פֿאַרעפֿנטלעכט: 23.07.2021
For weeks, we eagerly anticipated, dreamed and planned our vacation. And as much as it was worth it, we are also looking forward to being back home. Ida was the first to start suffering from homesickness, and although Lars and I enjoyed the vacation, we are glad to be going back tomorrow.
We traveled 2900 km, visited three countries, six cities, and countless beautiful landscapes this time, and yet we have not even come close to experiencing everything. Just like in Scotland, we had to realize that 21 days are far from enough to get to know a country. Slovenia may be small, but it has so much to offer. Much of it doesn't interest a 6-year-old in the slightest. But some things are just right for families. The visits to the seaside were clearly Ida's highlight, so we spent the last day there before heading to Ljubljana.
As a reward for our efforts, the sun finally came out, and the Mediterranean Sea presented itself in all its turquoise splendor. We have never been real beach vacationers, but the day did us incredibly well and was a worthy conclusion to our camping time.
We have packed away the blue palace for its next vacation. I have to admit, we won't miss the sound of the zipper or the nightly walks to the toilet. Not to mention the many creepy crawlies (an ant colony had built a nest under our tent. There was a slight panic when we rolled up the tarp). We dread unpacking our clothes, fearing the army of earwigs that find every tiny crack.
Accordingly, our last two days are quite contrasting: the capital city beckons with soft beds, beauty treatments, and good food. We have also decided to go for a stroll as a family.
Ljubljana is not very big with around 300,000 inhabitants, but it is incredibly beautiful! We are thrilled! We had heard from several sources that the largest city in Slovenia is worth a visit, and we can only confirm it: green, clean, lively, and very individual.
The city center is full of small boutiques (not just the usual big chains), nice restaurants (there are a lot of vegan delicacies to be found), there are street musicians and a good amount of art (including a rain system that especially fascinates the children). The entire city center is car-free, and for those who can no longer walk, there is a small free electric bus called 'Kavalier'. It seems green does work after all!
(50% of the area consists of green spaces, waste is strictly separated, and since 2008, waste has been reduced by 80%. Germany can definitely learn a thing or two from that. It is possible and everyone benefits).
We must not forget about the castle, even though we were somewhat disappointed.
Ljubljana is promoted as the 'dragon city'. So in our imagination, there are dragons all around. And maybe that's true in the various souvenir shops, but we had to search for them in the castle and ultimately only found one.
And that's when Ida just found out that she will be in the 1d, the 'dragon class' at Frauenhof School.
Regardless, let's count snails instead of dragons. There are plenty of them on the castle wall, even though we actually wanted to leave all those creatures behind.
To truly leave behind any camping feeling (a bit difficult in crumpled clothes and Birkenstocks), we visit the nearest nail salon. No chance, everything is fully booked. The next salon also has no appointments available, and even on the third attempt, they tell us not to come back before August. It's the high season. Interesting. We have never heard of that before. We understand that you don't see toenails in winter, but that you have no chance of well-groomed nails in summer is absurd. So, if anyone needs a business idea, Slovenian women urgently need people who can apply arrows and polish.
We are practical: the selection of nail polishes at DM is large, and doing it ourselves means we save a lot of money that we can spend on dinner.
Here, you pay for the ambiance: playing cards with a view of the canal, enjoying local craft beer and fantastic food. A wonderful last evening.
I always like to ask friends and family for the highlights of a trip.
With Slovenia, we really have to think.
1. Perhaps our number one is a little surprising: we liked the Karst region the most. The beautiful landscape with its vastness and tranquility and the friendly people impressed and somehow moved us. Maybe precisely because it is not as touristy as the Soča Valley, which now attracts the crowds. In addition, its central location. From there, you can reach everything quite comfortably and spontaneously decide. There is good local wine, delicious food, and in theory, you can see brown bears (we had considered going on a bear tour with a hunter. Unfortunately, it failed because our Ida toad cannot be still for two hours. Unfortunately, she bursts if she can't get her words out. According to our host, only two out of 200 tourists last year didn't see any bears). Making campfire bread is definitely a highlight as well. Slowing down is something our family desperately needs and definitely doesn't master. It felt good to enjoy the evening sun, tend to the fire, and be rewarded so deliciously. Oh yes, just as a side note: the Karst region also offers perfect roads for cycling.
2. The Soča River and its various tributaries. Wow, what colors! We are grateful that we use digital cameras, otherwise, we would have used quite a few film rolls. In the entire Triglav National Park, the soul (away from the tourist hotspots) can still relax in peace.
3. Ida's joy of life by the water. Although this is not a typically Slovenian highlight, there is so much water here, so we were able to enjoy a lot of children's laughter.
Let's also take a moment to mention the lowlights:
1. The other tourists. Yes, we are also visitors, but we strive for sustainability, respect for the locals and other vacationers. The way the motorcyclists behaved on the roads, the many campers who occupy the streets, and the children who scream and make noise until late at night (nobody has anything against playing and laughing, but why the shouting at 9:30 pm?), it has cost us quite a few nerves. We expected that such things would be more regulated in a national park, but we seem to be naive in that regard (just like on Usedom).
2. Bovec. This town is unnecessary. Incredibly expensive, no culture (because it was built as a planned community in the mid-seventies), and due to its small size, you have to prepare yourself for various battlefields in the high season. Starting with the search for parking, the bakery, and even the line at the mini supermarket. That is really not fun.
3. Trieste on a Saturday. We would never do this again. The cruise ships take away the charm of the port, the city is completely overrun, and the people seem stressed and unfriendly. It's better to visit on a weekday.
Would we come back? Definitely!
Would we do it exactly the same way again? Maybe not entirely. We are exhausted. It's probably also due to Ida's age, but we would try to incorporate more relaxation and avoid the more well-known places (like Bovec and its surroundings). Instead, we would look for spots off the beaten path and enjoy hidden gems like Na Meji.