance

Automatically extracted from the post
Length of time
1 Day
Weather
Summer
Accompaniment
For two (2)
RelaxingAdventurous
  • Miradouro da Caldeira Negra e da Caldeira Comprida
  • Miradouro Lagoas Rasa e Funda
  • Fajã Grande
  • Cascata da Ribeira do Ferreiro
  • Pizzeria Cana Roca
RegenjackeStöcke
NatureRoad tripEat
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Answer

Portugal
Travel reports Portugal