About Juta and Roshka to Khakhmati

After the unpleasant encounter with the Caucasian the day before, I set off alone to Stepantsminda on Monday, July 8, 2019, after breakfast. For the next few days, I have planned a hike towards the east, if possible to Tusheti. So there is time for a coffee and some chocolate in the bus, I finish a travel report and put it online, learn some Russian and charge my battery in the meantime. In the early afternoon, I buy food for the next few days and go back to the tent, where Rango is already waiting impatiently. After packing our stuff, we set off around half past two. It's about 4 km in the Terek Valley to the southwest. In Achkhoti, I take a break for an ice cream before turning southeast along the local side valley. The weather is summery-warm, so I'm not upset when we are offered a ride in a car shortly after leaving the village. We drive quickly through the picturesque mountain valley. It's almost a shame that I'm not hiking here. Past small villages and along lush flowering meadows, we drive up to Juta. We get off in the village and immediately start the further ascent into the mountains. At around 2400 m, we find a nice spot to camp and I set up our camp. After rinsing and hanging out my clothes, I dare to take a dip in the ice-cold water. Only for a very short time, of course. Then we retreat under the tarp after a small dinner.

There is no rush on Tuesday morning. The day before, when crossing a stream, I lost my balance for a moment and ended up with both feet in the water. So I give my shoes a little more time in the sun to dry. After breakfast, I walk down the mountain to a small café. Unfortunately, it is still closed, so I will have to go without coffee for the day. But I can locate and seal a hole in my air mattress in the nearby mountain lake. Then it's time to pack the backpack, wet shoes or not. We continue to climb in the mountains around noon. Two and a half hours later, we have covered the 4 km distance up to about 3200 meters of altitude. The view is limited, the clouds hang low in the mountains. So we immediately start the descent, which is very steep and strenuous. Despite some breaks, I am exhausted when we reach the Abudelauri Mountain Lakes at around 2600 m. Since I consumed all my hiking cookies during the morning repair work, I don't have any snacks readily available and decide to set up the tent by the lake after 8 km. Then I find some bread in the depths of my backpack, which satisfies my hunger, before I prepare our camp for the evening. After dinner, I'm already in bed by half past six, ready to sleep.

On Wednesday, July 10, 2019, I am ready to march down to Roshka with Rango at around 10:20 am. One hour later, we pass the village at an altitude of about 2000 m. I decide against a detour there, it seems a bit too early for a coffee break. So we continue along a small road downhill. We pass individual farms that could hardly be more remote or idyllic. The surrounding landscape is a dream. Around quarter past one, after 12 km, we reach the 'main road' at around 1600 m in the valley. We continue up the valley towards the village of Gudani. I hope to find a grocery store and a coffee there. Along the way, the fat one repeatedly vomits out some bologna slices, he must have cleaned out a sausage counter somewhere. We turn off the 'main road' shortly before 2 pm and head north, the village is a few meters above the valley bottom. Some of the stone houses are in good condition, and after the first contact with a local, I am quite confident that I can solve my food problem here. So we continue up the village, but we don't find any market or anything similar. The second local I talk to gives me little consolation, the nearest market is about 10 km down the valley. That's not very helpful, considering that's where I came from. So for now, we go back down to the village. Just before leaving the village, I start a conversation with a few ordinary tourists, as it would turn out later, Olaf with his wife and 3 daughters from Berlin. They give me the leftovers from their day trip (3 boiled eggs and a piece of cheese), while Olaf and his wife discuss how they can best help me. They decide to drive me to the store. So a short time later, I can solve my food problem for now, and there is also coffee. Fantastic, the five of them save my day. Then we drive back to Gudani together. In the car, it becomes apparent how bad the road conditions actually are, walking was fine. The rental car seems to have lost some splash protection before, and its engine is pushed to its limits. At the junction to the village, I get out with the fat one, put the groceries in my backpack, and hike a bit further up the valley. Just like all day, in sunny weather. Above the settlement of Khakhmati, there is an idyllic side valley with a drinking water source. It's around five o'clock, and we have already covered 20 km excluding the drive. Time to set up camp. After the evening routine, it's time to go to bed. But we don't immediately find peace and quiet. First, two horses take down my hanging laundry, and later, some cows take an interest in our shelter. But slowly, calmness sets in, and the day finds its well-deserved end.