Bariloche

My first stop in Argentina. And I couldn't have picked a better place!!

I had to overcome some reluctance to write Couchsurfing requests, as I was a bit frustrated with some rejections in Chile and also the first time traveling alone. (Couchsurfing is a website that helps you stay for free with other travel enthusiasts/open-minded people from the region. I've had great experiences with it in England and Scandinavia as well)

But then a couple with a small child found me at short notice and I didn't want to leave anymore.

It takes 6 hours by bus from Puerto Varas to Bariloche. The bus stops at both borders, where everyone has to get off to get their entry and exit stamps in their passport, and luckily I could even exchange money there. In Bariloche, I had to continue with a small bus to km '13,500' of the long road. Unfortunately, the bus driver forgot to tell me when to get off, and I was too late to ask him if he remembered my request. So I ended up sitting twice the distance until we passed the right place on the way back. Of course, he felt very sorry, but it was no problem at all, because I got a tour with an incredibly beautiful view. More distance for the same price - my Swabian heart is happy :D

I found the pink house right away, where Valeria and German were waiting a bit worried.

The two of them have been traveling for years, working wherever they are and currently living in the house (or rather, half of the house) of a friend who is traveling. Since they arrived in the world, they have been living in Bariloche but eventually want to continue traveling with him.

These are the 3 of them:

Their half of the house consists only of a living room, which is connected to the kitchen through a bar, the bathroom, and a small bedroom. My mattress found its place in a corner of the living room at night, where Neuhen's play corner was during the day. It was unusual not to have my own 'place' and to always pack my things back into the backpack, but it was totally okay because I felt so comfortable there. Besides, the three of them ideally have the same rhythm as me, with long sleeping and going to bed late (since German works in a restaurant). So I could always sleep in before slowly tidying up my things when the others got up. It was wonderful not to be the one who always sleeps so long!

And my little corner at night was really cozy, with this view towards the rest of the room:

On the same evening, the two of them offered me to stay longer if I wanted to. Actually, when I arrived on Wednesday, April 19th, I had already booked my onward journey for Friday, but the offer was too tempting, so I went to the terminal the next day and booked a bus for Monday.

On the first evening, they made pizza for all of us. I couldn't bring myself to say that I actually can't tolerate wheat flour. The pizza was so delicious, I was so tired of always needing special treatment, and I was too tired to go out again on that day and buy things that I can eat without problems. Once I started, it was too late, and so I spent the days with headaches, but in beautiful company while eating. Of course, I was included in all meals. Sometimes there were empanadas (filled pastries - typical in Chile and Argentina and very delicious), sometimes grilled chicken with fries and salad (by the way, chicken is not considered meat here :D ), even sushi once, and on the last evening, Milanesa, something typical Argentine, even though the name comes from Milan. Just like the pizza is typical because Argentina is an immigrant country and therefore also influenced a lot by Italy. Milanesa is breaded meat, baked with ham and cheese. Mmmmmmh

I'm still pretty unsure about what the right amount is to accept hospitality and give back enough. But that's also so relative, and I will probably get more of a feeling for it. There is a completely different understanding of sharing here. But I think they were very happy with what I cooked in between and also that I played a lot with Neuhen (who is such a happy and lovely child!)

On the second day, I made my famous chocolate cake. There are no ground almonds here, but I took matters into my own hands: in Castro, we simply chopped the almonds into small pieces, and Valeria was even faster with a hammer than I was with a knife:

That evening we had risotto, which the neighbor (who comes over every day for mate) had cooked and brought over. Together with his friends and one of Valeria's friends, we ate at our place. The cake was praised, of course, and even nicely decorated:

On another day, I made cheese spaetzle, as I had learned how to scrape them with a board from Pati in Santiago. I had to use wheat flour for this too, but the enthusiasm of the two of them was worth it, and even little Neuhen happily munched along.

I also made potato salad once, but I wasn't really satisfied with it. Probably because I used a different vinegar..

Then there's mate. At first, I thought it was a bit of an exaggerated cliché, but it's true: in Argentina, people drink mate tea. All the time. Even as small children. Everywhere you see people with the typical metal cup. It contains the herbs of the tea and a metal straw, which has a sieve at the bottom. The whole thing is then poured with hot water from the thermos flask carried along, passed on to someone who drinks it empty in a few sips, and handed back to the 'pourer', who fills it up for the next person. In our culture, for hygiene reasons, we would be shocked and never give an energizing green tea to a small child. But here it's normal, strengthens the immune system, and that's probably why everyone has so much energy. I just can't handle the temperature. I need five times as long to drink a cup without getting completely burned. Right after my arrival, I was allowed to try it, and Valeria proudly posted the picture of my first mate on Facebook. I don't find it very flattering, I'm a bit wrinkled from the journey, but I don't want to keep it from you:

To further advance my mate career, Valeria took me on a trip to a beautiful lake nearby on the second day. There we drank mate, ate cookies with it, withstood the cold wind, and were accompanied by a dog that got a cookie and then buried it between the pebbles as a supply.

On another day, we all went to another lake to have a picnic with the leftover pizza. Of course, mate was not to be missed, and Neuhen explored the rocks with his dad.

I think German and Valeria are so great with him. That's why he's so balanced. In general, I have the feeling that people here have a more natural way of dealing with their children. Even on long bus rides, parents who have a child with them simply have much more fun with them. No panicky 'shhhh behave!!' and don't attract attention.. If a child cries, that's okay too. And it seems to me, at least with these two, that the division of who takes care of them is much more evenly distributed. Taking turns is completely natural. Also with the couple who came for the risotto and also had a small child. Or that Neuhen can just play with most things, like the empty pizza tray, I think that's great. Why not?

I made peace with the street dogs here. While in Santiago all the dogs were totally chilled, in Castro I was often barked at quite aggressively and preferred not to go into some streets at all. Since I often got very scared, I have actually developed a fear of dogs. So the first few times were tough for me when I left or returned to the house in Bariloche and a whole pack of dogs jumped towards me. But they were so friendly that I learned to deal with it somewhat.

One evening, Valeria took me to a friend's birthday party at a bar. Whether I can have a conversation in Spanish or not really depends on the people. For example, Paula, who was also there for the risotto, speaks very clearly and can patiently listen. Then I can have a proper conversation. Valeria and German are also very grateful conversation partners. Since they have traveled so much, they can speak slowly and clearly, and also German is great at explaining language differences to me when I ask, for example, when to use 'lindo, bonito, or hermoso' or 'bastante and suficiente' where my translator gives me the same result.

Only annoying are people who then think they need to start speaking bad English and make me feel like they think I don't understand the simplest sentences (because their English doesn't allow for more). One such girl was at the birthday party, she really drove me crazy, but she was also pretty drunk and very annoying for the others.. Everyone else warmly welcomed me into the group.

On the last day, we had a picnic at a river nearby. We took bread with cheese and ham. I really have to think of something wheat-free for such trips. There are gluten-free things here, but they are very expensive and usually not so tasty. And most people have never heard of spelt.. But on this day, I ignored my complaints and simply enjoyed eating as uncomplicatedly as everyone else.