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Trolls and Emperors

Ishicilelwe: 16.08.2023

The rhythm of driving, staying overnight, and packing, which I had become accustomed to in Iceland, was now gone again after the long break. I noticed this on the first day in Norway. Therefore, there is not much to report about the rainy drive from Bergen to Førde. I moved forward soaking wet, that's all. The new exhaust smells strange when it warms up. I'm still observing that.

However, today was a fine day. A lively start in Førde at 15 degrees and some sun. Then a bit of rain again, but it didn't last. I had some trouble with my navigation yesterday, but today Maps led me through beautiful valleys and over great passes. It's going well :o)

Roads no. 63 and 64 were the most traveled routes for me today. I made the first stop at the information center for Europe's largest glacier. Many interesting aspects about life near the Jostedalsbreen and the development of this glacier and the climate over millions of years are well presented here. And without judgment! Great. Unfortunately, my tour today did not allow me to get very close to the glacier. But I saw a glimpse of it and its icy breath in general.

The nature in Norway is lusher and greener than in Iceland, there is more forest, and the fjords are much more densely populated. Every now and then, I suddenly felt at home in Thuringia again. The dimensions may be slightly smaller there, but the overall impression fits. (If you're not by a fjord, that is.)

However, the clouds and the water vapor formations of the glacier are extremely impressive. This creates fantastic, sometimes mystical landscapes.

At the Øvstefossen waterfall, I was able to follow the water a good way down. I didn't dare to take the old mountain pass road at Styrnefell. Suddenly, I was in the clouds at an altitude of 1030 meters above sea level. Shortly after, it cleared up again and I had the winding road down to the Geirangerfjord in front of me. In the middle, the view lured me into making a stop. My parking lot was still almost part of the grounds of the Hotel Utsikten, where Emperor Wilhelm II visited in 1894. Unfortunately, the restaurant was closed.

So I continued, through all the curves until I reached the bottom, then very carefully through the streets of Geiranger, congested with cruise ship tourists. At the other end of the valley, I went back up the 'Eagle Road' with its 11 hairpin bends. Each hairpin bend has a name. A bus has a hard time in these curves. I had to roll back a few meters once to make passing possible.

Now I was experienced with hairpin bends and continued on to the Troll's Path. Once again, the road winds its way through beautiful mountains, the sun was shining, and I hoped for less haze than on the previous peaks. But when the view of the pass finally emerged, there was a massive thick white cloud wall where the view of the mountain pass was expected. So I slowly rolled through the clouds down the curves of the Troll's Path. Fortunately, the visibility improved slightly and I could watch buses maneuvering again.

In the end, I was very happy to have taken such a great tour of about 340 km.

Tonight, I am staying at a hostel in Molde. It is simple but functional and I have a beautiful view of the fjord.

Phendula

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