Published: 29.10.2018
This morning a gentle breeze blew through the rather upscale neighborhood of Las Condes where my hotel is located. Along the main street, there are stylish glass palaces of banks, and behind them are snow-covered mountains. A residential street with beautiful houses - not villas, but many roses blooming and smelling, magnificent bougainvillea, alarm systems everywhere, gardeners at work, housemaids going to work. You can also tell the prosperity by the cars. The green strip between the sidewalk and the road is very well maintained, and I found the reason: small nozzles of an automatic irrigation system are only visible upon close examination.
Of course, first to the center. No problem thanks to the modern metro. Here you can get the rechargeable BiP card. When I leave the metro station 'Universidad de Chile', there are crowds of people. A pedestrian area, shoeshine stands with customers reading newspapers - I wear sandals because it's really pleasantly warm. It smells like fresh pastries.
The center is called Plaza de Armas. A rectangular square that is exceptionally beautiful in several ways. Palm trees of different kinds. A fountain with Simon Bolivar, the Liberator. A photographer offers his services. Many people sit on the many comfortable wooden and stone benches. They take their time. Seeing and being seen (quote from Ovid). The buildings around are very harmonious, even though they are from different eras: baroque influences from the 18th century, classicism, colonial architecture. Everything is somehow very clean (except for the pigeon droppings). A lot of police presence, the Carabineros. Later there is a parade - formation - short commands. I'm curious if a demonstration will start, but nothing of the sort. Prostitutes and dealers seem to offer their services not quite inconspicuously - despite the police presence. I seem to be reading my travel guide with concentration and observe clear negotiation conversations out of the corner of my eye. There is laughter, groups form and disperse again. I continue to stroll. Unfortunately, the museums are closed today (Monday). The cathedral is open. Just like in Buenos Aires, there is classical architecture here, but with baroque elements. Inside, it is very beautifully designed. I take a seat and let everything sink in. Stained glass windows in the Munich style, I read. German craftsmen also contributed to the altar. Funny though - I thought Santiago had something to do with James. And indeed, I find him, alongside many other saints. Most revered is probably Carmen. The crypt is of more recent date, here the spiritual dignitaries are walled up in the vault. I am more drawn to the living and a slight feeling of hunger leads me to the market hall, a few streets away. Next to the fish stalls, which are just packing up their goods and putting them on ice, attractives at the restaurants on the edge of the hall: where are you from? You want to eat good fish? Ah Germany - I am from Argentina - very nice - thanks. One is particularly funny, dressed as a cowboy (half size). I laugh and ask if I could possibly use the service of a restroom first, then we can do business. Fish stew with cheese - boiling hot - tastes great - I already liked Pablo Neruda. Afterwards, I want to go to Cerro Santa Lucia, whatever that may be. On the way, strange shops: wool shops, a mixture of Halloween and lingerie store, several tents with fortune tellers. At the foot of the stairs to the Cerro (hill) sits a woman, a municipal employee in uniform, and kindly asks me to register in a list before entering. When I enter 'German', she smiles and says that I don't need to enter the city. I thank her. This Cerro is a total surprise: old stone stairs, a Japanese garden, fountains, beautiful trees, flowers, cacti, couples in love, tourists like me, it goes higher and higher, so that from the 'Torre Mirador' at the very top, you have a fantastic view over the city. I didn't expect it to be anywhere near as nice - super beautiful! Up there, someone skillfully plays Bob Dylan songs and accompanies them on the harmonica. Now it's clear to me - Santiago is beautiful and surprisingly different! With the mountain scenery almost all around - not as spectacular as Rio, but unique - inspiring otherwise! I definitely plan to spend a few more days here before my return flight to Germany, which I booked yesterday - eat more fish, climb more cerros, and there are still the museums that were all closed today (which is also better because otherwise I would have missed the hill of Saint Lucia).