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Week of decision and departure into adventure

Published: 11.12.2021

In the end, it turned out differently again. Shortly after I decided to visit the Chinese-Australian family in Tenerife, I received another message from a certain Reda, who seems to be a middle-aged sailing lady with sunglasses according to her picture.

To consider this possibility, I decided to drive back to Las Palmas on the same evening to meet her and the skipper.

At the same time, Amy instructed me in a telegram style not to come, as the plans had changed and I would be informed tonight.

I was a bit confused, but wanted to wait and see what would happen. Internally, I considered that it might not work out, which increased the significance of meeting Reda.

I arranged to meet her at the Sailors Bar at the marina. I also met a tanned, British man of advanced age next to her. Lean, but looking robust. His intensity and his face remind me of Captain Barbossa from Pirates of the Caribbean. Serious, but with many laughter lines. He knows what he wants. Structured, he asks his questions. He will be the one who would sail alone with me to Antigua. Reda, his wife, and their daughter were originally planning to cross the Atlantic with him. But now their Lithuanian mother is sick and has not been visited in two years. This means they will be in Lithuania for Christmas and Chris, the skipper, should not be alone for three weeks. Even though he would confidently take the trip alone. But it doesn't have to be that way and he appreciates company. He wants someone he can rely on, who will ask him in case of doubt, rather than someone who already has a lot of experience and then does his own thing. Chris has been sailing for 37 years, but has never crossed the Atlantic. He passionately describes how Columbus and Humboldt also chose this route on their historical milestones. In general, Chris seems to like to explain a lot: the history of sailing, how the entry into Antigua works, what preparations I should make, how Brexit has limited his freedom of travel...

He is also interested in my life and is excited about the potential of circus pedagogy, for example.

His wife, Reda, seems happy to have found someone who gets along well with her partner and keeps an eye on him. Chris also emphasizes how well I presented myself. In my opinion, I was rather reserved. When we say goodbye, I am satisfied to have this possibility in my pocket. But I'm not completely convinced. Nevertheless, I agree to meet for a coffee on the boat the next morning. The more impressions I get, the more differentiated my image becomes and my decision may be more informed.

I completely forgot to look at the clock, miss the last bus, and wait until 12:30 am at the bus station to go back to the mountains. But I'm on the phone with Merlin and feel in good company.

The next morning (7.12.), after a yoga session with a view of the mountains, I pack my things. Today, I will leave the Camino Art Hostel. It has become a place where I felt safe and could find peace. I will remember the people here and the atmosphere.

Goodbye Camino Art Hostel

Then I get on the bus again and ponder my options for moving forward. I still haven't heard back from Amy & Chang, so I follow up with them. Chris was nice, but his way of speaking was quite dominant. Both Reda and I were interrupted frequently, which leaves me doubtful. On the other hand, I would definitely learn a lot if it's just the two of us. Sailing across the Atlantic would affect me even more than if there were five of us on the boat. Besides, I would be able to get back on track more quickly and not return to this state of uncertainty. It would benefit my schedule.

But then I think of Rene, Joline, and the kids again. If I were to decide based on my gut feeling, I would go with them. Suddenly, this approach feels right to me. Even though all my concerns and plans regarding the purpose of my journey speak against it - the self-determination and autonomy to be able to go and stay as it feels right for me. On impulse, I send Rene a message. I suggest the possibility of sailing with them and emphasize my wish to have free hours. I don't want to be a full-time nanny.

The response comes quickly. They had hoped that I would get in touch again and say that I can definitely have one or two days a week for myself. Everyone should have fun.

At first, I am surprised and happy. Then I feel a sense of restriction. I think about how to get from French Guiana to Colombia and realize that it is far and there is a lot of jungle in between. Flying would be the only option if I don't want to arrive in Colombia in March.

I am totally confused. I don't know what I want. Making progress, being relaxed, traveling with people I feel comfortable with, being able to let go when it's not the case. I get off the bus at the marina and don't know what to answer Rene. And whether I should continue to Chris for the second, possibly binding meeting.

I sit on a bench between the street and the harbor beach and eat some of the boiled eggs that I cooked in the hostel in the morning. It fills something in me and calms me down a bit.

Then I go to Ponton K in the marina of Las Palmas. Chris opens the gate for me and we stroll along the pier with all the sailboats to the Amaryllis - a Sun Fizz Jeanneau with a length of 12.30 meters. Chris helps me onto the boat and we sit on the opposite benches around the "cockpit" for a moment. This is where the boat is steered and kept watch. Chris shows me the different autopilots, which are oriented differently depending on the current wind direction and coordinates. Then he demonstrates different sails on the deck and explains the safety precautions to me. For example, there is a strap on the life jackets that we will wear on deck and that we can attach to a strap on the boat.

Before we go downstairs to the belly of the ship to meet Reda and her daughter Monika, we sit outside for quite a while, being served black tea with milk and cookies by Monika, and talk about the planned crossing. Chris says that once I move onto the boat, it will be our boat. He gives me a lot of say and participation. I like that. Inside, the tour continues through the cabins, storage spaces, the rocking stove, the water and power system, and much more. After four hours on the boat, I feel quite full. At the same time, I can imagine traveling together with Chris and I agree to join him. However, I still reserve the possibility of canceling. We will depart on Saturday. I will probably move onto the boat on Friday morning. We will go shopping, stow everything away, and prepare the boat.

So for now, I'm heading towards the city center of Las Palmas. There should be a cool hostel there. I didn't find anything affordable in Las Palmas online, so I go to the trendy LuaLuaHostel. Unfortunately, they are fully booked, but I get the address of a few alternatives. Then I remember the place where I want to go to Ecstatic Dance tomorrow. Someone from the Camino Art Hostel told me about it, and I signed up right away. It takes place at Hostel Soledad Big Waves - a picture-perfect surf hostel slightly west of Las Palmas. I reach Nici, the manager of the hostel, by phone and can spontaneously stay for two to three days. She speaks German, as does almost everyone else in this hostel, as I will later find out. But I still have two hours until my arrival because Nici is going to a communal meditation first and can check me in afterwards.

It's perfect for me because it gives me a window to jump into the sea. I walk to Playa de Canteras on the other side of the city. I've never been here before, and unlike the beach at the marina, where the "sea" is still and boats are anchored as far as the eye can see, the ocean here is alive and natural. There is a reef, and I swim through the darkness. I let myself be carried by the saltwater with my eyes closed.

Outside on the beach, I move around wildly, so that people on the promenade above start to stop and watch. I continue until I'm completely exhausted and then start looking for the right bus to El Pagador, where the surf hostel is located.

The people there are all very nice, interested, sporty, and cool. And German. I don't stay in the common room with high walls with exposed brick, the chill-out area with antique seating, and all the surfboards lined up on the wall for long. I'm very tired and need rest.

Soledad Big Waves

The next day (8.12.), I sleep in and spontaneously decide to join the daily surf lesson. There are six students and two teachers, and we drive to Playa de la Laja by car. It's fun, and I even have a real run in between. Then we drive back, and I rest for a while before the Ecstatic Dance on the rooftop terrace begins.

Even DJ Javi comes for the dance performance, influencing the atmosphere in the style of Ritmos del Sur. The structure of his set is completely in line with the classic dramaturgy of a theater play. There are about 15 people, and even though we all wear headphones, a common energy develops over time, in which I feel very free and powerful.

Ecstatic Dance between the ocean and the mountains

Now I will shorten the rest a bit because I am already on the ship on my way to Antigua and I don't know how long my connection will last.

The day after, I have another completely unplanned day and meet Marietta, a hostel acquaintance from the Camino Art Hostel in Agaete because there are naturally formed pools there. Although it is quite chilly, we go swimming. I also receive an offer from a Wolfgang to sail with him and two other women from Tenerife. We have a short Skype call. It's nice, but also very tight and I don't feel much interest. I discuss the situation with Marietta again.

The spectacular pools

In the meantime, Chang & Amy canceled on me because the ship had an accident and needs to be repaired. Amy seems very scared, and for now, this situation is ruled out for me.

I cancel with René & Joline after the meeting with Chris. It doesn't feel like my original mission.

I will also cancel with Peter & Irene because they will still be in the harbor for a long time, and I don't want to arrive in the Caribbean so late.

Marietta asks me how it would be if Wolfgang and co canceled on me. I realize that it would be totally okay for me.

So Christopher May remains. I decide to sail with him. There is still a part of me that feels uneasy. But I see it as a challenge not to be too influenced by his elaborate stories. And maybe, I am particularly sensitive after my first experience. Otherwise, I see a lot of potential: I can exercise on the boat (Chris is a former professional skier and kayaker), I am involved in decisions, e.g. regarding shopping, he really wants me to be there, and the departure won't be long in coming. I imagine lots of togetherness on the ocean and tranquility.

So on Friday, I move onto the Amaryllis. Chris is a bit sad because his partner Reda left in the morning. We go shopping together, stow everything away, and have dinner together.

Our shopping for the next three weeks

Then we go to the Sailors Bar. They have wifi, and I can download the Iridium app. So even on the way, I will have an internet connection of 5 KB per second. With the app, that's enough to send text messages.

You can reach me on this page for important occasions.

https://www.predictwind.com/iridium-free-sms/

The number is:

881651442967.

If I should write a text message, DO NOT reply directly as an SMS, but through the website. Otherwise, it will be very expensive.

In addition, you can track our route live:

https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/SV_Amaryllis/

On Saturday, December 11, 2021, at 10:30 a.m., Chris and I will depart from Las Palmas with the destination Antigua. We will probably arrive around December 30, 2021. But of course, wind, weather, and waves cannot be predicted, so the next adventure begins here.


The whole crew + Captain


Cast off and off we go!
I can't see land right now


I wish everyone a very Merry Christmas! See you soon :)


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