08.-14.10.2017 מאָנטענעגראָ -> קאָטאָר - פּעטראָוואַק - קאָלאַסין

Montenegro is the first country we are crossing that does not belong to the European Union. Although the application is pending, further EU integrations are currently on hold. However, the official currency for the 600,000 inhabitants is the Euro.

The first surprise awaited us at the border crossing. Spoiled by the uncomplicated entries before, we naturally did not study the entry requirements. To enter Montenegro, you need an "International Green Card" for your car, which you can get from your motor vehicle liability insurance. So, I stopped and took out an extra insurance. However, at the border, they were well-prepared for it. So, I went to the Green Insurance Card - Additional Insurance Office. I was greeted by a cloud of smoke, a sweetish smell of schnapps, and a smiling older gentleman who immediately knew what to do. It was supposed to cost 18 €, but he didn't have change for 20 €. After that, I immediately got my passport back and continued.

The roads became bumpy, and the remaining 30 km took longer than an hour. I would describe the driving skills of the other motorists as creative and bold. With a ferry that was about to leave, we sailed into the Bay of Kotor. One of the oldest natural harbors in the world. Suddenly, everything was beautiful. The mountains, the bay, the old houses, the clean cool air.

The final destination was the Mimoza campsite. When we arrived, it was empty. After the dog barked for 5 minutes, the caretaker came out on the balcony in a bathrobe and mumbled that they had already closed. There was a long silent exchange of glances, and he realized that I had no intention of driving any further. So, he relented and said we could stay for one night, but the water would be cold. I waved it off and said - No problem, water is water - which made him laugh. He asked where we were from and explained everything, but he still had to ask the boss - THE BOSS.
The view was beautiful, directly overlooking the bay and the surrounding mountains. In the morning, "The Boss" came, an old man, dressed and styled tastefully, and only said Money, accompanying it with the internationally recognized cool hand sign. So, I gave him the agreed-upon 10 €, he thanked me, and left on the next bus.

The next stop was Kotor, a flagship of Montenegro. Upon arrival, we had to find a parking space - 3 €/hour, a bargain I thought. We could stay here longer. Unfortunately, three cruise ships had just docked and inundated the town with their cargo. I wanted to move on, somehow arrive. So, we contacted several campsites and finally found one that is open all year round between Budva and Bar. The journey there was not far but very, very exhausting - honking cars, reckless overtaking, uphill and downhill. Upon arriving at "Camping Maslina," the reception was very friendly, and the site had everything you could wish for. 200 m to the beach, a supermarket around the corner, hot water, and many nice places to choose from. The whole place is covered with pomegranate trees.

It quickly became apparent that hiking would not be so easy. There are hardly any trails, and the locals confirm that it is very difficult without local knowledge. After a few meters, you will quickly find wild dogs barking at you, but equipped with a stick, you proceed bravely.

One experience was very moving for me. On one of these hikes, we got lost in chest-high bushes and kept seeing snakes (the largest and most different I have ever seen) hiding quickly. So, every step was carefully taken, but the undergrowth was getting denser. Suddenly, I heard bells and goats. Somewhat anxiously, I called out "Hello???" and received a response. A friendly, grinning shepherd looked out from the bushes. He immediately apologized for his poor English and spoke about how nice it would be if there was only one language for all people and that all people are equal. It was an incredible moment - to come across such a person with such a captivating aura, feeling a bit lost in the bushes. He pointed out that there were many dangerous snakes in the bushes but that it wouldn't be a problem if we continued cautiously. He showed us the way that wasn't really a path, and after another 20 minutes of bushes, we ended up on a construction site. The workers greeted us, confused but friendly. So, this is how hiking in Montenegro goes.

We wanted to experience more of the country and thought about how to do that. Biking was out of the question. Driving inland with the car seemed impossible to me, or at least not reasonable for Käthe with 68 HP and 2.5 tons. Besides, it was expected to snow in the mountains. The solution was supposed to be the "Tito train from Bar to Belgrade." Käthe was allowed to stay for free at the campsite, and at 6 o'clock, we took a taxi to Bar train station. The train ride is said to be one of the most beautiful in Europe, and it was definitely a highlight for me. You look into 1,000 meter deep canyons and go from tunnel to tunnel.

After 3 hours of travel, we got off at Kolasin at 4°C. It is said to be one of the most popular ski resorts in Montenegro, but it seems to be a dilapidated town that has not overcome the decay of Yugoslavia. On the way from the train station to the town, I saw many people greeting me with a toast of schnapps at 10 in the morning. I became aware that I was in a country plagued by history and the present.
After we dropped off the backpack at the accommodation "Sibirska" and the sun came out, the town and the surroundings immediately appeared in a much friendlier light. Since there was no kitchen in the accommodation, we ate at a restaurant. There was very good typical local cuisine at reasonable prices. On the second day, we wanted to go hiking. Right at the beginning, we were followed by a dog who naturally joined us for the next 4 hours - we made friends, shared water and food. However, we never found the selected hiking trail. So, it remained another exploratory tour.

The return journey was extremely entertaining. After the train arrived 2 hours late, we headed back towards the coast. You paid for the ticket with a smoking, staggering older gentleman on the train. I feel transported back in time.
Arriving in Bar, it was not the taxi this time, but the local bus. After waiting in the sun for 2.5 hours and explaining with gestures where we wanted to get off, they asked for an 8 € fare (the taxi was 12 €). I thought to myself, "Ass! He thinks, stupid tourist." Back at the campsite, the joy was great to finally be back home with Käthe.
The next morning, we were heading south.

Conclusion Montenegro: Montenegro is impressive. The landscape, the authenticity, the people. I feel thrown back in time. Montenegro has incredibly much to offer in terms of landscape - coast and the mountain ranges in the inland. I hope that Montenegro does not build the same concrete jungle everywhere as Croatia and Spain have already achieved but instead focuses on ecotourism. In any case, it will take a while for the tourist streams to reach the inland and for the hiking trails to be recognizable. Until then, it remains a hidden gem for me, and I definitely want to come back.