Published: 05.07.2017
We said goodbye to the Almaluu yurt camp and set off on the road to Naryn, an ancient garrison city on the Silk Road. Naryn was only supposed to serve as a base for our excursion to Son Kul, and we didn't want to take the boring normal route, but rather a shortcut through the mountains - Google Maps knows the route and suggests it as the shortest connection. So we filled up with gas, bought provisions, and off we went.
According to this route, it should take 2.5 hours to get from Bokenbaevo to Naryn - not much for us. But after the first few kilometers, doubts crept in, the roads became increasingly impassable and winding. There hadn't been a village for a long time, only horses or flocks of sheep here and there - or even more fascinating - yaks standing on the road. Would the fuel be enough for the 4-wheel drive required here? How would we cope if the car broke down? One person sets up the tent with the children, the other sets off on the journey... We haven't had cell reception here for a long time.
We encounter fewer and fewer cars. We ask a local if we can reach Naryn on this road, he doesn't speak Russian, but shakes his head vehemently, we would have to turn back, only the main road. But we still want to know, so we continue. The snow-covered mountain peaks are within reach. The view into the valley is indescribable.
We wind our way up for about 1.5 hours, and then the decision is made for us: a bridge over a river is washed out, large rocks protrude! We can't cross it with our Duster.
So we unpack the honeydew melon, make ourselves comfortable on the meadow, and have a picnic at an altitude of about 3500 m, with the snow-capped peaks almost within reach! The herd of horses watches us curiously!
Then we make our way back down the valley, back to the starting point, and now continue along the main road to the western end of Issyk-Kul and then head south.
The Naryn region surprises us very positively - the roads are very, very good! There are hardly any potholes, but there are lane markings, guardrails, etc. Everything is very orderly!
On our way, we pass a beautiful dam, but also free-roaming camels, well-designed avenues, and even teenagers smoking at an abandoned rest stop - very diverse!
In the evening, we finally reach Naryn. A city located on the eponymous river, in a gorge. Consequently, the city consists of a very long main street, because there is not much space for housing to the right and left. With around 32,000 inhabitants, Naryn is the smallest city with a trolleybus line - that shuttles back and forth on the main street. We have booked a guesthouse, the exterior of the house looks very run-down, but the apartment inside is very well-maintained. Just around the corner, we find the CBT Tourist Info and get very nice advice there for our trip to Son Kul. They tell us that one bridge is closed, and explain how we can still get there. A few important tips just before closing time, and completely free of charge!
Then we quickly grab something to eat and get some rest, so that tomorrow the journey to Son Kul will be successful - 5 hours of driving await us!
The next morning, we take a quick look around Naryn. The city appears very friendly, the new university campus is very impressive! They are investing heavily here! The blue mosque also looks interesting. And then the adventure for us continues - how do we get up to Son Kul? Will it snow? Will we find accommodation by the lake? And another recurring question: Will the fuel be enough???