3.1.2018: Back to the West Coast

From Hanmer Springs, I drive back to the West Coast to Greymouth via Lewis Pass.

On the way there, I keep an eye out for the Alpine Nature Walk. But as soon as the next point on my list comes into sight, it becomes clear that I must have missed it. Great. By the way, the next point is the Sluice Box, a short walk on the Lake Daniell Track. I remember that it has something to do with water, but I'm not sure what exactly awaits me there. First, read the signs carefully, because the GPS guides me past the right exit on the highway and wants me to turn into a heap of dirt. And even when the road ends at a parking lot, it still thinks I should continue driving for another 4 km. I park my car in the shade and start walking. After just 5 minutes, I reach a bridge where the Maruia River flows underneath, and it quickly becomes clear why this place made it onto my list: the water is turquoise and crystal clear - you can see all the way to the bottom.

After this speed date, I decide to drive the 18 km back to the St. James Walkway parking lot and at least go for a short hike there, because the alpine vegetation has now given way to dense forest. When I arrive at the parking lot, it turns out that the Alpine Nature Walk also starts here. They could have put up some signs or mentioned it in the brochure. At least: I did find it and start walking happily. The weather is wonderful, as is the view of the mountains, but it's the small mirror tarn including cloud reflection that makes it perfect. The 800 m loop trail was definitely worth the detour. Before continuing, I have a refreshing salad for lunch.

Nelson Creek is next on my list, but I have no idea why. What was there to see again? Well, I'll find out in a few minutes. I end up at a campground - without staff, kitchen, showers, and with a trust system cash box; so only for fully equipped campervans. A suspension bridge, built in 1871 (which is quite old by New Zealand standards), crosses the river, but before that, you have to pass through a small tunnel. Hmm, I think that's why I wrote down Nelson Creek, although not as a top priority. There are several short walking trails where you can stretch your legs. But after a few minutes, I feel like moving on.

Blackball - the New Zealander at the Hanmer Springs Hostel laughed at me when I told him I was going there. What did I want to do there, he asked? It is still a sleepy little town, where rental cars are looked at in disbelief, but in 2019, the starting point of a new Great Walk will be located nearby. Originally, the opening was planned for this year, but the construction has apparently just started, which is why the opening date was postponed. The 'Paparoa Track and Pike29 Memorial Track' is being created in memory of one of New Zealand's worst mining disasters. On November 19, 2010, an explosion killed 29 miners in the Pike River Mine; the youngest was only 17 years old. After nine days and three more explosions, the mine was sealed off and the search for survivors or attempts to recover the bodies were abandoned. Although the brochure from the Department of Conservation says otherwise, some of the bereaved condemn the plan to create a Great Walk leading to the site of the disaster. They say the mine is the grave of their husbands, fathers, and sons, and they do not want hordes of tourists trampling over it every day. I can understand their objections.

Unfortunately, I cannot find the entrance to the new Great Walk. In my Google Maps, the Pike29 Memorial is saved for that, so I decide to visit it instead. At first, I pass the destination, which is hidden by two trucks, and follow the road until I reach a restricted area that almost gives a military impression. Next to the road, 29 wooden planks arranged in a cross shape display the work clothes and ID card of each miner. The sight is quite oppressive. A stop sign is attached to a gate that crosses the road, but it is half open and there is no one in sight. Although it feels like I am doing something forbidden (even though no sign explicitly prohibits passage), I go through it, but after a few meters, it really is the end. The second gate, I suspect it is in close proximity to the mine, is closed and access is only granted by prior arrangement. So I quickly turn around before someone gets the idea to close the first gate and trap me.

On the way back, I finally find the official memorial, which is designed like a small cemetery. There is even a small Christmas tree with stars on which photos of the victims are displayed.

Now, on the one hand, I would have liked to try to find the entrance to the Great Walk again, but it is already 5:00 p.m. and after the melancholy of the past hour, I lack the motivation for it. Luckily, I don't have far to go.

In Greymouth, I manage to secure the last bed in the 6-bed dormitory with my morning call at 9:30 a.m. on the second attempt. Yippie Ya Yeah... At least there are parking spaces and something to pet - a dog and a lucky cat. Originally, I planned to stay in Punakaiki tomorrow. According to my guidebook and the reviews of others, it's supposedly very easy because most people just pass through or take a day trip. But just like in 2013, Punakaiki is fully booked for the next few days, so I extend my stay in Greymouth for another night.

In the evening, I have noodles with sausage and tomato sauce, and I'm the first one in bed at 9:45 p.m. Even though I spent most of the time behind the wheel, the day has really tired me out.