ที่ตีพิมพ์: 25.09.2018
The morning started so calmly - awakened by the pattering of rain on the skylight, the bathrooms were still empty and clean, and the coffee didn't taste too bad. I was just about to sit down and plan my day when a flyer caught my eye: Shuttle bus to Whangarei Heads with a hike.
Originally, I wanted to go to Whangarei Heads, but without a car, it was difficult. But now there was a shuttle bus...with a hike...that sounded quite tempting.
So, I quickly looked at the website. For $40, the bus takes you to the coast, and then you can choose from various hiking tracks. I was torn - $40 is quite a lot, but it might be my only chance to get there.
The bus would leave at 9 o'clock, and the online booking closes an hour before. It was 8:55. What followed was a spontaneous decision. Of course, I quickly reserved a spot; not thinking too much about the money, instead seizing the opportunity. And I had a plan for the day. Perfect.
What was the weather like today? Clouds and wind, interspersed with sunshine and occasional showers. Not very enticing for a day at the beach, but enough for hiking.
I was the only one on the shuttle bus, so I probably ruined the bus driver's morning. On the bus, I learned more about what I had actually booked. I was going to do the Te Whare Track in Whangarei Heads: the most challenging one of them all. The hiking track leads through the Bream Head Scenic Reserve, over Mount Lion (395m) and Te Whara (476m). I love challenges, and I was promised fabulous views of both coastlines, in short: I was excited. The signs indicated a duration of about five hours, but in the end, it only took me three.
The path immediately ascended steeply from the parking lot, with about 20 minutes of stairs. After that, I was warmed up... But there were already beautiful views of the east coast and Smugglers Bay.
After about 300 meters of elevation gain, the path transitioned from stairs to mud, which was not necessarily an improvement. It required full concentration to not slip (I managed to keep my jeans reasonably clean again).
After half an hour, I had already climbed Mount Lion. The view was...okay. But that wasn't the real highlight yet.
A short break, and then I continued. I stayed at about the same elevation, with short ascents and descents. The path became really great now, as it led right through the bush, the native New Zealand forest. I fought my way forward over tree roots, rocks, and through mud. Sometimes it was really difficult to find the path. I have to say that this section was the most fun.
Around 11 o'clock, I reached a junction with another trail that led to the coast. Since I had plenty of time (and apparently too much energy), I took that too. It turned out to be a stupid idea, as I realized when I had covered about half of the elevation gain - I had to walk all the way back up...
But now that I had come so far, I decided to finish it. There was also a DOC hiking hut on the coast, but it seemed like no one had stayed there for a long time. The beach was beautiful, but was it worth the 400 meters of elevation gain...?
So, I went back up, this time with music. Once back at the junction, I took off all my jackets - I was sweating buckets! With music in my ears, I continued. The path became more and more rustic, but my joy of hiking slowly diminished, for a different reason: my right hiking boot didn't get along well with my leg, and the shaft kept pushing against my leg with every movement. The last two hours of this hike were torture...
If possible, I tried to ignore the pain and enjoy the path, because it was really amazing. I was now approaching Te Whara, and it was uphill again. I fought my way up the last meters through a mix of stairs and forest path. The actual attraction, however, was not the summit but Bream Head - a rock formation behind Te Whara, a few meters higher, offering a 360-degree view of Whangarei Heads and the ocean.
What comes next probably falls into the category of things my mother would rather find out later. Signs had already warned me that there was no paved path to the rock. I slowly approached the rock through the underbrush. And then the climbing began. I left my bag down below and only put my phone in my pocket (proof photo!). Somehow, I pulled myself up, which was quite exciting for me. I had fun.
But I didn't stay up there for long because it was windy. Really windy. That's when I got a little scared. So, I quickly took some photos and then laboriously made my way back down.
I have to correct myself: that was actually the most fun.
But just as I reached the bottom again, it started to rain. Sigh. So, I began the descent, as I had to almost go back down the 476 meters.
What I had noticed earlier: ascents are not as bad as descents from a mountain, especially when you can hardly put weight on one leg and the path is muddy. The descent from Te Whara was truly no longer enjoyable, but I had to grit my teeth and go through it.
Unfortunately, the forest eventually ended, and the path led over hills. So, I was exposed to that cold, bone-chilling wind. On top of that, there was rain, but it was coming from the side rather than from above.
Cursing, I finally reached the end of the hiking trail, the Ocean Beach parking lot, after just under an hour, including the detour to the coast (about 45 minutes). I still don't know if that was a good or bad sign...
I spent the remaining time alternating between the beach and the restroom, depending on whether it was raining or not. I also have to admit that my legs were shaking, and I was exhausted. When the shuttle bus picked me up, I almost fell into the seat.
The walk from the parking lot to the hostel was painful, and the first thing I did was throw myself into bed. Now I was starting to feel the exhaustion. But at least I got sympathy from my mother, which always cheers me up.
Today, I finally had time to explore this huge supermarket a bit more. I finally found shower gel, but the selection of hair care products was still much larger. I think New Zealanders just prefer shampoo and conditioner more.
As a reward, I treated myself to fresh fruit today: banana, apple, kiwi, and mandarins, mixed with a handful of pears. There was also a pear lurking in the free food compartment, so I got that for free.
In the evening, not much will happen anymore. Today, I don't feel like socializing either. Even laughing is quite exhausting for me... I would say: Netflix and chill, but I don't have a TV or Netflix. So, it will probably just be chilling. Staying, accompanied by a good book.
Tomorrow, I have the last few hours in Whangarei, and then I'm heading back to my favorite city. I already have plans for the morning, but maybe I'll be spontaneous again...