Ghjornu 33 à 36 I primi ghjorni da soli è in Ungheria 🇭🇺
Publicatu: 05.09.2022
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Tue 23.8.
After bringing Annika to the bus, I crossed the country towards Lake Neusiedl. After a while through the Viennese suburbs, I struggled through wet sandy paths across the fields. I made slow progress. I called these paths 'Honey Paths' because they were so tough. Eventually, I was able to ride on roads again.
Then the Leitha Mountains came into view. I cycled the approximately 200 meters in altitude and took a short break at the top.
The descent was fast, reaching speeds of over 60 km/h at times. Lake Neusiedl came into view - even though it looks more like a steppe. They are actually all reed belts. According to cyclists I met the next day, the lake currently has a water level of 69cm. The lake is overall very shallow and is fed by a few small streams and rain, there is no outflow, most water is lost through evaporation.
First view of Lake Neusiedl or the reed belt 
On the well-developed cycle path around the lake, I enjoyed the good infrastructure and had a delicious break in Lydia's garden.
I continued to cycle around the lake until I reached the first Hungarian village and the very nice, quaint campsite, which would probably deter the typical camper (old, cobwebs, no wifi at the site), but offered more than enough comfort for a cyclist. I cooked a delicious couscous with lots of garlic and then went to bed tired after doing the dishes and taking a shower.
Wed 24.8.
After packing up, I continued around the lake. On the side of the road, I found a stand with grapes from the fields. The woman spoke good German and we chatted for a moment.
I continued on cycle path 13 to the south. Along the way, I bought groceries for dinner. The lady at the bakery only spoke Hungarian, but we managed anyway. I need to learn Hungarian. I had a picnic in a park with a grand palace, enjoying the cool shade of an old tree. The weather was warm. Then I continued.
Me on the bike 
In the evening, I reached Celldömölk, my destination for the day. In the background, a mountain rises from the otherwise very flat landscape - an old volcano. I had actually prepared for wild camping, but in Celldömölk, there was an unexpected sign pointing to a campsite at the edge of town. I decided to go there, even though it was a small detour.
I arrived at the campsite late. I could see the site, but it was well closed off with a barrier and there was no reception to be seen anywhere. Right next to it was a hotel and a swimming pool. I found the hidden hotel entrance and it turned out that the campsite belonged to the hotel. They told me to just pitch my tent - but how do I get onto the site if I don't get a card for the barrier anymore? Well, I had to push my sweaty and exhausted dusty bike through the hotel lobby 😃
On the site, some Germans offer me the spot next to their camper. In their younger years, they also went on long bike tours. After setting up and cooking, we sit together with a glass of wine (or maybe more?) and have very nice conversations. Then I take a shower, check my things - it's supposed to rain - and go to sleep 😴
Tent impressions
Thu 25.8.
Woke up at 7 am, generally more sluggish than usual - must be because of the wine. 🤔🍷 On the campsite, many people talked to me in the morning. Some were worried if everything was still dry for me. From the perspective of the luxury retiree campers (there are no other people on the site), I must look like a homeless person. ☺️ One man even came by and brought me a coffee - unfortunately, I had already finished breakfast. But it seemed like he really wanted to do something nice for me and later came back with an original Bavarian wheat beer. I'll find a way to cool it and toast to him in the evening 🍻
Then the journey continued, I said goodbye and set off around 11 am. In one of the next villages, I had to stop again. I had never seen a bus stop so lovingly furnished before 😄 🚏
I continue on cycle route 13 for a good distance, passing through beautiful Hungarian villages.
Eventually, I turn towards Tapolca. And immediately, I find myself on a rougher and rougher route. It also becomes so steep that I have to push. It was very exhausting in the direct sun. I was relieved when I reached asphalt again. In the next larger town, I bought groceries. The small store was full of men happily conversing, apparently a popular meeting place. Then I rode a bit further into the countryside with dinner in my bag until I found a nice spot for wild camping. While exploring, I startled a female deer, found a stream to cool my wheat beer, cooked, ate, and slept.
Fri 26.8.
After packing up, I continued towards Tapolca. First, I had to overcome a decent slope, but in return, there was a beautiful view all the way to Lake Balaton. In Tapolca, I looked for a bakery. Eva from Bonn, originally from Hungary, approached me and showed me a good bakery. I peacefully enjoyed a piece of cake with a cappuccino and planned the rest of the day.
I bought some groceries, and a family approached me about my bike, the woman translated while the man enthusiastically asked about my journey. One of many nice encounters. Then, I visited the Tapolca Caves. Supposedly, you can explore the cave underground on a boat. When I arrived, the touristy place put me off. I decided to continue riding.
Street in Tapolca 
So I headed towards Lake Balaton. But after I had already cycled a few kilometers, I regretted not going into the caves. After a short back-and-forth, I decided to turn around again and visit the caves after all. When I arrived at the site, I found out that the waiting time was two and a half hours. I decided to endure the wait and spent the time in a nearby park, writing a bit for my blog. It was a good decision, and the museum and then the caves were worth the wait. I found the geological information about the formation and transformation of the region over 260 million years fascinating, as well as the historical information about the use of the region for flint mining in the Stone Age and the discoveries made in the cave.
I even bravely sat through the half-hour museum tour in Hungarian, which was followed by the boat ride (clever pedagogy). It was good that I had had the chance to walk through the museum once and read the translation in German before. In the end, I realized that he had been giving a safety briefing for 10 minutes. When he finished, I went up to him and asked him in English if there was anything important I needed to know. He replied shortly: 'no'. 😳😄
In the queue to board the self-piloted boats, I met a German family. The man worked for the municipal utilities of Kassel. It's a small world. Since I was traveling alone, I could steer a boat by myself. I was given a small wooden paddle and navigated the very low, narrow shaft that leads into small caves. The water was very clear. A great experience.
After the cave visit, it was already late, so I headed for the next campsite on Lake Balaton. I rode through the interesting volcanic landscape that I now knew so much more about.
Once I reached the lake, I quickly found a good campsite with a large tent area where there was still plenty of space. I positioned myself near the tent and the two bikes of obvious bicycle travelers. Over the course of the evening, I met the young couple from Frankfurt who were on a bike tour through Austria and Hungary. We exchanged experiences about the tour, equipment, Hungary, food, cooking, and so on. After cooking, I washed a few of my things, showered, and went to bed satisfied. Let's see if I stay here for another night. I definitely want to go swimming in Lake Balaton tomorrow. 😃🌊⛱️☀️
You can follow my tours on Komoot:
https://www.komoot.de/collection/1622992/-draussenerfahren
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