Der lehmbraun-tropfende Endspurt auf dem AVML

Now the final sprint. It was only one day's stage from Levanto to La Spezia, the end of the AVML. So, with the improvement in weather forecasted, I set off on this stage. First, I pedaled out of the bay hole on the provincial road. Then it was supposed to continue over ridges and grades above the Cinque Terre. A dark gray cloud grumbled ominously ahead, slowly moving towards La Spezia.

So, there was no long-awaited radiant sunshine, but at least the terrain was finally as I had wished for much earlier on the AVML - beautiful, flowy cross-country trails that were mostly rideable. Consequently, I made surprisingly good progress and also had fun. It could be a really nice day. However, I was somewhat surprised that I hardly noticed anything about the Cinque Terre, most of the time it was through dense forest with little to no view. Fortunately, I had already ticked off the sightseeing aspect.

As La Spezia came into view in the distance, I was already looking forward to the final descent trail, which would surely be enjoyable and speedy. But I didn't count on this grumbling cloud in front of me. It made sure that this beautifully laid-out trail was completely soaked when I arrived. It was a slippery and sliding descent that I mostly had to tackle by pushing. When a wider, transverse path appeared halfway along the route, I had had enough and decided to take the supposed shortcut to the next village. However, after a short while, the path turned into an almost impassable mud swamp. The sticky clay stuck to my tires like tough play dough, and then, thanks to centrifugal forces, distributed itself in every crevice of my wheels. To make matters worse, I gradually turned into a mud monster, brown and sulking. If that wasn't enough, the path then led down to the village via steep, moistened cobblestone steps. Even on foot, while balancing my bike, it was a slippery ordeal. Cursing loudly, I eventually stumbled into the village. That's not how I had imagined my final and supposedly triumphant arrival in La Spezia.

It took a while for me to realize - I had actually made it. The AVML was conquered and I had reached the end of my bikepacking adventure. However, there were still two weeks left of my sabbatical. And since I had made it so far in the south under my own power, I should definitely make the most of it. So, I quickly grabbed the next regional train to Pisa. From there, I wanted to set my sights on the next destination - Elba. By the way, it still surprises me that they actually let me and my bike onto the train in the muddy, dripping condition we were in.