Stairway 2 the Sea - Lamu Island

Stairways Through the Dunes: A Journey to the Sea in Shela, Lamu

Hidden away on the northern coast of Kenya, Shela Village on Lamu Island is a place where time seems to stand still. With its whitewashed houses, ancient Swahili culture, and winding sandy streets, Shela feels like stepping into a dream. But one of the most captivating experiences this coastal village offers is the journey down the stairways through its towering sand dunes, leading you straight to the warm embrace of the Indian Ocean.

These stairways, carved through the undulating golden dunes, are more than just a path to the beach—they are a bridge between the raw beauty of nature and the timeless rhythm of the sea.

Discovering the Dunes of Shela

The dunes of Shela rise like soft golden mountains behind the village, a striking contrast to the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean. Walking through Shela’s narrow streets, I first glimpsed the dunes as they seemed to roll out from the village and disappear into the horizon. These towering mounds of sand have stood for centuries, sculpted by the wind, and they remain an iconic part of Lamu’s landscape.

I set out on my journey early in the morning, just as the first light of the day began to stretch across the sky. The heat of the midday sun can be intense in Shela, so starting early allows for a peaceful and cooler exploration of the dunes. The path to the sea begins with a gentle climb, following a series of stone steps that weave through the dunes like an ancient thread linking the village to the ocean beyond.

The Stairways Through the Dunes

The stairway that I followed wasn’t an obvious man-made structure at first—it felt as if it naturally belonged to the landscape, blending into the golden sands and winding its way down towards the sea. The steps were weathered and uneven, carved out of coral stone and shifting sands, a testament to the centuries of footsteps that had passed over them. Each step brought me higher into the dunes, offering sweeping views of Shela village behind me and the ocean waiting ahead.

The climb was peaceful, with only the sound of the wind brushing over the dunes and the occasional distant call of seabirds. The dunes themselves were magnificent—massive, towering hills of sand that seemed to go on forever, their surfaces rippled by the wind. As I ascended, I could feel the history beneath my feet. The people of Shela, traders, and sailors from across the Indian Ocean, had long used these dunes as passageways to the sea. It felt as though I was walking in their footsteps, connected to the island’s past.

Reaching the highest point of the stairway, I paused to take in the view. Below me, the Indian Ocean shimmered under the morning sun, its waters a striking blend of blues and greens. The beach stretched out in both directions, empty and pristine, with the soft dunes cascading down toward the shore. The descent from here was a gradual one, the stone steps giving way to soft sand as the dunes slowly merged with the beach.

A Connection to the Ocean

The stairway eventually led me to the base of the dunes, where the last few steps disappeared into the soft white sand of the beach. I stood there for a moment, feeling the cool breeze coming off the ocean and listening to the rhythmic crashing of the waves. It was a surreal experience—one moment, I had been deep within the dunes, and the next, I was standing at the edge of the Indian Ocean, the vast expanse of water stretching out before me.

The contrast between the quiet, towering dunes and the wide-open sea was striking. Behind me, the sand dunes rose like sentinels, protecting the village and offering a sense of solitude. In front of me, the ocean beckoned, its waters calm and inviting. The beach was nearly empty, with only a few fishermen in the distance preparing their dhows for the day’s catch.

Wading into the water, I felt the coolness of the ocean mix with the warmth of the sand beneath my feet. The gentle waves lapped against my legs as I ventured further into the sea, its waters clear and tranquil. Looking back toward the dunes, I could just make out the stairway I had descended, now partially hidden by the shifting sands. It felt as though I had discovered a secret passageway, one that led me from the heart of the island directly to the sea.

The Magic of Shela’s Dunes

The beauty of the dunes lies not only in their raw, natural majesty but also in the way they connect the village to the ocean. These stairways through the dunes are not just paths—they are a journey through time, a reminder of Shela’s deep connection to the sea. For centuries, the people of this island have walked these steps, from the fishermen setting out on their dhows to the traders who once traveled these same shores.

As the sun began to rise higher in the sky, the dunes took on a different hue, glowing golden under the morning light. The shadows cast by the dunes shifted and changed, creating a landscape that felt both ancient and ever-changing. Sitting on the shore, with the stairway through the dunes behind me and the endless ocean in front of me, I felt a profound sense of peace. The simplicity of the scene—the sand, the sea, and the sky—was all-encompassing.

A Stairway to Serenity

Exploring the stairways through the dunes of Shela is more than just a walk to the beach—it’s a journey that connects you to the heart of this island. The dunes, sculpted by wind and time, are a reminder of the beauty and power of nature. And the stairways themselves, worn and weathered, carry the stories of those who have walked them before.

In Shela, life moves at its own pace, shaped by the rhythm of the ocean and the shifting sands of the dunes. These stairways offer a path not just to the sea, but to a deeper connection with the land and the people who call this place home. For travelers seeking a quiet, reflective escape, Shela’s dunes and the stairways that lead through them provide an unforgettable experience—a reminder that sometimes, the most beautiful destinations are the ones found at the end of a simple, sandy stairway.