beautiful Croatia

Croatia

We enter Croatia (slightly sweaty and with a high adrenaline level). We are glad to have crossed the border into the EU without any problems. Immediately, a feeling of homecoming sets in. We have been to Croatia several times before and know our way around pretty well. We drive along the coastal road to Dubrovnik. We just take a quick photo from above. We already know the city. Next stop: Orasac.

Here we check in at the campsite. The season has started and there are already many motorhomes here. Mainly Germans and Dutch. And immediately, the German phenomenon spreads - ignoring other people! People walk past us without a word, a greeting or even a glance. Hmmpppfff... a little preview of home? But we manage to get a great pitch with a view of the sea and stay for three days. We hike above the coastal road to Trsteno. Here there is an 'Arboretum', a park with plants and trees. Native and foreign plants are protected here. We walk through the paths of the park and feel like in the jungle. There are great trees, bamboo and other exotic plants to see here. Dogs are actually not allowed - but my sad face at the entrance seems to have worked - we are allowed to enter with dogs (big grin).

Then we continue north. We drive to the Peljesac Peninsula, almost 70km to the end of the island. There is a campsite called 'Antony Boy' that we know. We were here 12 years ago on our first holiday together. Back then, we had our brand new bus 'Knut' and it was our first trip as a couple. We felt extremely comfortable here. At the reception, I am taken aback!! 25 euros per night!! Wow - expensive prices. Our 'old' Croatia from 12 years ago no longer exists. It used to be a bit of a secret tip, but now everyone comes here. Consequently, prices are high. All campsites are extremely expensive and wild camping is unfortunately prohibited. Our already meagre travel budget is screaming loudly. But we still have to stay here for another 4 weeks, because on May 25th we have an 'appointment' in Istria (in northern Croatia). My dear husband will be 50 on May 29th!! And I told him that I have rented a very small holiday apartment for us for a week. To celebrate his birthday in 'a little' luxury. What he doesn't know is that the small holiday apartment is actually a huge house with a large pool and a fenced garden. AND: very good girlfriends with their dogs are coming to spend their holidays with us and celebrate his birthday. In total, we will be 6 people and 6 dogs. I'm already looking forward to his reaction.

But for now, we need to make our way through Croatia reasonably cheaply. We decide to stay here for at least 2 days and then take the ferry back to the mainland to Ploce. In the evening, we watch the many kite surfers on the sea. Here, between the islands of Peljesac and Korcula, there is always a good wind for surfing. Consequently, there are many windsurfers and kite surfers here. But what is this ?? Huh?? Are they hovering on the water? Of course!! Wow! 12 years ago, the kite surfers used to ride on the water with their boards. Now they all have something like a fin under their board and don't touch the water with their boards at all. It reminds me a bit of 'Back to the Future' - hello hoverboard. Despite the price, we really enjoy this great place. But after three days, it's time to pack up... on we go.

On the way back (off the island), we pass through Mali Ston. This is the 'entrance' to this peninsula. There is an old castle here with a 70 km long castle wall that stretches over the entire mountain. It used to protect the coveted peninsula from intruders.

Back on the mainland, we have to drive through a section of Bosnia and Herzegovina again. That means leaving the EU again - and a few kilometers further - re-entering the EU - back to Croatia. Luckily, the customs officer is not interested in our dogs at all, so from now on we are 'safe'. We are now only traveling within the EU until we get home.

We pass through large forest fire areas. Last year's summer left its mark. Large areas have burned down and only charred stumps remain.

In Ploce, we check in at 'Rio Camp'. When we want to explore the campsite on foot, the owner intercepts us at the entrance and invites us to a homemade white wine. Not a foolish tactic on his part, as we later find out. He wants 40 euros!!! for one night. When he sees my horrified face, he suggests that we pay 25 euros per night, but we have to stay for 2 nights. OK, we wanted to do that anyway... because tomorrow has been announced as a constant rainy day. When we then drive into the campsite, we have a long face. Shabby showers and a really unsightly pitch. Hhmmppffff.... the boss knows why he intercepts the customers beforehand and regulates the price immediately. A bit sour, we settle in for 2 days. 25 euros per day!! I really have to swallow my anger. But there's nothing we can do... we paid and now we have to stay here. It's raining almost the entire next day, which doesn't improve the mood.

Then - on the third day - the sun finally shines again and we continue happily. First, we go shopping. It's Sunday, but that's not a problem in Croatia. Everything is open on Sundays here, just what the travel heart desires.

On the internet, we have found a new campsite at a lake in the interior of the country, which is supposed to open on May 1st. 15 euros per night and parking right by the lake. That sounds good. Our plan, if the weather is nice, is to stay there for a week. Hiking, paddling, swimming and doing nothing. The journey seems endless. We are driving further and further into the mountains. Admittedly, the landscape is beautiful. Mountainous, rocky, and yet green and blooming. We pass sleepy mountain villages. Everything is clean and well-kept everywhere. We like it. People look at us with surprise - tourists don't normally get lost here. Everything is in full bloom. Colorful flower meadows and wonderful mandarin plantations with thousands of blossoms. After endless 3 and a half hours, we finally arrive at the lake near the Bosnian border. Yay (we think!!). But where is the campsite here? Except for two flattened parking lots, there is absolutely nothing. Huh??? Are we in the right place?? Yes! According to the navigation system, we are in the right place. Well, that was a disappointment... the campsite is still under construction - Croatian punctuality?! But we have definitely had enough of driving today and decide to find a spot for the night here at the lake. Wild camping prohibition or not. Eventually, we find a nice gravel parking lot right on the lake at an abandoned beach bar. Unfortunately, it's pouring rain again and the cold front from Germany has caught up with us (grumble grumble). So, we retreat (once again) into the bus and hope for better weather tomorrow. We haven't had as much rain in the last few weeks as we had in the whole summer last year (we were so lucky). The next morning, the sun is shining again, but it's freezing cold and the mountain peaks around us are covered in white snow - beginning of May at the Mediterranean Sea - it's unbelievable.

We head to the KRK National Park. We haven't visited this extensive water area yet and it invites us to go hiking. A first stop at the top takes us to the first waterfalls after a short walk. Here, the Krk falls several meters into the depths. But we want to go further into the park. Camping is unfortunately not allowed here. The ranger apparently checks in the evening, so we check in at a small family campsite (Camping Europa). It's supposed to be cheap and we are very close to one of the entrances to the park. Tomorrow, we're going hiking, yay. The campsite turns out to be a real stroke of luck. A family has lovingly transformed their huge garden into a pitch area. The showers are hot and clean and there are small protected corners everywhere to sit and barbecue. We get to know our neighbors. Antje and Jeannett from Hamburg. The two likeable girls are also traveling for 3 months and were previously in Italy and France. The sympathy is perfect again. The next morning, we go to the park. First, we visit the middle section Rozi Sklap. Here, you can climb up to an observation platform. We crawl up the mountain on almost all fours. Our dogs climb like mountain goats. But the challenging path was worth it. A spectacular view of part of the Krk rewards us (huffing and puffing). Then there is a great little hiking trail along the river, over a bridge and back to the bus. In the car and a 30-minute drive later, we are at the main entrance of the national park. Here, tourists are brought into the park by boats. Unfortunately, there are already a lot of tourists here (screams) and the boats are accordingly crowded. We don't want to subject our dogs to that and decide to walk the 4 km into the park. The weather is great and the path is beautiful. Always along the river - further into the park. Eventually, we hear a loud roar - we're there. The Krk falls spectacularly into the depths at many places here. There are hiking trails on wooden footbridges over the water. It rushes past us from all sides. Truly a special sight. The river is full of trout. They are protected here and therefore not shy at all. We eat French fries and have a beer with it - it costs us a whopping 20 euros!! We also had to dig deep into our pockets for parking, and the park itself is not cheap either. That hurts.... but somehow it was worth it. What a breathtaking nature this national park has. We then walk the 4 km back to the bus and another 30 minutes later, we are back at the campsite (completely exhausted). Even our furry friends don't want to do anything for the rest of the day. They fall asleep blissfully.

We stay one more day at this great campsite. I can use the washing machine (yay). It was necessary. The family here is incredibly friendly. We laze around in the sun all day and watch the laundry dry. Somehow, all four of us are quite groggy today. I have been suffering from back pain for a long time. We have been sleeping in the bus for over a year now - well, the cushions are not exactly ergonomically valuable - I feel it quite a bit - in the form of sciatic pain. Our nice girls from Hamburg have a remedy. They have a cupping glass with them - that could help. And so, in the evening, I lie in the bus with my bare butt and a cupping glass adorns my buttocks (grinning). Kilian cups as much as he can and doesn't miss any part of my buttocks. And lo and behold!! I sleep through the night without any complaints. Thanks Jeannett :)

Then we all move on. The plan is to go to Lake Vrana. The Croatian hinterland presents itself beautifully. Everything is in full bloom and it is a true joy to drive through this wonderful nature. We then see that the only campsite at the lake costs 35 euros. Are they crazy?? No, thanks. We continue driving and end up on the island of Murter. We have been here several times before at a great campsite in a picturesque bay. Camping Kosirina. We cautiously ask what they charge now. When I hear 18 euros, my heart skips a beat. Yay, we check in and drive (as always) all the way to the back at the end of the peninsula. Few tourists get lost here - most stay in the main area. First, we park the bus and check out the location. Where do we want to park? I see a motorhome with a FN license plate on one of the upper spots. That can't be!! But yes... I am happily hugged. Tina and Markus from Germany are here too. We actually met them briefly 13 years ago and have since met up several times at my workplace. Markus reads our blog and immediately recognizes Kilian. Then Tina spots us - her eyes grow big and bigger (grinning) - what a hello!! The joy is great. They are really surprised to see us. (Two hours ago, we didn't even know we would end up here, hihi). In any case, the two are very happy to see us and in the evening, we sit together comfortably and chat. Antje and Jeannett also join us in the evening (yay). They are also immediately impressed by our spot and so we park side by side right by the crystal-clear sea. Two steps out of the bus and we're in the water - it doesn't get any better.

We then learn from Markus that our parking spots actually don't really belong to the campsite anymore, but to a baker who sells bread here in high season. They know baker Nico (they also park on one of his spots) and know that he won't be back from Switzerland until May 20th. Hhmmm mischievous thoughts come to mind.... should we really?? No!! - I don't know... we think it over... and then it becomes clear. Yes!! We officially check out of the campsite. I pay the 18 euros, which turn out to be only 15. I don't feel quite right about parking here illegally, so I ask the lady at the reception about it - about the spots we're parked on. Whether it's true that they no longer really belong to the campsite. Yes, it's true - these spots are actually private. She wants to know who told me that. I fib a little and say that an older gentleman - maybe the father?? - was the one who told us. She agrees and we can stay - if someone comes (maybe the father? grinning) and asks for money, we have to pay him. So far, we have been here for the second day (for free!!) in this dreamy bay on the island of Murter.

We go hiking with the dogs. Always along the sea on fantastic paths under pine and olive trees. The sea is incredibly clear here and shines in turquoise. What a sight. The summer is back and the sun is scorching hot from the sky. We see countless sailboats on the sea. The 'island world' of Murter is also a paradise for sailors. Despite sun cream, we get slightly sunburned after a few hours. What a great area!!

On the third day, Markus and Tina drive their motorhome down to our bay. It's too windy on their cliff up top. We spend a great evening together, listen to music, put on a little light show and chat into the night.

A day later, Markus and Tina go home and a day after that, Antje and Jeannett say goodbye (for now). The bad weather from Germany has caught up with us again (what a shame). It's raining incessantly for a whole day and then the storm comes. It rages for three days, shaking us in our bus. Everything is shaking and the wind is loudly whistling around our bus. Every now and then, a gust of wind crashes into our bus and shakes us thoroughly. The dogs are scared at night and crawl under our blankets. We also hardly get any sleep that night. It's too loud and restless in the bus. But on the fourth day, at least the rain stops and we can go out for a walk again. We persevere here - we're standing for free - in a dreamy bay - .... we will tough it out, no matter what it costs.

After almost a week, we decide to move on. We say a little sadly goodbye to 'our' island Murter. A true island paradise :) - and so cheap, grinning grinning :)... because Nico obviously didn't come to collect the money... he's still in Switzerland as we knew from a reliable source.

First, we absolutely have to go to a car wash. The storm has left a thick layer of salt from the sea water on our bus. Our Knut doesn't like that, it needs to be washed off. We drive via Benkovac into the interior of the country. Our destination is a canyon up in the mountains. We were recommended this by Markus and Tina (thanks for that, you two). Once we get there, we meet our girls from Hamburg again. We enjoy this spectacular view into the deep and wide canyon. Unfortunately, the wind is extremely strong up here and we decide not to stay here for the night. We stay near Novigrad and spend the night by the sea with Antje and Jeannett. Isolated, remote on the rocky beach with funny 'hole stones'. Yes, all the stones here have holes. In the water and on land - for whatever reason? We have a great view of the sea and the great mountains behind it. We spend a nice evening in the lee of our bus. Jeannett gets an introduction to 'poien' and immediately starts practicing.

The next day, we are drawn back into these great mountains. We set off in convoy. Our destination: 'The Valley of the Dead' - the last Winnetou film was shot here and he died in the film here as well. So, let's go up the mountain. We pass numerous minefields. Large signs with skulls warn against entering (gulp). We keep going up into the mountains. Eventually, only a gravel road remains. We listen to the Winnetou film music to get in the mood. Will he appear from behind the rock? Once we're up, we really are at the very top, we are rewarded with a truly breathtaking backdrop. Memories come up... we can actually remember these mountains. Typical Winnetou country - it looked just like this in the movies. On a small green plateau, we find the two stone graves that they left behind from the film. Here lie Winnetou and Old Shatterhand. Tourists apparently take some stones as souvenirs from time to time - the graves (which are actually just piles of stones) are constantly replenished. We enjoy this spectacular landscape - I can't put my camera down. But here, too, you have to stay on the paths - there are still mines from the damn Bosnian war in the 90s everywhere.

Back down from the mountains, we spend another night at 'our' rocky beach with Antje and Jeannett. Then it's time to say goodbye. The two want to continue to Hungary or Montenegro, and we drive to Zadar - shopping. Actually, we wanted to visit Zadar as well, but somehow we're not really drawn to the cities anymore. We are more and more drawn to the national parks and mountains - far away from civilization. We go to the Paklenica National Park. We check in at the family-run and cheap Autocamp Jaz near the park entrance and coincidentally meet again a retired couple from Styria with their great expedition truck. We met the two of them in Greece last winter. The travel world is small grinning. We chat into the evening and the next morning we set off early. We're going to the national park. We hike through a deep gorge. Steep, rocky paths always along the river uphill - into the mountains. The views get better and better. This is a climbing area - the steep walls invite you to climb, and there's also a marathon going on in the national park. It's crowded. Unfortunately, after a few hours it starts to rain and we slip down the mountain on slippery rocky paths. The hike was worth it... it could have lasted a little longer.

We are on the move again heading north. The great winding coastal road meanders between the sea and the coast... always further. Everything is blooming and green. We only know Croatia in late summer. Everything is brown and scorched then. Now in May, everything is green and colorful. After a detour to the Velebit Mountains. Unfortunately, it's still very chilly up here and we decide to go back down to the sea after a walk.

We're on our way to 'our' favorite campsite. We used to stay here for several days on each of our previous visits to Croatia. Camping Kozica near Senj. Is it still there?? Yes, it's still there - and nothing has changed. Camping for individualists. No pitches, many hidden spots to park, rocky beach and a small dream bay for swimming with crystal-clear water. We arrive and immediately feel at home. Only four other campers are here, spread out widely on the large site. That's just the way we like it. Plenty of space for everyone!! Unfortunately, it starts to rain again in the evening. It seems like the spring weather is moody this year, not only in Germany.

We stay for three days... it's still raining :( - as if the weather wants to say: dear Happy Hippies - it's time to go home gggrrrr :(

We're actually starting to think more and more about home - with mixed feelings!! On the one hand, we're very excited to see our families, friends, neighbors, and colleagues again, to be back in our apartment, and so on and so forth... - but on the other hand, a part of us doesn't want to give up this self-determined, free vagabond life at all. We're increasingly wondering if we can still handle the normal work madness at home?? Can we still cope with the pace in Germany? It won't be easy - we're aware of that. It's also a double-edged sword for our fur babies. On the one hand, they will certainly enjoy some routine and a sense of normalcy in their lives - but on the other hand, it also means waiting at home alone for a long time until we come back. For the past year, they have been outside all day, playing, swimming, and dozing in the sun - in Germany, it means: we go for a walk - and that's it. Our little Lucy also has to get used to not being with us 24/7 anymore - she is extremely clingy - we call her my shadow. Fortunately, she has Amy by her side - so hopefully, it won't be too bad for her, because the two are inseparable.

But for now, we are still here... and still enjoying every day. We arrive in the huge city of Rijeka. From above, the city presents itself with huge residential blocks and a lot of industrial activity in the harbor, but once you're inside the city!! Wow!! Beautiful old houses, ornately decorated with stucco. Beautiful to look at. Unfortunately, it's pouring rain and our sightseeing mood has completely evaporated (hmmpppfffff). We run our errands and then get out of here as quickly as possible.

We arrive in Istria. Slovenia and Italy are just a stone's throw away. Immediately, we notice the many old villas, so Italian-like. Surrounded by cypresses - a beautiful sight. But, as in previous holidays in Croatia, we find it difficult in Istria. The coast is completely built up. There are almost only mega campsites for up to 2000 people!! No, no, no, that's not for us. We decide to drive into the interior of Istria. Into the mountains. We see a sign: center of Istria - a direct hit, so to speak. The vegetation here is almost like at home (another small taste of Germany?). We find a nice campsite with a great view of the 'Istrian Allgäu'. Here we want to stay until June 25th (when the girls arrive and we can move into the house - Kilian still has no idea). We go hiking through the green countryside and enjoy a few lazy days.

Then, on Saturday, the time has come. Karin and Nicole, Yasmin and Michi, have been on the road with their four dogs since 3 am. Fortunately, we have cell phones - so I always know where they are by now. Kilian and I decide to go to the beach in Porec - summer is finally back!! The sky is blue and the air is very, very warm. In Porec, we are immediately greeted with something like a cultural shock. Packed with exclusively German vacationers, there is lively activity here. We park our bus in a public parking lot and walk to the sea. Porec is beautiful - it is also called the colorful city. We take a long walk along the sea and have ice cream. After two hours, we return to the parking lot and want to pay for our parking ticket. 20 EUROS!!! (exclamation) - for 2 hours. Wow - I'm speechless. Especially since we saw a free parking lot (with shade) right by the sea while walking. So, back into the bus - swallow our frustration - and off into the little forest. We still have 2 hours and decide to park by the sea and pass the time with a cold Radler. Secretly, I look at my phone and see that the girls are only 60 km away. Kilian urges us to leave - to go shopping and move into the apartment. I drag my feet and just sit there calmly with my Radler - but after more than 1.5 hours, I've also finished my Radler - the girls are still 30 minutes away. I pretend to have diarrhea and lock myself in the bathroom for what feels like an eternity. But it's no use... Kilian wants to leave. I message the girls to meet at Lidl - that's where we'll go shopping. I leave Kilian waiting in the bus and go shopping. And then the four of them arrive. Nicole sneaks up to the bus, knocks and asks stupidly: Which way is it to Altshausen? Kilian's eyes grow big, the question marks in them too - then it clicks and the joy is great. What a surprise!! I'm also excited to finally see familiar faces from home again (after 14 months). What a reunion. We drive the 20km to Kastelir and then the next surprise!! Not a small apartment with a plunge pool - NO - a huge beautiful house with a huge pool, lounge, terrace, barbecue, and fenced garden for our total of 6 dogs. Kilian and I even have our own bathroom - pure luxury. We move into the house and make ourselves comfortable. Then, a congratulatory drink is enjoyed and the great pool is inaugurated. Our little Lucy sees her brother Max again for the first time since Greece. Yasmina has adopted him. It takes a while, but then the two little cuties also recognize each other and the joy is great. We have 4 dogs here from Greek animal rescue and 2 dogs from Spanish animal rescue in total. The owner of the house is absolutely thrilled with our furry friends - she has her own mini zoo at home.

Unfortunately, it rains heavily again the next day and we spend the time playing Yahtzee and Uno. The next 3 days are also rainy and cool. We play games for our lives, take shorter walks with the dogs, and simply enjoy being together. Hearing stories from home again and telling a bit about our journey. Then, in the middle of the week, we celebrate Kilian's birthday properly - happy, happy birthday to my dear Kilian for your 50th birthday - stay healthy and stay the way you are - because that's just fine :):)

On Friday (well, the week is almost over), the weather is nice again. Karin, Nicole, Yasmin, and Michi decide to explore Porec together and enjoy the sea (at least for a day). Kilian and I stay at home - we already pack up a bit and get the bus ready for travel again. Tomorrow morning at ten o'clock, we have to be out - for the others, that means driving back to Germany - and we will continue to Slovenia. We still have some time and definitely want to explore Slovenia. The weather forecast for next week is summery again. I'm sorry for the four of them that they have traveled such a long way and had soooo much rain here in Croatia - but we had a great week together!! Thank you all for coming - we really enjoyed this week very much - and not too long: we will see you at home again.

We will stay in Croatia for a few more days and then it's time to say goodbye to this beautiful beautiful country.... we had a blast!!

Croatia summary: Just like before, we felt immediately at ease in Croatia. The scenery is unique and nowhere is the sea as clear as here in Croatia. The Croatians are a friendly bunch and always very accommodating. However, the prices of the campsites really shocked us. There are campsites that now cost 80 euros per night!! For camping??!! In our eyes, that is completely excessive and unacceptable for us. The prices for food and fuel are roughly the same as in Germany. Nevertheless, Croatia is great and definitely worth a visit. Goodbye beautiful country.... now we say hello to Slovenia :)