Chañaral - At home with a fisher family

We made it and arrived at Veronica and her husband's, the Pescador (fisher), place! The taxi driver actually knew them and took us to the mostly deserted bay in Pan de Azúcar National Park. However, things are hot at the pier right now because the fishers (who are also divers to shoot fish with harpoons and collect seafood) are returning from their catch in their small colorful boats. There's a smell of fish and salty sea in the air, and we watch eagerly as the fish and shellfish are taken out of the boats and hung up. Any parts that cannot be used are fed to the pelicans and seagulls, who are just a few meters away, hoping for their daily meal without hunting. Veronica's husband arrives with the next boat, his long dreadlocks hidden under a large hat.

We will be staying with them - along with Veronica's sister, who is currently visiting - in their small hut for the next 3 nights. The sleeping-living-dining room and kitchen are all in one, but there is a small separate room with two beds. Perfect, everything we need! Showering is a bit exciting because due to the weak water pressure from the shower, you heat up a large pot of water on the gas stove and fill it together with cold water into a cup, which you then pour over your body. It's a bit more complicated than using a shower, but the water is definitely warm :D That's all there is in the house, but it can't be any bigger anyway, that's the regulations of the national park. There are about 15 of these huts here, one for each fisher. However, only a total of 5 people live permanently here, the others live in Chañaral, 25km away (that's also where the fish is sold), and only come during the day to work.

In the following days, we relax on the terrace and watch the sea, hike to a viewpoint, and lastly, when the mostly cloudy sky clears up, we spend an afternoon on a deserted beach. Jan even dares to get into the cold water! In the evening, we lie down on the cold sand and observe the fantastic, almost completely light-pollution-free starry sky! The first time on our trip that we can do this, as we were always in a city or the full moon illuminated everything.

It's really nice here, which is also thanks to the food: The fish is incredibly delicious, it couldn't be fresher. Caught during the day, hung outside on the terrace to bleed in the afternoon, and on the plate in the evening. Even the shellfish taste delicious to us! This is a different empanada filling: shellfish, olives, and cheese. Mmmh! We definitely don't lack food here, even though we're glad to have brought our own muesli so that we don't have to eat the cardboard-like bread for breakfast ;)

At this moment, on our last evening, we also experience what it was like here until 2 years ago without solar power (and therefore without a refrigerator, television, and light (order according to priority)): A power outage! Here again, our headlamps come in handy! (Thanks again to Simon at this point!) With great effort, the old generator is started to keep the many fish fresh in the refrigerator. The house is filled with the smell of gasoline, and there is a constant clattering in the background. Accompanied by gentle guitar tones (yes, there is actually a guitar for Jan!) and the smacking sound of a white cat, who has found herself a fresh severed fish head right next to us as her dinner. Buen Provecho!

Small addition: After several interruptions, the generator has been stable for at least 10 minutes now, and the television could be connected! What a relief, a life without bad soap operas seems unimaginable here anymore! :D And when the toilet flush also fails, it's time for us to continue our journey :)