01/02/23

Equipped with a packed lunch from the host grandma, we go to the bus station early in the morning. The journey to Lake Tagua Tagua passes through lush greenery. Four hours later, all passengers arrive safely, despite chronic overcrowding, radical braking maneuvers, and tumbling luggage. The ferry 'Caupolican' is also very crowded. Many Chileans vacation in their own country in the summer, which is understandable given the varied landscape. Arriving in Puerto Maldonado, I wait at least 30 minutes for the pre-arranged pickup from the park's speedboat. There is no internet reception here. Just as I ask two vendors at the small kiosk for help, a speedboat passes by. The crew waves. I wave back. They point in the opposite direction of the ferry dock. Slightly confused, I walk in the corresponding direction, where Pablo, the park's boatman, comes towards me after a few hundred meters. We greet each other, I don't understand a word, but the park uniform confirms that he is the right person.

Pablo flips the lever. The 200HP Suzuki outboard engine roars and we race over the waves. Fortunately, I am sitting in the covered part of the boat. Three visitors sitting outside get soaked thanks to Pablo's driving style. Brief photo stop at the waterfall, then we dock at a rock. Marco, the park ranger, reaches out his hand to me. He happily bubbles, and I only understand 'cerveza y Bubatz'. Very likeable!

In the base camp called Refugio Notros, a small wooden hut reserved exclusively for rangers and volunteers, there are four of us: Marco, Matis, a quieter, also likeable part-time ranger, and Juliette, a talkative Canadian traveling during her gap year after high school graduation. She has been here for three weeks already. Refugio Notros has a large veranda overlooking Lake Tagua Tagua. In addition to two bunk beds, there is a dining table and a kitchenette. It is heated and cooked with wood.