Khao Lak & Khao Sok: Traces of Devastation

An uncomfortable feeling is starting to creep in. The 4-week backpacking trip is coming to an end, and we realize that we will soon be back on a plane. We want to make the most of our last days in Thailand.

We are considering which route to take back north towards Bangkok. Since we absolutely want to do a jungle trek in the large Khao Sok National Park and a snorkeling trip, we decide to set up our new base in Khao Lak. From there, we can visit various destinations - snorkeling and trekking. An alternative would be Phuket. So, we decide to take a boat from Koh Lanta to Phuket, passing by Koh Phi Phi, to see if we like it there or if we should go straight to Khao Lak. We book a boat ticket including transfer to the pier through our accommodation.

The next day, we get up early. We are exhausted, as the past weeks have been quite tiring. We are transported in a pick-up truck, and half asleep, we hold on to our heavy backpacks as the pick-up drives over what feels like 64 potholes. Upon arriving at the harbor, we can board the ship directly. We find a spot on the floor on deck, as the ship is crowded with tourists. Our backpacks are stacked, and I wonder if I will see mine again. We sit on the floor and lean against a ship's wall. The sun is scorching down, but as soon as the ship departs, a pleasant breeze sets in. We sail on the open ocean, passing by rock formations and bays, when an announcement is made. We have to change ships on the open ocean - to another ship. The rock formations are Koh Phi Phi. After struggling through our luggage, we drag ourselves across a narrow bridge to the other ship. The journey continues, and after another 2 hours, we finally reach Phuket. When unloading the ship, the big surprise: Edina's hoodie (attached to the backpack) is missing, and after some annoyance later, we find ourselves talking to a taxi driver. We don't like the Phuket harbor at all, so we decide to travel further to Khao Lak. We book a taxi driver to take us to the public bus stop in Phuket. There, we want to take a regular bus to Khao Lak. A short time later, we are at the bus terminal and stock up on various snacks. The usual: Coca-Cola, Lay's chips, Pringles, and cookies. As before every bus ride, I pack my luggage practically.

Background:
Before my trip to Thailand, I read several times that there are "people" lying in the luggage compartment during bus rides and then rummaging through the backpack for valuables. So far, we haven't had any negative experiences like that. However, I recommend taking valuables such as (action) cameras, mobile phones, wallets, passports, MP3 players, bank cards, etc. out of the big backpack and pack them into the daypack. The daypack should ideally be a lightweight backpack that can be folded and stored in the big backpack at any time. On my trip, I mostly used it separately from my big backpack - carried as a chest backpack in front! It can also be used to store snacks and drinks for the journey, as well as travel guides and maps. Such a long bus ride is perfect for looking for a new accommodation that is strategically located (hence the maps or travel guide). Three other important tools that MUST be in the daypack for a bus ride are: tissue paper (beware of Thai highway restrooms!), hand sanitizer, and duct tape (beware of partially defective, non-adjustable air conditioners and bus blowers - these can be sealed off perfectly!).

Back to the topic:

After a long bus ride, we finally arrive in Khao Lak. We booked the hostel on the way through Booking.com. Just a few meters from the bus stop, we find our hostel. It looks promising from the outside. We go inside and long for a shower and some proper food. The hostel owner seems nice. She shows us to our room, but as soon as we open the door, a pungent smell of urine hits me. The room smells strongly of urine. I open the windows and hope that the smell will dissipate soon. We unload our luggage and immediately go outside again - we want to explore the area! Outside, the humid tropical heat hits us - compared to Koh Lanta, the humidity here is much higher.

We stroll through the streets, browse souvenir shops, and repeatedly catch glimpses of remnants of houses. The collapsed walls give a view of former children's rooms, and faded posters still hang on the walls. You can almost imagine children sitting at the desk and playing when the giant tidal wave swept over them.

Khao Lak was hit hardest by the devastating tsunami in 2004. The earthquake off the coast of Sumatra triggered huge tsunamis (plural!) that, according to official reports, first hit Phuket and the Similan Islands and then, especially, Khao Lak. According to verified sources, this was the most devastating natural disaster in the history of mankind. We are constantly reminded of this catastrophe - there are "TSUNAMI EVACUATION ROUTE" signs every 2 meters. With a queasy feeling, we coincidentally come across the Tsunami Memorial and a few meters behind it, the Tsunami Museum. We also catch a glimpse of the famous police ship that was stranded off the coast while trying to rescue the king's daughter and was carried kilometers inland.

We are approached by a Thai person under an information tent who hands us authentic photos of the tsunami and its aftermath. I hold close-ups of swollen, naked water corpses in my hands. Children. Women. Men. Without clothing and dignity. Stacked on top of each other and individually. Dead elephants on the beach. A whole city in an apocalyptic atmosphere. The suffering is almost unbearable. We pack our things and leave this place to find a shady spot under a nearby market and process the images we have seen. The sun is scorching on the marketplace, and the heat is almost unbearable. I feel dehydrated and treat myself to a passion fruit shake with crushed ice! After the mild nausea subsides, we also feel hungry again. We order Pad Thai (long time no see!) and a Roti Pancake (Thai Pancake) with chocolate and banana.

We spend the afternoon at the market until early evening. Exhausted and tired, we stroll back to our hostel. When we open our room, we are greeted with a nasty surprise: besides the heat that is now in the room (windows left open for ventilation), the smell of urine has become almost unbearable. Instinctively, I go into the bathroom and find myself standing in a huge puddle of water - the entire bathroom is flooded, and I sense something evil (leaking toilet?). After thinking for a long time, considering the price, I decide to complain. I go to the reception and politely express my frustration. The owner comes with me to the room. She examines the toilet and thinks it is leaking. Unfortunately, all other rooms are occupied, and she assures us that she will order a plumber the next day. She calls her employee to clean up. In the meantime, we leave the room again and buy a sort of air freshener at the 7/11. After a exhausting evening, we finally go to bed and sleep - despite the smell.

The next day, we are very hungry and check out the breakfast. Hard-boiled eggs, toast, and coffee are served, and later there are pancakes.

We prepare for a relaxing day at the beach and walk the long passage to the promenade. There, we rent a beach chair and relax in the semi-shade.

Today, we want to relax and be lazy. As a reward, we treat ourselves to a Thai massage right on the beach. The women greet us friendly, hand us a bottle of water, and wash our feet as usual before the massage. Each of us gets a separate lounger. A bamboo canopy bed with draped scarves - right in the sand, with the sound of the sea in the background. A feeling of well-being immediately sets in, and an hour later, we sit deeply relaxed with a portion of bananas (which were given to us as a gift) on our beach chairs and let our souls dangle. The day flies by, and soon we start feeling hungry again. We sit under one of the covered seating areas of the local beach restaurant and are immediately served. Once again, I indulge in my addiction and order spicy papaya salad, and I also order spring rolls with crispy tempura batter (the best spring rolls ever!). Edina also orders papaya salad and a portion of spicy cashew nut salad - YEAH! We have watermelon shake - it must be paradise =)

After a satisfying meal, we watch the sunset on the beach and walk back to the accommodation. The owner informs us that the plumber couldn't come, but we can change rooms if we want. We accept the offer, and the new room is worlds better and much newer. We relax for a while and make video calls before strolling through the night market and booking our snorkeling tour for tomorrow morning. In Thailand, the tour operator stands are open until late at night. You can order last-minute tours of all kinds at almost every street corner. We decide to visit the Similan Islands because the beach and water there are hard to beat. Of course, we are aware that the Similan Islands have become crowded, and we have read a lot about the high number of Chinese participants. Nevertheless, we want to snorkel and swim there. We are warmly welcomed at one of the stands by the road. They hand us another ice-cold bottle of water. We book the tour and then stroll through the night market.

There, we indulge in all sorts of delicacies - including the delicious crepe ice cream that we first had in Chiang Mai (and fell in love with). By now, I can also feel the sun on my skin - I have a slight sunburn. To cool off, I treat myself to another passion fruit shake - I could bathe in it =)

By 8 pm, the stalls are packing up - it is different here than in the previous cities. Bars, restaurants, and markets here really close very early. Some bars are open at 8 pm, but otherwise, it is exceptionally quiet for Thailand.

When we arrive at our hostel, one of the seven plagues finds us again: in front of the hostel, there is a swarm of mosquitoes flying around. Within seconds, we are covered in insects, and it reminds me a bit of the bad Mummy movies. Not funny. We run around screaming, and then there's more: we don't know the PIN for the night entrance. Panic sets in, and we pound on the keypad, accidentally triggering the alarm. Somewhere between disgust and laughter, we despair in front of the locked door. Suddenly, it opens, and one of the hostel guests opens it for us. We rush into the hostel, and in front of us stands the owner. When she sees the swarm of insects on us and in front of the door, she has a short scream. The four of us stand in front of the glass door and observe the insect frenzy in shock and silence. We see even dogs crossing the street.

The next day, we get up early. We quickly have breakfast at the hostel and pack our things for the snorkeling trip to the Similan Islands. With a little delay, the pick-up truck arrives, and after a short drive, we arrive at a private port of the tour operator. There, huge crowds of people are waiting for their booked tours. Actually, there are several beautiful island groups in the area that are protected natural areas. Therefore, not all of these people are customers of the Similan Islands tour. However, we can make out a very high percentage of Chinese tourists, almost 80%. We get fins, a diving mask, and snorkel and also grab a coffee from the buffet. After half an hour, we are ready to go. The groups are assigned. We are in a smaller group because we booked the English language tour and not the tour in Chinese. However, to our annoyance, we find out that there is also a German tour that consists of only 3 people. Therefore, I recommend that everyone explicitly ask for a German-speaking tour when booking - it's worth it!

A short time later, we are on the high-speed boat, and I hope that the waves won't be too rough. As a preventive measure, I have brought my Vomex tablets with me. The engine starts, and we leave the harbor. After a while, the boat gains speed and slams hard against the waves. We sail for 2 hours until we reach the first island. Unfortunately, the boat cannot dock at this island, which is often seen on postcards and is known for its round dark rocks. So we drift on the open sea and one by one, we jump into the water with fins. The sight is amazing. Crystal-clear turquoise water - like in the most beautiful holiday advertisements. An underwater world full of huge corals, colorful schools of fish in all imaginable colors, patterns, and shapes. There are giant starfish and shells on the bottom. We stay here for a good 25 minutes, then move on to the next island. There, too, we rub against the open sea, and the fish gradually become larger and more diverse. The guide of the German group gives Edina and me tips on where to snorkel. Snorkeling in the open sea is exhausting while the sun beats down in the midday heat. As soon as you sit on the floating boat, seasickness sets in.

We reach the third island and anchor there. The view is truly breathtaking, and although masses of people storm the island like in a war, it doesn't change its beauty. While all the other tourists line up at the lunch buffet, Edina and I stand at the shore and enjoy the almost empty view of the open sea. The sand feels silky under our feet. I can't see any plastic or trash. The water is crystal clear and shimmers in the most brilliant turquoise colors. "Paradise," I think. At some point, we also get our food and eat it standing up, eager to quickly get to the other side of the island, a piece through the jungle. There, entire crowds of people have already gathered - mostly Chinese, as they, according to the German tour guide, cannot swim. Some of them have whole sports bags full of ball gowns and change their clothes at the shore to take photoshoots...
In contrast, we grab our snorkels and hide our valuables under some palm leaves in the "bush" and sprint into the water with our action camera. Underwater, we discover the most wonderful fish, including some well-known poisonous ones. After a while, we continue to the next island, where we cannot dock again. Finally, we reach the last island, where, with a bit of luck, we can see large turtles and whale sharks. Unfortunately, we cannot find the German guide among the crowd and do not know where the best spot for this is. The sun is now shining at its full strength, and it's becoming very strenuous. While Edina snorkels in the water, I hide under a large rock in the shade and drink 2 bottles of water. The salt on my skin, the sun, and the exertion - slowly, I start to worry. I feel the urge to check my arm for bat droppings. Meanwhile, Edina controls her arm regularly. Nothing happens.

On the way back, we stop at another spot. We now get a jungle coffee. The Thais start a fire and make coffee. We also get protected bamboo cups and spoons. Pretty cool. The river ride continues, and we finally pass the iconic rock formations of Khao Sok. The view is overwhelming. You're so beautiful, Thailand.

The sun continues to scorch our legs. The burning wound and my skin are constantly irritated, and centimeter by centimeter, I apply sunscreen to my thighs, fearing a sunburn. I ask the Thai how often he does the jungle trekking per day. He answers: twice. I have a little respect. A tough guy.

Eventually, the ride is over. I secretly give the guide 100 baht as a tip because I suspect that most of the money goes to the other guide, and the "smallest" one sees the least pennies. He thanks me.

Back in the car, we are again shuffled together with the couple. The man talks our ears off.

We stop at the monkey temple, and as soon as we rustle, about 30 monkeys storm down from the jungle - swinging on vines and almost unbeatable in their coolness. I dig out my bananas from the market from my backpack. Other Thais come running with more bananas, nuts, and water. It's a feast! Wonderful.

We get back into the pick-up truck, and Edina tells me that she had a green-blue spider on her arm that bit her. I ask the Thai, "Is there a green-blue spider in this area?" The Thai looks at me in shock: "Yes. Very very dangerous. Poison!" Edina turns pale and looks at her arm. The Thai asks slightly suspiciously, "Why? Have you seen the spider?" Edina says, "Yes. The spider was on my arm and bit me." Everyone looks at her arm, but there is no redness to be seen. The Thai says, "Please be careful and look at your arm next time. If you have been bitten, you need to go to a hospital!" Great. We continue driving, and Edina checks her arm regularly. Nothing happens.

Along the way, we stop at a viewpoint. We have a panoramic view of the entire Khao Sok jungle. The deep green stacks up in several heights and layers and looks almost close, although we are at an incredible height. We cannot see the ground. The rainforest is densely grown. Simply beautiful.

Finally, we are driven to our respective accommodations. We say goodbye to the nice Dutchman, the aerospace engineer. The pizza is delicious. We walk back to the hostel, where the owner has patiently waited. She drives us to a government hospital, which is good and affordable, she says. It is also where her employee's seriously ill daughter is. The doctor there is young but very good and really progressive, she adds.

We arrive at the hospital, and my first impression is, "Wow!" Clean and great service. I speak with the doctor, whose English is really good. I explain to her what happened and ask her if it is theoretically possible for bat droppings to transmit rabies. She explains to me, using all the Latin technical terms, how rabies is transmitted, how many risk groups there are, and what can be done about it: from vaccination beforehand to post-vaccination. She also explains that I am in risk group C. Infection through feces, for example, through contaminated soil in a cave, is possible. Bats almost always have the pathogen in them, and since I am not vaccinated, it is advisable to eliminate this risk with 5 subsequent injections. The injections also have to be given within a certain time period, day by day.

I get a bandage change and a proper wound cleansing, including the first shot. Sunbathing, sports, and massages are prohibited the next day. Great. The beach vacation ends for me here because we will travel to Bangkok the day after tomorrow, where I should get my second injection. 750 baht later, we are back in the car on the way to the hostel. I thank the hostel owner very much for her effort and help. This is the kind of humanity and compassion that has largely been lost in Germany.

We fall into our beds, exhausted, and fall asleep.

In the morning, we sleep in and skip the meager hostel breakfast. We saw a café on the beach where we can have Swiss cheese and baguette for breakfast. We walk there and have a cozy breakfast with fresh orange juice. Afterwards, we go back to the hostel. The owner has offered to drive us to the post office and help us with sending our package (backpack + souvenirs = heavy). She also wanted to help us buy a bus ticket to Bangkok. At the post office, she also fills out the customs declaration for us. After half an hour, we have everything done, and I gratefully give her a tip again for everything she has done for us so far.

We spend the rest of the day at the beach. I sit in the shade, without a massage, but with a mango shake and papaya salad. In the evening, we stroll through the night market again and buy souvenirs.

The next day, we have breakfast out again. We saw a café on the beach that the hostel owner highly recommended. We want to indulge in a feast one last time. It offers ice café, fresh waffles with chocolate sauce, mango, and cheese sandwiches (real ones! not soft toast, but made in a sandwich maker!) When the breakfast comes, I break the sandwich apart. My fears are confirmed: there is not only cheese in the sandwich but also a kind of remoulade. I say, "So, if there is a moment during our trip to Thailand when I get diarrhea - it's probably now!" I take a cautious bite and wait to see what happens. In the meantime, I eat my waffle. Nothing happens, and gradually, I eat my sandwich.

Then we go to the beach until the afternoon. Then we set off for the hostel and pack our backpacks and daypacks for the bus journey. Once again, we buy provisions at the 7/11. The usual. In the early evening, we also have dinner. This time, I eat morning glory - after a long time. Haste takes us back to the hostel. The humidity and temperature are much higher today. Many, including us, feel down. The rush was exhausting. The kind owner gives us the key to a new room so that we can shower before the bus journey. Very nice. Then we jump into her car, and for the last time, we accept her helpfulness and let her drive us to the bus stop.
We say a heartfelt goodbye to each other, with a little tears in our eyes.

In the bus, there are super comfortable seats. They cannot be compared to the typical seats... comfortable and cushioned, perfect for leaning back. We will now be sitting on this bus for over 7 hours. Through the night, until we arrive in Bangkok. Edina and I search for a hotel in Bangkok on the way and book it. This time with a rooftop pool and queen-size bed. Unfortunately, our hostel at the beginning of our trip was fully booked. What a shame. The bus company distributes snacks and water, as always. Then the lights go out. I see the silhouette of the Khao Lak National Park cliffs passing by. Above them shines the moon brightly. Here and there, we stop in the wilderness. People get on. The atmosphere is special and, above all, cozy.

When we arrive in Bangkok, it is very late. We call a taxi and have us driven to the Sukhumvit area to the hotel. Once there, we pay extra to check-in early at 6 a.m. We sit down at the breakfast table right away. Besides the many typical things, partially European and partially Thai, there is also a huge buffet with Malaysian, Japanese, and Chinese hot dishes. After breakfast, we take a shower and fall into our beds into a deep sleep, which should last until 2 p.m. when the alarm clock rings. RIIING. Time for the odyssey to find a hospital in Bangkok.