On the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

I want to warn you in advance - this is going to be a longer post! But it's worth it - because there has been a lot going on here in Peru in the past few days, from a huge surprise to an absolute highlight of our trip so far. If you don't feel like reading, you can scroll down and watch the video directly.

Day 0 - Surprise, Surprise!

We both arrive very early in Cusco from Bolivia by night bus. Luckily, the triple room we booked is already ready. We can shower, get some rest, and set off for the airport at 10 o'clock.

Mathias says we're picking up Seraina's brother Silvan, who is coming to Peru for a week and wants to hike the Inca Trail with us. He casually posts a photo on Instagram and tags Silvan - a welcome gesture, so to speak.

Seraina knows that it's actually not Silvan, but Christoph, Mathias' brother, who is on the plane. This has been an ongoing secret mission since mid-January, which is pretty much known throughout the family and friends in Switzerland, but nobody here knows about it.

So the two of us are standing in the arrival area in front of the airport. Seraina seems nervous - Mathias not at all. He even takes the time to get coffee and empanadas - but fortunately returns in time when a Swiss guy steps out of the glass door. Huge eyes, jaw dropping, and completely speechless, he stands there when he sees his brother in front of him. It takes a few minutes and explanations until everything is sorted out. Amazing - an absolutely successful and completely unexpected surprise!

We go to the booked hotel - and there is a bunch of Swiss chocolate, Chesterfield cigarettes, favorite lip balm, seasoning, and new running shoes for Mathias. It's practical to have a direct import from our home country after 9 months of traveling.

We spend the afternoon with an initial exploration tour in Cusco. The altitude doesn't cause any problems for the newcomer, so we stroll together through the streets and visit a larger market - all part of acclimatization, especially if you've landed in South America for the first time.

In the evening, we attend the briefing of our travel agency, which will accompany us on the Inca Trail for the next four days. We meet our guide Reynaldo and Rahera, the only other traveler in our group. The other group was already full, so a new group was formed just for us - so we are 4 instead of 16 people (the maximum number per guide), which we really appreciate. All necessary information and our pack bags for the porters, where we can load up to 7 kg, are handed out. After dinner, we go more or less straight to bed - the next few days will be strenuous, and we leave at 4 am tomorrow morning.

Day 1 - Warming up

Shortly after 4 am, we sit on the bus with a blanket and drive first two hours to Ollantaytambo. From there, it continues a bit rougher to KM 82, where the classic Inca Trail starts. It's swarming with green-clad helpers - our Green Machines are ready for our adventure. Besides the guide and the chef, 10 porters are accompanying us. They carry up to a maximum of 30 kilograms each. Our tents, sleeping bags, sleeping mats, spare clothes, all food, and other necessary equipment from gas canisters to chemical toilets are carried. On the trail, there is practically nothing except a few rudimentary toilets.

We have a very rich breakfast, strap our day backpacks with rain gear, water, and cameras on our backs, and pose for the obligatory starting photo. And then we're off. The first section after the checkpoint, including a small information center, is rather cozy. It's flat to slightly uphill along the valley and occasionally past small huts with adjacent agricultural areas. The weather is cloudy but nice - just right for our first few kilometers. Our guide Rey keeps explaining flora and fauna - so we learn something along the way. We already pass some smaller Inca constructions and also receive interesting information here as well. The first lunch stop comes soon, and we are flooded with food. It seems that food has a very high priority, and we are truly spoiled. There are always alternatives and a good selection for Seraina and her special requirements. A short siesta in the sun, and the march continues.

After a total of 14 kilometers, we reach our first camp. The tents are already set up, and warm tea/coffee is waiting in the dining tent, so we can relax. The dinner is also convincing in terms of quality and quantity, and we can fuel up for tomorrow's day. The night at 3,300 meters is rather cool, and Mathias and Seraina's sleeping bags are borderline when it comes to warmth. But with a few layers of clothing, it works.

Day 2 - Challenge accepted

Wake-up call is at 5 am. We get a basin with warm water and another great breakfast. Then we start walking while the porters dismantle the camp. Later, they will overtake us and prepare everything for lunch. On the second day, we climb uphill. In the morning, we hike to the "Dead Womans Pass" at 4,200 meters and descend to 3,580 for lunch. The weather doesn't always cooperate along the way - but we are well equipped with a rain jacket, rain pants, and a rain poncho. It gets hot under all these layers, but it's better than freezing.

Once refreshed, we head back up, passing Inca ruins and reaching an altitude of 4,000 meters. After the second peak, our legs start to feel tired, and the descent to the second camp at 3,600 meters makes our knees a bit shaky. But with the best weather conditions, we arrive at the second camp. Everything is prepared, and here we even have more or less functioning showers. We make up for the necessary personal hygiene with ice-cold water.

For the aperitif, we have a can of Cusqueña that we bought from one of the last sellers on the trail. We spend the evening playing Yahtzee and enjoying another nourishing dinner before heading to our tent for a second chilly night.

Day 3 - Easy peasy

We don't wake up until 6 am - it's like sleeping in after the past few days. The third day is considered the easy day, and our legs are grateful for that. After breakfast, we start walking. It's a short uphill stretch, then mostly downhill. We visit two very impressive Inca sites, spend some time there, and arrive at the third camp already at noon as planned. The afternoon is practically free, and our guide shows us a huge terrace area of the Incas, just five minutes away from the camp. After a few words, he leaves us alone here, and we explore the different corners and countless stairs of the site. A few hundred meters further, there is a waterfall, which we also briefly visit. But it's definitely too cold for swimming.

We relax for the rest of the afternoon. Shortly before dinner, the next highlight comes from the kitchen. They actually baked a fresh orange cake without an oven. We indulge in this sweet temptation, even though we can hardly eat anything for dinner afterwards.

Before going to sleep, we receive the final information about the big day tomorrow. We prepare everything to make sure we are ready and the first ones at the Sun Gate - the gateway to Machu Picchu.

Day 4 - Highlight

Earlier than ever - namely at 3 am - we get up. We start right away - but not far. After just 5 minutes in the darkness, we reach the first intermediate goal and wait in front of the checkpoint. At 5:30, the gate opens, and all the trekkers waiting with us pass the checkpoint. Now we start walking on a slightly uphill trail towards Machu Picchu. After about 45 minutes, we reach the Sun Gate. But the sun is nowhere to be seen - thick fog is hanging in the air. The famous first view of Machu Picchu from here is denied to us even after waiting for some time. So we descend to Machu Picchu itself. The fog is still hanging over the mountain, and the atmosphere is very mystical. Therefore, we first get the stamp for our passport, have a coffee, and make a quick visit to the toilet. The weather is improving, and we first explore the upper part of the Inca city. It's breathtaking to see how the weather moves over the mountain and can change every minute.

We now share the photo spots here with countless other visitors - as we were mostly alone in the last three days. This was to be expected, and to be honest, we almost expected it to be worse than it actually was.

We move to the lower part of the site, and our guide bids farewell shortly before 10 o'clock. The three of us now climb Wayna Picchu - one of the two mountains from which you have a great view of the city. After the 45 kilometers of the past few days, the mountain is not a piece of cake. Countless steps, all different heights, some very high, challenge our last reserves of energy. But the view is worth it. From up here, Machu Picchu looks very small and flat - a completely different perspective than before.

It starts raining again in the middle of the descent. But we make it down safely, leave the site through the lower exit, and take the bus to Aguas Calientes. A restaurant in the town serves as a meeting point for all guests of Alpaca Expeditions, and we treat ourselves to a lunch including a beer. With our complete equipment, we head to the train station and take PeruRail back to Ollantaytambo, where we switch to the bus to Cusco.

Tired but with great memories of the past few days, we arrive at the hostel in the evening. Not much left to do except take a hot shower - off to bed, and tomorrow we sleep in.

PS: Sleeping in didn't work out - someone started hammering nails at the hostel at 8 o'clock. Well - you can't always have it all. You will soon be able to read about what happened in Cusco in the next post, how guinea pig tastes, and why the Rainbow Mountain is not always a colorful spectacle.