Published: 19.12.2025
At the top of the map
A day between rainforest, rituals – and the quiet longing for home
Teaser:
A day that began with improvisation, delved deep into indigenous culture, and ultimately triggered exactly what long journeys often do: gratitude, grounding – and the anticipation of family, work, and the next big moment at the Great Barrier Reef.
The day started early. Very early.
Wake up at 4:30 am, departure at 5:50 am – at least that was the plan. The bus didn't arrive. Instead: unrest, mild chaos, that familiar feeling that something could tip over.
I didn’t let it affect me.
My inner mantra was clear: We'll sort it out.
And that’s exactly what happened. Individual taxis, improvisation, arrival. In the fifth week, you realize: You don't need perfect organization anymore – you need attitude.
Sydney Airport – Expectation meets reality
Sydney Airport was chaotic. Lots of movement, little atmosphere.
To be honest, Virgin Australia disappointed me. I expected more structure, more clarity, more external impact. The check-in was functional, but unremarkable. Not bad – just far from the standards the brand promotes.
This part also matters: perceiving reality without getting overwhelmed by it.
Arriving in the north – reconnecting with people
After landing, we gathered, sorted clothing, sorted ourselves.
A pleasant moment: Chris reunited with his wife, who later drove the bus. These small human encounters breathe life into logistics.
The hotel wasn’t available yet. So lunch first.
I had Barramundi – the local fish. Excellent. Clear flavor, calm, honest. Fits right in.
No beach – but a mangrove area
For the first time, we walked along an area that at first glance looks like a beach –
but is not a classic beach.
No white sand, no resort.
Instead, a mangrove area right by the waterfront.
Explicit bathing ban.
Crocodile territory.
Nothing here is symbolic. Dreamlike landscape, vastness, water – and at the same time absolute danger. You don’t bathe here. Period.
Nature here is not romantic. It is explicit.
Rainforest – and then it becomes internally calm
The highlight of the day was the rainforest tour with a Kuku-Yalanji guide.
Not touristy. Not for show. But calm, clear, human.
It was about plants, smells, touch, use.
At a small creek, he showed us:
Everything practical. Everything experience-based. No lecture – but sharing knowledge.
You can feel right away: This isn't learned knowledge. This is lived knowledge.
Rituals, body painting – and a personal moment of recognition
At the beginning, there was a tea ceremony.
Honestly, I didn't fully understand it. And that's okay.
We stood together, had a small snack, then a small fire was lit. Bark on it, smoke, a quiet circling. No grand words. No pathos.
A ritual.
Not made for us – but shared with us.
When it later came to body painting and initiation rituals, I suddenly had a very clear moment of recognition:
I remembered that my wife and I had watched a Netflix show together some time ago that depicted exactly such rituals and body paintings.
And here I was now – traveling alone, in the middle of the rainforest –
and saw the same knowledge, the same practice, not in a film, but live.
With us, with about 16 people, calmly explained, without staging.
That was surprising, a bit amusing – and at the same time very impressive.
Signs, transitions, responsibility
He explained the initiation ceremonies:
About 14 years old, separated for boys and girls.
Stripes on the chest and arms as a visible sign.
No identification. No status symbol.
But a temporary sign of responsibility and transition.
Not showing identity – but taking responsibility.
That stuck with me.
Evening, music – and a quiet transition
At 6 pm, we met again, went for dinner together.
Group, conversations, a shared conclusion of the day.
Now it’s 8 pm. The evening ends quietly.
And then another unexpected moment: I could log into the system and make music. My own pieces. A brief, very personal moment.
Unfortunately, the tracks have not been released yet – otherwise we would have surely stayed longer.
At the top of the map – and thoughts move homeward
Tomorrow is a big day:
All-day snorkeling at the Great Barrier Reef.
I included the map so you can see exactly where we are:
At the very top of Australia, near Papua New Guinea. I’ve never been this far away before.
And yet, now the first thoughts are drifting in.
The joy for my family.
The desire to work again, to create again, to take on responsibility again.
Five weeks on the road are intense.
And five weeks are eventually enough.
Conclusion
A day that started off rocky, became deep – and ended quietly.
Between rainforest, rituals, music, and the quiet knowledge:
Travel grounds you – but home gives direction.
