18. Maui and Big Island

We spend our last morning in Maui in a relaxed manner. After the eventful days, it feels good not to have to get up in the middle of the night for an excursion. We take our time to calmly pack our suitcases one last time.
Before heading to the airport, we have the usual errands to run: We fill the car up with gas one last time and treat ourselves to an early, leisurely lunch. After that, we head straight to Maui's airport, where we return our rental car with ease. Surprisingly, saying goodbye is quite easy for us after the first few days – because in our minds, we are already on to the next adventure.

To be honest, Maui wasn't love at first sight for us. At first, the island seems just too touristy. The barren landscape in the south and west barely captivates us. Don’t get us wrong: The beaches are nice, but just a week of relaxation on the beach isn't enough for us in the long run. We crave more adventure – and that's precisely what Maui provides us with through two absolute highlights:
• The sunrise at Haleakalā Volcano: Waking up in the middle of the night to watch the barren volcanic landscape glow over the clouds in the first light sends chills down our spine, despite the icy cold.
• The jungle of the Road to Hana: On this winding road, we find the wild Hawaii we have been searching for. Lush green, roaring waterfalls, and dense rainforest – a true adventure. In our opinion, a week in Maui is more than enough. Those who leave the resorts behind and seek the contrasts of volcano and rainforest can experience an unforgettable time here, even amidst mass tourism.

As soon as we wake up this morning, it's clear to us: This day is going to be absolutely thrilling! A glance at the news blows us away – the Kīlauea volcano has just erupted! What timing for our arrival. The island's most active volcano erupts in a fascinating, regular series almost every two to three weeks.
When we land at the airport, we immediately feel the completely different energy of this island. No trace of Maui's barren monotony remains. Instead, Big Island greets us with raw, untamed primal force. The U.S. Geological Survey has raised the alert level as huge lava fountains shoot into the sky. For us, this means: grab our bags, pick up the rental car, and off we go towards Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park! We can hardly wait to see the glowing heart of the Earth with our own eyes.
At the rental car desk, the next surprise awaits us: We get to take a free upgrade and receive a massive Jeep Wrangler! The kids are absolutely thrilled and can hardly believe their luck – the perfect vehicle for exploring this island.
We don't waste time. We quickly grab cold drinks and snacks at the supermarket, pack everything into the Jeep, and head straight towards the volcano. We have a two-hour drive ahead of us. I know many think we are absolutely crazy for taking on such a journey right after the flight. But for us, this is simply a huge, once-in-a-lifetime adventure! The thought of the real, glowing lava raises our adrenaline and chases away any tiredness.

Once we arrive at the site, there's a brief moment of disappointment: the really big lava fountains are unfortunately already over. But we won't let that ruin our mood. We park the car and eagerly walk to the viewpoint.
Then we stand there and see the volcanic crater up close! At first, we only see dense, ascending smoke during the day. But the longer we look, the more the crater reveals itself: time and again, fresh, red lava can be seen!
The true spectacle begins with sunset. The darker it gets around us, the more magical the scene becomes. Suddenly, the darkness lights up: We see the glowing lava flows, and the entire field begins to glow mystically. The Kīlauea shows us its full power and repeatedly spews fresh lava from the ground. It's an indescribable sight that completely captivates us. We just stand there, infinitely happy – this crazy adventure was worth every second!
The Kīlauea is one of the most active volcanoes on Earth because Hawaii sits on a so-called hotspot. This is a weak point in the Earth's crust where hot magma from the mantle is constantly pushing up through a natural vent. Unlike explosive volcanoes, the thin lava at Kīlauea generally flows rather peacefully. Because the pressure underground never completely subsides, it builds up again every few weeks – causing the regular, spectacular eruptions that we are currently experiencing live!

As magical as the sight is, the weather can change quickly up here on the volcano. Suddenly it becomes quite unpleasant. Despite our jackets, the cold seeps mercilessly into our bones. To make matters worse, it begins to rain, and mist wraps tighter around the crater's edge.
Visibility decreases, and the shivering becomes overwhelming. We reluctantly tear ourselves away from the glowing spectacle and quickly walk back to the car. When we finally throw open the doors of our Jeep and sit in the dry, warm interior, we take a deep breath. René takes the wheel for the two-hour drive back through the darkness. Our accommodation is to the west, just 15 minutes from the airport.
Before we can fall into bed, we still need to do some shopping – after all, the fridge won't fill itself.