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Ireland // Day 3 // From Galway to Killarney via Cliffs of Moher and Loop Head

Published: 03.06.2018

GOODBYE TO GALWAY
Patty's breakfast was different from that of my previous host, but just as delicious. 'Irish Breakfast' means something different at each B&B, even though the basic elements are always the same. What was new today: mushrooms (I love mushrooms!) and fried eggs instead of scrambled eggs. There was also a fruit salad and 'brown bread', a type of soft whole grain bread. At first, I didn't know if it was something savory or sweet. But it's a must in Ireland - like the sheep and cows. And I liked it best with orange marmalade! And then it happened: they set up a construction site right in the middle of the country road, between the fields! I would have been totally lost and would have had to turn back the whole way - if the nice construction workers hadn't guided me millimeter by millimeter past the excavator in my Audi. Thanks again ;-)!


WAYPOINT 2: CLIFFS OF MOHER
We continued towards Doolin, where the 'Doolin Ferries' depart. They take you by boat to get up close to the famous Cliffs of Moher. 20 euros for about 45 minutes of sailing isn't cheap, but it's really worth it! I was a bit worried though: during the last boat trip to Heligoland, I got terribly seasick from the high waves. And today it was a warm, but windy day again. But anyway: no risk, no reward ;-)...
It was crowded, especially with large groups of Americans. So the longer wait for our boat was well spent chatting with some of them. I even shared my McVittie cookies, which were well received!
The boat ride itself was completely problem-free, there wasn't any excessive waves and I didn't feel even the slightest bit sick. I couldn't really take any photos because the Americans kept jumping up and excitedly running around the boat with their huge tablets, trying to capture the best pictures of the cliffs. I watched that with a smile and leaned back.
Back on land, I saw that the ferry also goes to the 3 outer islands, the 'Aran Islands'. You can even stay overnight on the largest one, that would be an idea for the next trip to Ireland!
From Doolin, we went up the hill to the visitor center of the Cliffs of Moher, so I could see this tourist magnet from above. One thing is certain: Never visit the Cliffs around lunchtime! The parking lot was sometimes closed, there were masses of people and I didn't really like it here - even though the huge cliffs were very impressive. As I later learned from locals, the best time to visit is in the morning or early evening, but that didn't fit with my tightly scheduled itinerary this time. But there was still time for some ice cream and a little walk along the cliffs.

WAYPOINT 3: LOOP HEAD
Now I wanted to cruise along the narrow coastal road, the 'Wild Atlantic Way', away from the crowds, preferably where the buses can't fit. The downside of such roads: you can only drive about 50 km/h and if you also have a tractor in front of you that you can only overtake much later, then it takes foooreeever. Just to be safe, I had already called my next host Betty to let her know I wouldn't arrive at the B&B before 8:00 p.m.
And even though it was already late afternoon, I still took the detour to the headland of Loop Head. And it was so worth it! The way there was already great, always along the sea through small villages and past farms. Once I had to stop in the middle of the road until all the cows had been driven through the village, that's how I imagine Ireland ;-)!
And when I arrived at the lighthouse, there were only a handful of other travelers there - and of course the friendly Irish staff, who were very happy to have a conversation with us about beautiful Ireland, the great weather and their beloved lighthouse. For 5 euros, we also got a quick tour of the grounds and then there was some time to explore the surrounding cliff paths. It was really lovely here, not crowded at all, with pink flowers everywhere, seabirds, the sea, the sun...I would have loved to lie in the grass like some others, but I didn't have time for that. Neither did I have time for a visit to Adare, a village that was on the route just before Killarney. And supposedly embodies the perfect Irish postcard idyll. Next time!

B&B NO. 3 // 'HILTON HEIGHTS' IN KILLARNEY
Shortly after 8:00 p.m., I finally arrived at the B&B and had absolutely no desire to drive around in my Audi anymore! I even skipped dinner rather than having to search for a restaurant or supermarket somewhere. Although I have to say, the last 10 kilometers were quite special because we had to drive into a valley to get to the B&B. With mountains in the background and 'Kerrygold cows' everywhere - it's beautiful here in County Kerry!
The Hilton Heights was another cozy B&B, the room a bit smaller than the last one, but clean and completely sufficient for the two nights I would stay. I also got to meet my host Betty in person after our phone call, and - what a joy - for the first time there were pancakes for breakfast! I'll take it easy and sleep until 7:30 a.m. (haha), because tomorrow I don't have to pack my suitcase and move on right away. And I urgently need to find a gas station!

And tomorrow: I'll cruise along the Ring of Beara! (This time I'll skip the Ring of Kerry because, according to the locals, it's way too crowded)

SOME OTHER THINGS WORTH MENTIONING
*** I completely underestimated the distances. Ireland is a small country, but you don't get around quickly on the narrow roads. So next time: Stay longer and plan less! *** Another thing I had to learn: No hair dryer in B&Bs! So I always let my hair dry in the air. *** There are always funny shower faucets. Sometimes you have to press a red button for hot water, sometimes pull a cord...but it's never just 'turn on the water'. *** You hear it everywhere: 'love' as a term of address for women ('thank you, love') and 'mate' for men ('cheers, mate!') *** There are many 'unnamed roads', roads without names. The GPS sometimes reached its limits there, but my maps.me app found every remote B&B with ease! ***

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