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29.11. A Day in Black and White

Published: 01.12.2018

In order to avoid the crowds of tourists, we set off early today to admire one of the most beautiful and unique temples in northern Thailand. It is called Wat Rong Khun and is still under construction, with the architect estimating that it will take a few more decades to complete. The architect, Chalermchai Kositpipat, is a living prodigy of this region, having built many magnificent houses and sculptures, and creating a museum-like collection of paintings, drawings, and statues. I don't know how he finds the time for all of this...
Although we arrived half an hour after the opening time, the temple was already well-visited, but not overcrowded like it was later in the day. It was a pure white marvel, adorned with thousands of decorations and surrounded by green grass and waterways. As always, photos convey this best.

Wat Rong Khun in all its glory
Wat Rong Khun in all its glory

The side view
The side view

Even from the outside, I was amazed by the dazzling beauty of this Buddhist temple. Upon entering, one could follow the artist's message. In Buddhism, the cycle of life, death, and rebirth is the epitome of Christian hell. Only those who are pure and without sin can hope to escape this endless cycle and enter Nirvana. However, the chances of success for this are not very good, as only one human being has achieved it so far - the revered Buddha.

In general, I think it is a good idea to try to live in harmonious harmony with oneself and the world and to do good in order to achieve the mentioned purity. I am writing all of this because the temple showed the path from hell to Nirvana. It started in front of the temple with a pit that had to be crossed. Dozens of arms reaching out from this pit, desperate to escape the grip of the cycle of life, but unable to do so.

Before entering the temple
Before entering the temple

Desperate arms
Desperate arms from the abyss of hell

In order to escape hell, one had to cross a lake and take on the Bridge of Wisdom. However, this path was dangerous and symbolized the dangers of deviating from the right path and losing oneself.

The Bridge of Wisdom
The Bridge of Wisdom
The water holds danger and uncertainty
The water holds danger and uncertainty

If the crossing of the bridge was successful, Nirvana was within reach, but not attainable. One would have to free oneself from all constraints, temptations, and comforts of the material world. These worldly things were held low on the walls of the temple. Besides historical events such as the tragedy of 9/11, there were also figures represented. Among other things, one could discover all popular superheroes (Spiderman, Ironman, Superman & Co.), Johnny Depp as Captain Jack Sparrow, Michael Jackson, and even the little yellow Minions from "Despicable Me". These constraints and truths kept one grounded. However, in order to reach Nirvana, which was to be found on the ceiling of the temple, it was necessary to grow beyond them and free oneself. Only then would it be possible to escape the hell on earth and join Buddha.
Unfortunately, no photos were allowed inside the temple, so imagination and my words will have to suffice...

The temple
The temple
Nirvana within reach
Nirvana within reach


In addition to the main temple, which was becoming more crowded and brighter, there were a few smaller temples that we could pass by, as well as a gallery with more artworks by the architect. We could also write good wishes for ourselves and all other people on so-called Happy Leafs, which would later become part of a tree.

The tree with the leaves of the Happy Leafs
The tree with the leaves of the Happy Leafs


From white, we moved on to black. We found this at Baandam (Black House), a newer facility in a dark gothic style. It was full of animal skeletons and furs, some very obscene statues, and unique furniture, all in dark colors. The artist, like the one from the white temple, is very successful and well-known beyond national borders. He advocates for a reformation of Buddhism and showcases his reinterpretation of the faith in his art. The site consisted of several small houses, many of which were temples, but just as many were furnished for living and had toilets.

The Baandam
The Baandam
The interior of the main hall
The interior of the main hall

The furniture is certainly extraordinary
The furniture is certainly extraordinary...
Despite all the darkness, there were temples
Despite all the darkness, there were temples


From Baandam, we then headed back towards Chiang Rai, but made a stop at a place we simply couldn't pass by. On a hill sat a huge female Buddha. Visible from afar, we decided to stop by. The size was simply fascinating and the white Buddha in female form looked beautiful. So we climbed the steps to the pedestal of the venerable lady and looked around, as there were many, sometimes very funny, statues around the Buddha.


A giant...
A giant...

At the top, we saw elevators and price tags for an elevator. We asked where it would lead and only got a finger pointing upwards and the word "head" as an answer. Who could refuse the opportunity to be inside the head of a Buddha, especially one that was huge and female? So we went up and were surprised by the beautiful interior of the head. It was also kept in white and adorned with animals, human beings, and many other decorations - a wonderful sight.



Inside the head
Inside the head

Moreover, it was great to be able to peek through the eye slits and the open "Third Eye" of the Buddha woman, offering a great view of the surroundings of Chiang Rai and the rest of the complex.

Through the third eye of a Buddha
Through the third eye of a Buddha
Is the Buddha woman making a peace sign?
Through the half-closed eyelids: is the Buddha woman making a peace sign?

In addition to the female Buddha, there was another beautiful white temple and a pagoda that we could climb to the top of and admire the Buddha woman in all her glory. With the white Buddha statue and the white temple, the day ended as it began - a day of contrasts.

The temple from the inside
The temple from the inside
The colorful golden pagoda
The colorful golden pagoda
View of the entire Female Buddha. People are standing at the base for size comparison
View of the entire Female Buddha; people are standing at the base for size comparison


Back at the hostel, we strolled through the evening Chiang Rai and came across a light show at a traditional bell tower on a street island. The show was accompanied by music and the tower constantly changed, telling a kind of story. The day, which had been black and white until now, became more vibrant again with the colors of the tower. By the way, the architect of the white temple from the beginning of the day was responsible for this tower.

Another beautiful day came to an end, and there is one more to come before we head back to Chiang Mai and fly deep into the south.

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