Chapter VIII - Skitouring in the Fiordland

In the early evening, we set off again after just over a week in Queenstown, this time towards Fiordland. We have about 3 hours of driving ahead of us.

 

Originally, the plan was to conquer the Mitre Peak in Milford Sound, the most famous mountain peak in New Zealand. Otherwise, we want to do some sightseeing there and also explore the town of Te Anau. When we arrive at our spot in the evening, just before the Homer Tunnel, where we will spend the night, which is quite far into the Fiordland, we can hardly believe our eyes.

Not only do we immediately notice the full moon in a starry night sky, but also the snow-white mountain peaks around us. Like a 360° panorama, they rise up around us. Nobody really expected snow here anymore, and each of us has more or less finished the ski season. We quickly decide that we want to take our entire ski equipment on the planned hike to Gertrude Saddle and try to ride a line from there. That same evening, we prepare everything and are ready for a great adventure.

From the beginning, it is clear that we have to start very early with the ascent. Because even up there, spring-like conditions prevail already, and we have only a limited time window where the snow is reasonably safe before it becomes soft and starts to slide. That's why we set off early in the morning with a fully packed backpack and our ski equipment. The more we can see the surrounding mountains with the first rays of the sun, the greater our anticipation becomes and our motivation increases with every step. Even from the lower altitudes, the panorama is simply impressive and hard to describe - it's best to see for yourself in the photos.

We start from the parking lot a few meters along a riverbank and finally through a small jungle-like area before we reach the foot of the mountains. We follow the river through the valley, where the real ascent slowly begins. The river also gradually turns into a kind of waterfall and we have to start climbing and being extremely careful because it is very slippery in some places. We also have to cross the river, there are no bridges here. There is no really prepared hiking trail, only markings that can be used for orientation. Ultimately, you have to find the best way yourself between the markers. For help and navigation, we have a compass and offline maps on our phones.

After about 2.5 hours, we reach the first snow fields, where we now have to exchange our hiking boots for ski boots and unpack the skis. The snow fields in their still frozen state on the shady side are not always easy to cross, especially if it is also steep and there are several meters down on the other side. But luckily, we find a feasible way and work well together as a team, which makes our ascent much faster and easier. After another 2 hours, we reach Black Lake, which is completely frozen and surrounded by a lot of snow. Our path leads along the side of the lake and then begins to rise again sharply. Now we are in the final section before reaching the Saddle. There we have to persevere and conserve our strength for the descent at the same time. Unfortunately, the snow in this section is already very soft because it has been exposed to the sun for several hours. When we reach Gertrude Saddle, we are almost blown away by the wind, but the view is unique. From there, you can admire the surrounding white, and partly unique rock formations, and between them, you have a clear view of Milford Sound with Mitre Peak. You can enjoy the place where thousands of people are probably at this moment in peace from up here. The view from up here is almost better than from a helicopter, simply impressive.

From the viewpoint, we decide to continue towards Barrier Knob. It gets steep again and by now we have reached an altitude where there is still a lot of snow. However, halfway there, we have to turn around. With the advancing time and the increasing midday heat, the snow connections below us slowly start to loosen and the snow becomes too slushy. Since we have already reached our goal with Gertrude Saddle, the decision is not really difficult for us, and we want to get back down in the safe time window before the snow becomes slushy and sticky.

One by one, we start our line. It is a very special feeling and the view is simply overwhelming, no matter where you look. Along the saddle, you can see Milford Sound on the right side and on the left side, we drop into our descent back into the valley. After a long descent with jumps and rocks, we pass Black Lake again, where we gather strength once again for the final section of our line. This part is flatter and easier to ski again, which is definitely fun in this slushy snow. When we reach the snowline, we have to take off our skis again and continue on foot, back through the valley and the jungle, to the parking lot. In the valley, we are surprised by a loud bang, and seconds later, an avalanche shoots down over the rocks in front of us. Fortunately, we are already down from the mountain and can now watch the spectacle from a safe distance as one avalanche after another comes shooting down over the rocks. That is the end of an incredible day and a great ski tour that I will not forget anytime soon.