16. Maui - Haleakalā National Park Kīpahulu

Early in the morning, we leave our cabin behind. The day begins as we head into the Kīpahulu section of Haleakalā National Park. On the way, we pass the majestic Wailua Falls, which plunge straight down beside the road.

We are ahead of schedule and start shortly after 10 a.m. with the big challenge: the 6.5-kilometer Pipiwai Trail. The hike quickly proves to be quite strenuous. It is extremely warm, and the tropical humidity is stifling – every step uphill makes us sweat. However, the scenery compensates for every bit of effort. A giant rainforest tree, whose aerial roots form a small ecosystem of their own. For kilometers, we walk along wooden walkways through a dense, towering bamboo forest. When the wind blows, the colliding stems create a wooden, melodic creaking sound. At the valley's end, we suddenly stand before a gigantic, vertical cliff, where water plummets 120 meters into the depths. A small disappointment: due to an acute rockslide hazard, we unfortunately cannot go all the way to the pool at the waterfall. The view from the railing is still absolutely breathtaking.
On the way back, we encounter many hikers, some again with adventurous footwear. Back at the parking lot, we eat a snack and take a break.
Refreshed, we set out on the second, significantly shorter hike just behind the Visitor Center. The trail is a leisurely loop, leading us to the famous terraced pools. Here, cascades plunge amidst lush vegetation from one tier to the next, until the water finally flows directly into the roaring Pacific.
After the hikes, we get back in the car. We drive a short distance further south to the remote Palapala Hoʻomau Church. At the cemetery there, right on the cliffs, rests Charles Lindbergh.
Who was Charles Lindbergh?
He became world-famous when he completed the very first nonstop solo flight across the Atlantic from New York to Paris in 1927. Later, he made headlines due to the tragic kidnapping of his baby and his political stance before World War II. In his later years, he withdrew completely from public life, fell in love with the unspoiled nature of Maui, and died here in 1974. His simple grave beneath a large tree exudes incredible tranquility.
From the southernmost point of our journey, we turn around and head back to Hana. Our big hunger makes itself known. Fortunately, Hana is famous for its relaxed food truck scene. We head to one of the local trucks and order a true Hawaiian feast:
• Loco Moco: The absolute island classic made from rice, a juicy burger patty, fried egg, and rich gravy.
• Chicken Katsu / Shoyu Chicken: Crispy breaded or juicy marinated chicken, served with traditional macaroni salad.
• Kalua Pork Platter: Tender, slow-cooked pulled pork with the typical smoky flavor.
On the wooden benches next to the truck, with a cold lemonade in hand, we share our meal.

Next on our list was actually a true postcard motif: the famous red sand beach (Kaihalulu Beach). However, upon arrival, we must find that the already dangerous, slippery path there is officially closed. Safety comes first, so we spontaneously change our plans – and are more than rewarded!
Instead, we head to the nearby Hamoa Beach. This wide, crescent-shaped beach is rightly considered one of the most beautiful in the entire Pacific. The sand has a fascinating 'salt-and-pepper' color, as light shell sand mixes with dark volcanic soil. Framed by dense green cliffs, we dive into the Pacific here.
The waves are incredibly strong on this day. It is immensely fun to simply throw ourselves into the rolling breakers and hop in the waves, but it also demands everything from our tired hiking legs and is quite strenuous! The kids happily retreat to the warm sand after playing and are meticulously busy building a gigantic sandcastle while we simply enjoy the view.
While sitting in the sand, we make a fascinating discovery: all around us, the sand suddenly teems with life! Countless tiny crabs swiftly scurry out of their holes and dash across the beach. As soon as you move, they quickly dart back to their hiding spots. A brilliant natural spectacle that immediately sends the kids into high excitement while building sandcastles.
At the quiet grave of Charles Lindbergh, we find three wild coconuts. Our plan for the evening at the Waiʻānapanapa State Park Cabins: to crack the treasures – entirely without modern tools.
With only a simple knife, muscle power, and a lot of skill, we get to work. First, we drill holes into the eyes of the coconuts with the knife tip to drink the fresh coconut water.
Then comes the hard part. With strong blows of the knife's back, we work on the fibrous shell while constantly turning it. It takes a lot of sweat before the coconuts finally break open. The fresh flesh right at the lava cliffs is the perfect reward for this day!
In the evening, we fire up the grill again, but after the late lunch, we lack the appetite. Luckily, our grilling supplies are limited.