Neuseeland - Die Nordinsel
Neuseeland - Die Nordinsel
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9.1.20 Muriwai Beach, Gannet Colony and from the West to the East Coast

ተሓቲሙ: 15.01.2020

I can have breakfast in front of my camper in glorious sunshine and leave shortly before 10 o'clock. During breakfast, I checked the weather reports for the alternative destinations for the day, which are either Muriwai or Piha on the west coast or Orewa or Leigh on the east coast. The forecast is about the same for both coasts - it's supposed to get sunnier in the afternoon, but there is still expected to be plenty of wind from the cold southwest on the west coast. Well, Piha would be over 200km anyway, which is actually too much for me today. But I want to stay somewhere near Auckland for the next 3 nights and just be at the beach before my return flight.

Worth seeing: A road without a curve!
Worth seeing: A road without a curve!


Butcher shop with unique decor
Butcher shop with unique decor

I follow Highway 12 south. There is little traffic, and the road is mostly straight for now. After Dargaville, the road turns east inland and runs alongside the Wairoa River for some time before crossing to the other side of the country almost completely, and I drive south on SH1 for 20km at Brynderwyn before turning west on a beautiful road, SH16.

Ah, how beautiful is New Zealand
Ah, how beautiful is New Zealand
Beekeeper - often seen
Beekeeper - often seen

Beautiful landscape, endless expanse, hills, sheep, and sometimes in the distance, the blue of the Kaipara Harbour, an inlet of the Tasman Sea.

Kaipara Harbour

SH16 is a winding road where you can expect an average speed of 50km/h with a camper, but it's an incredibly rewarding route. Somewhere in the middle of nowhere, someone has placed giant artworks on a slope and its summit. This is Gibbs Farm, a private sculpture park that can only be visited by appointment and rarely at all. The artworks must be gigantic because they are still recognizably huge from a distance of around 400-500m. When zoomed in, alpacas can be seen grazing there.

Even from a distance still gigantic: Sculpture Gibbs Farm
Even from a distance still gigantic: Sculpture Gibbs Farm
Giant: Sculpture of Gibbs Farm in some distance
Giant: Sculpture of Gibbs Farm in some distance
Sculpture / Gibbs Farm
Sculpture / Gibbs Farm
On the way on SH16

After refueling in Helensville shortly after noon, I checked the weather again and called the campground in Orewa on the east coast to make a reservation for 3 nights. It's hard to digest that they charge me the price for 2 people per night here, which is $46 per night, but I don't feel like experimenting anymore and I don't want to spend the night on a field before my return flight.

Accordingly relaxed, I approach the afternoon and take the winding country road down to Muriwai, a small coastal town on the Tasman Sea. The wind is strong as I make a short stop above the gigantic bay and eat a yogurt. This is only possible in the car. Outside, you would blow away. The view, this bay, the surf - breathtaking and for me, after Cape Palliser and the Blue Springs in Putaruru, the highlight of this trip.

Lunch protected from the storm in the car overlooking the bay of Muriwai
Lunch protected from the storm in the car overlooking the bay of Muriwai
Murwai
Murwai
Murwai
Murwai
Muriwai Beach is located at the end of a 50km long beach. Further south, there is a wild and beautiful cliff coast. The beach, which is dark again here, is hardly visited. No wonder with this wind - I'm now walking around with a hat. It may be 20 degrees, but with this icy wind, it's really only suitable for long pants and a fleece jacket.
In summer with 2 jackets, a scarf, and a hat
Muriwai
Muriwai

Muriwai

Muriwai
Murwai
Murwai

The surf is insane, the waves endlessly long, and one or two brave kite surfers can be seen. The bay watch has hoisted the yellow-red flag.

Muriwai
Muriwai


Murwai
Murwai
Muriwai
Muriwai


That's why it's so stormy here!

On three rocks, which can be reached via a small trail, more than 1,200 pairs of gannets nest in the Takapu Refuge gannet colony. They can be found here from August, and even now, there are still many young birds being fed by their parents.


Muriwai gannet colony
Muriwai gannet colony

Others are already boldly circling in the air. It's incredible with what speed and curves these animals are moving here.

Muriwai gannet colony
Muriwai gannet colony
Muriwai gannet colony
Muriwai gannet colony


Muriwai gannet colony
Muriwai gannet colony
Muriwai gannet colony
Muriwai gannet colony
Muriwai gannet colony
Muriwai gannet colony

The squawking is incredible, but so is the wind, so I reluctantly start walking east at some point after 4 p.m., where it is less windy (and cold). But before I do, I enjoy a coffee next to my camper overlooking one of the bays of Muriwai.

Who was that? ;-)
The last view of Muriwai Bay - it's time to head east!

I have to cross New Zealand from west to east again. What sounds like a multi-day expedition is only about 40km here, and I'm in Orewa at the campground at 5:10 p.m. I have to decline the pitch offered here because the highway runs along one side of the campground, and I should stand there. Miraculously, there is another space in the second row from the beach - however, I have to move it 5 meters to the left onto the neighboring pitch tomorrow, but that's no problem with the camper. Of course, someone who stands here with awnings and all the fuss would not find it so great. So I'm paying almost $140 for 3 nights here (always keeping in mind that the camper costs $125 per night (both in 65% = euros)), so that it doesn't give the impression that I'm stingy. For the $46 I have to pay here per day for 2 people, I get an area of about 8x7 m. Nothing else.

Behind the tree - that's me :-D

But I'm happy about the beach and the small promenade that runs between the campsite and the Pacific Ocean. Before I put a can in the pot and heat it up, I take a walk on the beach.

less than 50 meters behind my camper is the beach

The campsite is full and tight, but I really don't care when I think that tomorrow I'll be sitting on a huge beach here. Auckland is only 30km away, the airport 55km. So I still have relaxed time until I return the camper on Sunday. At 8:30 p.m., I'm still typing this text - by now, also in two jackets and sweatpants, and the sandals have been replaced by sneakers. As soon as I have this online, I'll be in the camper. That's for sure...

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