Living and dining with Natalia

Wardsia is a World Heritage Site and feels like the end of the world. The monastery complex from the 12th century consists of caves carved into a 500 m high wall. The caves were connected to each other by low corridors and steep stairs. During its heyday, several thousand monks lived here. In addition, the caves were a refuge for the population of the surrounding area. The complex could accommodate 50,000 people.

Today you can see large holes in the rock wall that give a glimpse into the rooms. At the time of construction, only windows were usually visible. Earthquakes and rock falls have essentially robbed the cave city of its entire facade. But you can still climb around in some of the corridors and stairs with your head down. Very funny! And there are frescoes in the church, not the best, but still.

Although it is a World Heritage Site, until recently there were hardly any opportunities to stay here comfortably. In the meantime, there is an overpriced resort and various guesthouses, such as Natalia's, where we ended up. Landing here was not that easy: In Pia, the name of the village, the asphalt ends on the streets. There are some signposts, but too few, so you slide along steep gravel roads between chickens, cows, dogs, and stunned people until you finally land at Natalia's and in her courtyard.

The pretty, delicate redhead hears us coming immediately and opens the gate. We can choose our room, we are the only guests. The shared bathroom can be reached via the veranda. Everything is sparkling clean. In addition to Natalia, her husband, her young son, (temporarily) a little nephew, a red-haired cocker spaniel with lots of curls on his ears, a cheeky cat, and a mom (of Natalia or her husband?) also live in the courtyard.

We came here because we read that Natalia is a good cook. And yes, it is true: there is cheese, tomatoes, cucumbers, cheese, cream, Khinkali (small pasta bags with cheese filling on the first evening, big ones with meat filling on the second), Khachapuri (flatbread filled with cheese), a different delicious eggplant salad on both evenings, wonderful broccoli with cream, enchanting homemade rose jam for tea. For breakfast, plum jam and melon in syrup. I'm sure I forgot some things. Yes, the wine of course, yesterday red 'Uhudler', today one that tasted strongly of cinnamon (another red wine? #A great day).

Natalia doesn't speak English, but she sits with us at the table and 'chats' - and as simple as everything is here, she still has her phone in her hand the whole time and keeps an eye on her Facebook account just like the (young) people with us.