Frauen nur

What deeply impressed me in Iran are the women. Of course, the buildings, artworks, and the jewelry and wealth of this fabulous Persian Empire are unmatched and captivated me. But what is alive and fascinates me today are, as I said, the women. In no other country in the world have I met such incredibly kind, confident, friendly, relaxed, and graceful women. In terms of elegance, they rank second only to the Italians.

They are very loyal and benevolent, discreetly curious, interested, and sociable. I have not met a single woman whom I felt was oppressed or under control. At least not by their husbands, as they are usually treated very courteously and protectively.

If oppressed, it is by the government system. They have less freedom, rights, and opportunities, and that is a great evil. There is hardly any open rebellion, but there are hidden ones. It is evident in how they dress. Ingeniously and cleverly, they manage to comply with the dress code and still be stylishly dressed. With elegance and a lot of charm, they adhere to the regulations so that they are just fulfilled. By the way, I got the impression that this issue of clothing is not such a central issue for them as we think.

What really bothers them is that they actually have fewer rights than men. Layla told me that it is forbidden for a woman to sing alone in public. Mischievously, she added: "but I take the risk," she takes the risk. Music is her life, so she also performs alone as a singer. My question about what could happen she answered calmly saying that she does not sing political lyrics.

I have gained the impression that there are many such small, personal rebellions. I have experienced young women as incredibly resourceful and innovative. The young men, by the way, too. It is a pity that this potential is so misunderstood and hardly used by the state. Hopefully, women will continue to fight for their rights and stubbornly use this fascinating combination of charm, self-confidence, and strength that is inherent to them to improve their situation.

And the men?

Very courteous, friendly, open. As a woman, you can travel alone without being bothered, and if you ask a man for help, you will most likely get a reliable protector. The taxi driver not only took me to the bus station, but also accompanied me to the right counter. He only left when he was sure that I would take the bus to Isfahan. And all this without speaking a word of English.

I have also seen very beautiful young and old couples, couples where you could feel that they are good companions, that there is a lot of affection, and relaxed connectedness.

Somehow it is like a reverse version: what we in the West consider central, plays no such big role here. And what is essential here is hardly present in the West.

By the way, a misconception: this sign can be found in every Iranian metro. In Europe, we are quick to dismiss it as discrimination that there are metro cars only for women. The opposite is true - women are the only ones who have both cars for themselves and can also ride in the men's cars. The reverse is not true. No man is allowed to ride in the women's cars. Sometimes it is very pleasant to be only among women, but having the choice is a small privilege.