Mila 23 - in the middle of the Danube Delta

On Wednesday, October 18, 2017, I wake up early. The playground where I spent the night seems to be a popular spot for morning exercises. The first Romanians arrive at seven to get some exercise. I take this as an opportunity to get up. After watching the activity for a while, I go in search of breakfast. I find something for Dicken at the supermarket and treat myself to coffee and pastries from a bakery. By now, the sun has appeared over the rooftops of the city and we enjoy the sunny morning at Lake Ciuperca. Meanwhile, we are approached by Michael, who overheard me speaking German with Rango. He is walking his dog Max and offers to help me find accommodation in the Danube Delta. Shortly thereafter, a spot in the water taxi for Rango and me is booked and a bungalow near Mila 23 is found. Iulian, a friend of Michael's, has some land there and is preparing it for tourists. Over lunch, we sit on Iulian's hotel boat in the port of Tulcea, drinking coffee and beer and exchanging stories. In the early afternoon, we go back into town to get some bait for fishing and organize a permit. We are promptly in the water taxi at three o'clock and about an hour later we arrive at Mila 23. For a small tip, we are dropped off right in front of Iulian's bungalow. We settle into the accommodation and take a short visit to the nearby village. The small fishing village is well prepared for tourists. There are plenty of guesthouses as well as a few shops and small bars. We return to the bungalow in the early evening and I take advantage of the twilight for my first fishing attempt - unfortunately unsuccessful.

On Thursday, I don't get out of bed until eleven and then have 'breakfast' by the bay in front of our shelter. In the meantime, I notice the increasing activity in the water in front of me. I grab the fishing rod and with the first cast I land a 57cm pike - a good size for me to eat. I spend the rest of the day washing in the Danube (the bungalow is not yet finished and has no water or electricity) and lounging in the sun on the lawn. In the evening, we have fried pike fillet with risotto, which even Dicken likes.

Friday (October 20, 2017) is also very relaxed. After a late breakfast, I lie in the sun for a while and write a travel report. In the afternoon, I catch another pike. After it is caught and filleted, Rango and I go to the village to get some drinking water. The Romanian (Constantin) I talk to about it seems a bit tipsy and spontaneously invites me for some wine and dinner. I end up in a group of 6 men from Bucharest who have known each other since school and have been going on vacation together for years. Sounds familiar somehow. The guys are in a good mood and so I stay until late in the evening.

On Saturday morning, I go back to my new fishing friends. I was invited for breakfast last night and I can also use their shower - wonderful. For lunch together, I catch and fillet two pike, which Constantin prepares in a tasty batter. In the afternoon, the fishing friends take a nap and Rango and I take a walk in the area. In the evening, we go back to Constantin and his buddies for some wine. Since the group is going home the next morning, the evening ends early and we say goodbye warmly.

We spend Sunday (October 22, 2017) with an extensive walk in the surroundings and otherwise relaxing in front of the bungalow. I don't have to go fishing that day, as I got some pike the night before and prepare it in the form of a soup in the evening.

For Monday, I plan to go fishing from a hideout. I put a bait with dry food in the bay and a bait with a live fish a little further out. At the same time, I optimize my wood stove construction and then bake bread. The dog food hook regularly gets some nibbles, probably a crab enjoys the bait. After nothing happens at either rod until the afternoon, I catch two pike with a spinner and can enjoy fresh fish again in the evening.

On Tuesday, I also have no luck with my hideout and have to catch our dinner again by spinning. Otherwise, the day passes by, except that it is getting increasingly unpleasant outside. The sun barely shines and there is a strong, cool wind - autumn is here.

On Wednesday, October 25, 2017, Rango and I take another long walk in the area and also make a trip to Mila 23. There, I unsuccessfully try to find a shower, but treat myself to coffee and pastries again. Back at the bungalow, in the afternoon I can catch pike again for dinner, after I had no luck in the surrounding canals during our trip. With the sun shining again on Thursday, it's time to wash in the Danube. My mattress also desperately needs it. Afterwards, I go to Mila 23 again for a coffee. Since my fishing license has expired, it's time to move on. Unfortunately, there are no continuous hiking paths in the Danube Delta, so I have to rely on a ferry. According to the information at the pier, it leaves for Sulina at 6:30 in the morning. Back at the bungalow, I pack my stuff as much as possible, prepare a small breakfast in addition to dinner, and spend the evening by the warming wood stove one last time.