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The craziest border crossing

Ishicilelwe: 13.02.2018

Onwards, always onwards! With the night bus, we were expecting 12 hours on Route 40, the longest national road in South America and one of the longest highways in the world. We secured the two seats in the front row, right behind the bus driver. Barely had we settled in for a long night ride, we already made two new friends: the two bus drivers. Together we drank Argentine mate tea, shared snacks and cookies, and chatted about this and that. Yes, Argentinians are a very sociable people and most of all they love to share and invite others.

After a few kilometers, the road under our wheels turned into a gravel track full of potholes. Off-road continues for the next few hours. Unfortunately, the two drivers can't tell us why the road was never finished. Their assumption: corruption.

The next morning we reach the small Argentine village of Los Antigous, a few kilometers from the border. Together with some other puzzled backpackers, we form a group of 8 and take two taxis to the border crossing. Stamped in Argentina, we have successfully left. And off we go: between the Argentine and Chilean borders, we have to walk 12 km with all our luggage. But we couldn't have been luckier. A pick-up truck picks us up - all 8 of us - on its flatbed. Off to the Chilean border! Next stamp, another taxi, and we are in the next village. But how do we get further from here? Our destination is Puerto Río Tranquilo to see the famous Marble Caves.

What luck, a minibus can take us there directly in 4 hours. We race over the wildest gravel roads with an even wilder driver along the winding streets. While there was absolutely nothing to see on the parallel Route 40, here we can't stop marveling. Turquoise-blue lakes, mountains, and green forests - like in a picture book.


We arrive at our next destination around 4:00 p.m. The driver drops us off directly at an agency and we can start the 1-hour boat tour right away. Of course, we want to!

We jump over the waves at full speed. Definitely hold on tight with both hands, that was the boat driver's advice. Now we know why.

The caves are beautiful, especially how they reflect the colors in the blue lake. Quickly take a few photos and we're back even faster. As if the day hadn't been exciting enough...


Before we start looking for accommodation, we want to ask about a bus to the next bigger city, Cohaique. "Oh, you're in luck, today's bus is 1 hour late and should arrive here in 5 minutes," the lady at the ticket counter informed us. Said and done, and now we're already on the next bus to end our day in Cohaique 5 hours later.

Phendula