01/12: Nova Lacerda / Mato Grosso

01/12:

In just one week, I have now reached the third state.
Brazil has 27 states, but I won't be passing through all of them.

And I have crossed into the second time zone. Now, I am only 4 hours away from Western European time.

When you spell Lacerda apart - that is, la cerda - Google Translate knows that it means 'the pig'. However, I couldn't find a direct reference to this after my short walk through this manageable place. There are 3 supermarkets here and a labor law office. Many workshops, two bakeries, and an auto upholsterer. The Adventists are not only active here in Lacerda - I see their churches everywhere. They are enjoying great popularity in Brazil. October 22nd is a holiday dedicated to them.

The start is a challenge. Maybe it will get better tomorrow and I will stay another night in this luxury hotel? The booming pickups with their giant speakers on the roof and the annoying commercials are preventing me from doing so.

Three and a half hours of continuous rain with varying intensity. And a lot of heavy traffic coming towards me - spraying water fountains and a lot of wind.

After just one hour, I am completely wet. The rubber pants don't live up to their promises, the motorcycle jacket gives me about an hour.
It takes at least one night for the lining to dry. But I am consoled by the fact that it's about 25 degrees Celsius, there is very little traffic on my side, and that the Vespa is not afraid of water, it happily purrs along. It seems to be telling me: 'The Andes was not a good idea. This is my world...'

Vilhena is at an elevation of almost 600 meters. Now we're settled at 220 meters. I am surrounded - as far as I can see through my rain-soaked visor - by a mix of green and gray.

I read that Mato Grosso is home to the most Indian reserves, accounting for only 10% (!) of the state's total area. I am riding through one such reserve. Maybe I am just imagining it, but it feels very sparsely or almost uninhabited to me. However, the forest cover here is increasing. This makes driving more challenging because increased caution is required due to broken branches. There are branches in the emergency lane and on my lane in the way. In some sections, the relatively thin branches hang almost diagonally across the entire road. I catch myself pulling my head in and accelerating. Just get me out of here.

This time, I am very grateful for the fuel stop. And I'm hungry, hoping that the cantina is still open. There is still some food left. The fan is running, the doors are open. I go outside first and wring out my t-shirt. Inside, it's a bit warmer due to the cooking vapor.

And I'm benefiting from the fact that free hot and iced coffee is offered everywhere. That's just right for me. I stand not far from the thermos by the window and observe the hustle and bustle at this gas station. The mega truck drivers have lunch, smoke, and drink from cans - it probably won't be beer. They want to know everything about me, but I have enough to deal with myself. I need to warm up again. At least from the inside. A motorcyclist with a trailer manages to reach the gas pump barely - then his vehicle won't start. I'm amazed at how helpful Brazilians are! Someone immediately comes to push the motorcyclist across the entire square, seemingly unaware that it's pouring rain. Unfortunately, it doesn't succeed. Several people join in, trying themselves, and finally one of the truck drivers manages to do it. Proud looks all around. He gets a thumbs-up gesture from me too.

It seems to be getting brighter in the sky and the rain seems to be easing up. But later I realize that it was only a brief moment and it continues unhindered. We are surrounded by gray. There is nothing to be seen in the sky.

Is this what they call the rainy season? Not just heavy rain showers lasting two to three hours like in Puerto Maldonado, but continuous rain?

A shelter!

Around half past three local time, I find a motel and decide: that's enough! The clothes need time to dry.

Lunch didn't last long. On the plaza, I discover a snack bar and order two cheeseburgers.

How architecture changes the landscape! I rarely see rusty corrugated iron roofs anymore. Instead, the roofs are covered with red roof tiles and not only that. They are generally gabled roofs, set on top of each other in one or two steps.

Another novelty for me: Brazilians stop at pedestrian crossings!

Cheeseburgers and beer. Is the weather clearing?