Day 39 - Logoso to Muxia

Yesterday evening I walked up and down the street and saw a foal that had just been hand-fed a bottle. I got chatting to the elderly lady on the farm. After dinner I went back and was told the story behind it. It was born two weeks ago on the pasture. All of their horses live on a large pasture with a piece of woodland. The foal's mother rejected it after a short time and tried to kill it. It was only by chance that they discovered it in time and brought it to their farm. It lives here in a stable with 4 cows and is now being raised by hand. Because of this stroke of luck that it was discovered in time, the grandchildren named it "suertuda". Translated it means good luck, or the one who had good luck.

The beds tonight all had curtains, so there was a bit more privacy than usual. But that meant I fell asleep at around 9:30 p.m. and was awake again at 6:15 a.m. this morning. So things start much earlier.


As is typical for Galicia, it is raining, of course. The weather here is crazy. You have to put clothes on and take them off, etc., countless times. When the sun comes out for a short time, it is muggy, cold in the shade and windy, and disgusting in the rain.
So off we go, straight on the first climb of the day. Like the last two days, it is accompanied by gunshots that you can hear here. The Camino runs through hunting grounds. After a short time we come to the "Territory of Vakner", where, according to legend, a werewolf lived 500 years ago. After a total of one hour, we come to the fork in the current paths. One leads directly to Finisterre and the other, which I take, leads 27km to Muxia and then another 32km to Finisterre. This was also the highest point today, but the rain meant visibility was pretty poor, so of course there was no sea in sight.

So we continued over the hills and through forests. And for the first time since it had been raining for days, something like a rainbow was visible. No one had seen one in the last few days, even when it was raining and the sun was shining. Our calves and thighs were now really warm because we were going up and down so often and often steeper for longer stretches. The forests were picturesque and the later it got, the more often the sun appeared briefly and it became very humid.

At half past one the time had finally come. If the wind was right, you could hear the sound of the sea and the waves breaking a little earlier. But now the beautiful view of the sea could be seen between the trees. The sun stayed shining from here until we arrived in Muxia. 20 minutes later I was on the shore.

Really done. Crossed the entire north of Spain. From the Pyrenees to the Atlantic Ocean.

After a short break on the shore, we continued on. There were still a few more hours to go until we reached Muxia. For a change, we climbed two more mountains before the path along the shore made the last 2km unforgettable.

After showering in the hostel in Muxia, I went to the cape, where a church was built right at the end. Then I went up to the highest point of the cape and enjoyed the view, or just let my mind wander a little. I rounded off the tour with a walk through the many small alleys and in a restaurant on the waterfront promenade.

Arriving here by the sea today was a hundred times nicer and better than in Santiago, where there were far too many people and it just wasn't suitable for the last few weeks.
Tomorrow we'll start early again. With a lot of extra weight for the last 32km. Breakfast, because the bars don't open until later, lunch, because there's only one bar after 15km on the entire route, and lots of water, for the reasons mentioned above. The route from Santiago to here was very, very exhausting. Above all, because there are no really relaxed sections, but rather it's a constant up and down. The same will be true tomorrow, when we'll first head up the mountains (in the pictures from the cape, to the right of the city) and will have climbed a total of around 1400 meters by the end of the day.

Tomorrow is the last day. The king's stage is to Finisterre. The end of the earth and that is where my Camino will end after 40 days.

Cost of the day:
Accommodation 20€Breakfast 6€Food on the way 9€Dinner 13€