Riobamba, Ecuador

The bike search finally comes to an end and I am proud owner of an old, pink-colored women's bike (which is a little too small for me). This gem is the best I could find and I really searched in every bicicleteria in the city.

Now it's just a matter of building saddlebags. The old oil containers for them are quickly found. After a few hours of work, my two bright yellow, waterproof, 20-liter park systems are ready.

The first day on the bike is still quite comfortable. After about 35 km, we find our first sleeping place by a river as darkness falls. Our super cool plastic sheet tent is set up and with a slight pain in the ass and rain, I fall asleep quickly.

Accompanied by rain, thick fog and intense heat, the next few days pass - always up and down. My pace is quite slow, I struggle up every hill and Damian has to wait for me for ages. He is really fit as he has been cycling for 7 months.

Maybe the idea of starting a bike tour in the middle of the Ecuadorian mountains was a bit crazy, especially when I am so unfit and unprepared. I am really pushing my limits and wondering why I am doing this to myself.

We spend New Year's Eve in Riobamba. Here, it is customary for men to dress up as women and dance 'sexy' on the street. They stop all cars, sometimes rip open the driver's door, jump into the car and ask for some money for their dance performances - this is called 'viudas locas'. And apparently, this is a way to atone for sins of the past year.

Furthermore, at midnight, giant papier-mâché figures are burned in the streets. And of course, there are plenty of fireworks and firecrackers that are ignited amidst the crowd. The whole thing reminds me of a mix between carnival and street gang war! Accompanied by a bottle of rum (cheap rum tastes like shit here too and causes headaches), we watch the spectacle and let ourselves drift into the new year.