Atejade: 07.08.2023
Forest, water, vastness;
Water lilies, rocks,
mostly flat land with only a few elevations;
lots of water again, rivers, lakes, puddles, streams.
The lakes often appear like a mirror, crystal clear, then again gentle waves, a roaring river; and again forest;
also birch trees - the latter remind me of train rides through Russia. And also that the best way to experience vastness is often on long journeys and by train.
In general, train travel can surely be counted as one of my hobbies. It has also become a core part of my travels for many years. In Australia, in 2018, I traveled from Sydney to Perth through the Outback for about four days. The Canadian equivalent is Train No. 1, the Canadian: in four days from Toronto to Vancouver, crossing the country.
First, I'm only traveling to Winnipeg, about halfway, because I have more than enough to do there in the near future. Appointments at the university, with cultural institutions, in museums, with (emeritus) professors.
Two days of landscape first, passing through the provinces of Ontario and Manitoba. There is no internet, Wi-Fi on the train, and there is also no cell phone network for large parts of the journey. “Post the photos online later. And look out!” one of the conductors greeted us passengers.
And yes, the landscape captivates me.
Incredibly peaceful wilderness.
Romantic solitude.
Landscape (almost) without any civilization.
Landscape, as if you were listening to relaxation or meditation music from the imagined background.
In large parts, there is
nothing.
But actually, 'nothing' is not the fitting description.
There is nature as far as the eye can see.
Rugged terrain,
Evergreen trees,
Birch trees,
Withered trees,
Tree trunks,
Again birch trees
and trees - which I can't even name yet;
Then a lot of water again.
The best spot is in the Skyliner, a carriage with two floors and the upper one is almost entirely glazed. So you have an even better view. I find it simply relaxing.
The train attendant Jessica is very likable to me. She is enthusiastic about her job; radiates during all announcements; asks if everything is okay. Announcements are rarely made over the speaker system in the three cars, economy class, which I am traveling in. Most of the news is personally delivered here, so you see Jessica more often, she walks through the car again and again, announces something, talks to the passengers.
The train staff works about four to five days, for example, from Toronto to Winnipeg and back with one night on site. After that, they have five to seven days off. The “train days” are demanding, the waitress in the onboard bistro tells me. One shift, there and back, is about 60-65 hours. Although they have breaks during the journey, they can't hide on the train, and there is always something to do.
In addition, the train is often delayed, often by several hours, because since the train route was sold, all freight trains have priority. Sometimes Train No. 1 arrives a whole day late - and everyone inside it, too. Not uncommon, as I'm told. Nobody really complains. When you board the train, you know that and besides, there is a reward: beautiful scenery, right outside the window. Although I won't arrive in Winnipeg late, I still find the time in the Skyliner better than in the cinema.
The train attendants, like the staff in the bistro, love their job. If you take a week off, you have almost three weeks of vacation, in a row. That is pure luxury and worth the hard working shifts: in Canada, employees usually have only about 14 vacation days (including weekends); - on average, a whole two weeks less than in Germany.
Many fellow travelers are not on board for the first time, some take the train through Canada once a year, there and back. That is their vacation, an older gentleman tells me.
The absolute right Cross-Canadian Experience is to have it in one of the sleeper cars. There is also food and drinks included in the price, including alcohol, and it is expensive in Canada. But a place in a sleeper car has an immense price: to Winnipeg, for one night, so two travel days, I would have paid about 750 euros - in the special offer. But then I took the seat, for about 230 euros (with an early bird discount). Expensive, yes - and much more expensive than flying. But this 'vastness experience' and seclusion would have literally flown over me. So absolutely and definitely: through the middle instead of over it!