Published: 05.09.2016
From Marius' perspective
The Santa Cruz Trek is a four-day hike in Huarascan National Park. It is considered one of the most beautiful treks in the world and is a good choice since we are already in Huaraz. However, we don't want to do it like most people do, with guides and mules to carry our gear. Instead, we want to carry our own equipment to gain more freedom.
While looking for an affordable way to get to the starting point of the Santa Cruz Trek, we meet Vera and Iris, two Austrians who also want to do the trek independently. We join forces to save on transportation costs and split food better. We leave on Sunday, August 28th at 6 a.m. with the Collectivo to Yungai. After about 1.5 cramped hours in a minibus, we reach the local bus station and change buses. We continue for another two hours on bumpy roads up to the national park. Finally, we reach the starting point Vaccaria, with our spines thanking us ;) (Max had to sit on a wooden stool). After a breakfast break and a group photo with the local children who are completely fascinated by sunglasses, we load up our backpacks, which weigh about 15kg, and start hiking. Full of excitement, we walk down a long wide path into the valley. Luckily, a motorbike rider coming towards us informs us that we are completely off track. So, we have to hike all the way back up. Finally on the right path, we walk through small mountain villages with very friendly people. Then, we proceed through a wide valley and finally, I see my first alpaca!!! In the horizon, I can already see the first snow-capped mountains reaching 6000 meters. We set up our first camp by the river at around 3900m. Now, our equipment comes into use. The tent, sleeping pad, and sleeping bag are quickly set up, and the water filter (Lifestraw Mission) provides us with clean water from the river. I'm relieved to have the filter with me, as all the valleys are full of cows and therefore full of natural fertilizer. After a quickly prepared dinner, there is some time left to watch the night sky before going to bed around 9 p.m.
From Max's perspective:
Day X... today is the day! Today, we make history. This excitement fills my body as I lie in bed at 5 a.m., waiting for the alarm to ring. Finally, 5:30! We get up, brush our teeth, get ready, and start walking to the starting point, where the Collectivos (mini-buses) go to Yungay. After about 2 hours of driving, we reach the town. Once we arrive, we get on another Collectivo to Vaqueria. With the luggage safely packed on the roof, we continue on the gravel mountain road for about 2 hours to the starting point of our track. If the Collectivo hadn't been so overcrowded and the road hadn't been filled with potholes and gravel, it could have been a wonderful start to the day, with a wonderful panoramic view of the first mountains. Instead, I longed for the moment when the taxi finally stopped. Finally, we reach the starting point! Once there, we unload the luggage from the roof of the Collectivo. After a wonderful breakfast (bread with eggs) and some joking around with two local children and a starting photo, we finally start the Santa Cruz trek! An incredible feeling! Full of motivation, we start the tour. After the first descent on a dirt road, we reach a gravel road that we use to navigate further. After about 2 hours of hiking, a motorcyclist is coming towards us. He asks us where we are going and we tell him that we are doing the Santa Cruz Track. To our horror, we realize that we are going the wrong way... Damn it!!! So, we have to go back, uphill! For the first time, we feel the weight of the backpacks! Packed with food, drinks, the tent, and a first aid kit, the backpacks easily weigh 15kg each! After about 1.5 hours of detour, we finally reach the correct path of the track. Still full of excitement, the rest of the uphill path feels easy and I enjoy the scenery through villages, valleys, rocky landscapes, and steppes surrounded by mighty mountain ranges, with plenty of wild cows, llamas, and donkeys. We continue towards Camp #1. Vera, one of the two Austrian companions trekking with us, imagines carrying my backpack! As a gentleman (xD), I gladly fulfill her wish :-D Full of motivation, she strides ahead towards sleeping spot #1. Just before dark, we finally reach the campsite where we set up the tents. We cook together and then it's time to hit the sack... I mean, sleeping bags J