Published: 30.05.2019
Thursday, May 30th: 113 km, 1040 hm, continuously sunny with temperatures up to 18 degrees, waking up the mosquitos!
The rest day paid off because today we can make our way to Lieksa in sunny weather. Unfortunately, the desired coffee break after 40 km is cancelled as we can't find a café. We have our lunch break by the river, and the coffee is served after 80 km.
The route is beautiful, as everything is turning green, which gives a different light to the many lakes. In Lieksa, we stay in a small cabin at a campground by the lake, owned by a Swiss person. Even with the simplest cooking utensils, Harald cooks up his popular salmon noodles!
Friday, May 31st:
95 km, 820 hm, rain until 2 pm, then cloudy with temperatures of 8 to 12 degrees
If all the warnings we received in the morning had come true, we probably wouldn't have reached Hattuvaara. We don't notice the strong headwind, and the route with rough gravel is actually 30 km long, but it's actually a forest floor that is passable. However, the rain and the gravel road make it difficult for us. The numerous climbs are exhausting. We make our first break completely soaked in a rustic converted schoolhouse. The interior is made of spruce wood and looks very unique. The two former classrooms have been converted into attractive guest rooms. Ideal for an retired teacher to stay overnight, but unfortunately, it's still too early. The host immediately serves fresh pancakes with rhubarb compote and vanilla sauce. And good coffee, too! It's heavenly, and we feel very blessed. We still want to cover the 65 km back to Hattuvaara. We manage to do so, and we arrive in the easternmost Continental European municipality in the EU in an apartment of Fighter's House, an association dedicated to the memory of Finnish veterans of World War II. Unfortunately, the restaurant mentioned in the cycling guide is still closed, so we have to use our travel provisions. Harald still has a can of beer. 😊
Saturday, June 1st:
92 km, 810 hm, cloudy with sunny sections, windy with temperatures of 12 to 18 degrees
The first section to Ilomantsi demands everything from us with headwind and climbs. We recover at the Kahvila with coffee and Berliner. The owner is so impressed by us and our tour that he gives us a bag of provisions.
In Ilomantsi stands the largest wooden church of Orthodoxy, but unfortunately, it is also closed. We make our way towards Värtsilä and for the first time, we see the sign EV 13, Iron Curtain Trail at a junction. We are thrilled like little children. So we are on the right track...
We have to shorten the stage as we have no accommodation in Värtsilä. Fortunately, we find a camping site run by a German woman for 20 years. The area is idyllically situated by a lake, and the main buildings used to belong to the border guard. We are the only guests and wonder how one can make a living from it.